Happy Easter all!
I’ve begun attaching the second run of tracks. 
Mike
7 Likes
The tracks on both sides are not set. I’m working on the OVM now. I need to see about getting some single-wing wing nuts for the hatches as the Sovereign kit includes nothing for them. I keep finding little bits of details that the kit misses - like the lifting hooks on each side at the front of the superstructure. The barrel will be mounted soon, too.
Mike
7 Likes
I use sewing thread (usually black but browns or tans would work depending on the weathering).
Pierce the guide horns on either side of the axle of the support roller.
Thread goes through the guide horn, under the axle, through the other guide horn, tie a knot with the loose ends under the axle, add a small dab of CA to lock the knot.
The pull of the thread will pull the track down on either side of the support roller, causing the track to sag down,
3 Likes
Due to foreseen and unforeseen health things and major exterior yard updates, there has been an unfortunate delay in the StuG III. However, I did sit at the bench for a few minutes with a caliper to get the drill bit size needed for the T-pins and start drilling one of the holes with a small hand drill. That was kind of rough on the hands.
I have seen, many times, in the past the Tamiya Handy Drill. I’ve always thought that was more toy than tool. I looked at a couple of reviews and decided (because I had an Amazon gift card) that I’d get one. I do have a variable-speed Dremel that I can chuck a #60 bit into, but it’s awkward trying to get the angle steady. I also have a 12V Milwaukee drill, but light as it is, it’s also awkward. Hence the Tamiya drill.
It’ll arrive tomorrow so I’ll “build” it and give it a shot. And for those that may have thought about one, but felt the same (toy not tool), I’ll let you know how it went.
Mike
4 Likes
As mentioned before, the Tamiya Handy Drill arrived today.
Just a few pictures:
The only confusing piece was the bottom “clip” for the batteries. It took a bit trying to figure out just where that little piece of metal fit in. Anyhow, it finally made some sense.
What I really like is that the RPMs are low.
Mike
3 Likes
Please check out my questions at the end. Thank you! 
Both sides of the track’s sag are now done and I’ve added the barrel.
After all of the handling, of course I knocked off a couple of small pieces I need to put on. I also have some one-wing wingnuts for the hull hatches. I need to add the two lifting hooks to the side plates (and possibly to the rear of the superstructure - because just the two at the front would make lifting that very awkward [I’ll need to research that]). Annnnnd, I’m currently working on the pioneer tools.
These “Universal Clamps” should be just about perfect for the tools - no folding and all the hassle of the PE type. The necessary clamps will get primed and painted dunkelgrau. Before attaching the tools/clamp, I’ll need to give the upper hull another light coat of DG to cover any shine from the CA glue. There’s a LITHOCRAFT set consisting of a “tool box” and jack block coming for the one side’s fender.
QUESTIONS
Fire Extinguisher - were most of the German armor’s fire extinguishers red? Flat red?
Bore Brush - Were the handles generally wood or metal? If metal, would they have been dark gray? I assume the actual brush would have a canvas cover, correct (that looks like what the Sovereign part was molded as)?
I believe on the top of the hull is where the “periscope” would come out. As shown on the model, would this be a canvas cover?
Many, many thanks for your input!
Mike
6 Likes
Red if one of the interior extinguishers. Those carried on the hull outside usually matched the base color of the tank so enemies wouldn’t see a red thing moving through the trees.
I see a lot of wooden poles, but also some metal. I generally paint mine as wood. The cover is indeed canvas.
Yes, the periscope cover is canvas also.
6 Likes
Awesome! Thank you!
Mike
1 Like
I have one of those, use it all the time! The low RPMs are great for working in plastic.
Ken
2 Likes
My wife and I have been busy at the house, so not too much on the StuG.
I did get some bench time and added the single-wing wingnuts to the upper hull hatches and made the two grab handles. I’ll make the lifting hooks before long. I also put two pieces that popped off when I was doing the tracks.
Mike
9 Likes
Some touch up paint on the body (covering the things I added).
Next up is to match the clamps (by size) to the OVM and get their placements set.
I think, before I do a clear for the decals, I’m going to give the StuG a bit of a Vallejo or Mig Dunkel Grau for some color variation.
Mike
6 Likes
The vehicle’s OVM is done. I changed out the “rivets” I used for the spare road wheels to “nut and bolt ends.”
Soon, I’ll start removing the 3D clamps from their sprue points and attach them (and OVM) to the fender skirts. Slow and steady. (ha, sure)
Mike
7 Likes
A little filter work using the airbrush. Once completely dry, I can remove a bit on the flat surfaces. I did a little tan filter by brush and it left some “dirt” around raised edges - hoping the AB will allow me to get the same effect.
I’m getting the tow cable set up too.
Then OVM gets attached followed (maybe) by a second AB filter coat.
Mike
5 Likes
I’ve started on the decals and OVM (yep, still have a 3/4-full bottle of Future from all those years ago!). OVM on the front has not yet been attached. Based on drawings/schematics, the OVM (provided and sourced elsewhere) just do not fit where they’re supposed to go. I am using artistic license in the placement of a couple of the pieces such as the crowbar [1] and S-hooks [1]. The 3D printed clasps are super nice though quite fragile.
The upper hull’s dusting is done - turns out using a hairy-stick instead of an airbrush is better (when using a filter as a pigment). The tan dusting is okay though maybe not the best color(?). (I would like your opinion, please) More than likely, I’ll use the same process for the running gear areas along with adding some ‘shine’ to areas of the tracks and sprockets/idlers.
Someday I may manage to work up the courage to do a muddy/clumpy dirty on a tank.
I still need to reattach the rear mount for the tow hook then drape the cable over the fender/OVM and attach to the front hook. My homemade hook pins made from round brass stock worked out quite well.
Thank you very much for watching this build progress.
Mike
5 Likes
I am not familiar with the dust/dirt where this vehicle is working, but I think the dust is a little too dark. Judging from my car on dirt section roads I think the after portion of the superstructure deserves some dust as well. Why the dark patches around the decals? or is that still in progress
2 Likes
Very nice work so far, well done
The dust effects look natural and well applied, especially on the upper hull. One thing I noticed is some light silvering, or at least the decals don’t seem fully integrated into the dust layer yet. A light filter, additional dust over the markings, or a final flat coat could help blend them in better.
Overall, you’re at a great stage — just a few small tweaks will really elevate the finish.
2 Likes
looking good so far
2 Likes
Dark patches are the Future…that’ll go away after a flat coat.
I’ll relook the back end, but it’s possible that it’s not showing well due to the angle of the photo. I’ll look though.
Thank you for the comments!
Mike
1 Like
I made the mistake of doing decals AFTER some of the weathering. DOH! I’ll correct that once all the decals are on…and hit the OVM too before moving to the undercarriage.
Many thanks for the input!
Mike
1 Like