3D printed vs. metal indy tracks

So I’ve been working on a T55. Opted for AM tracks. Usually prefer MasteClub, crisp details, and to me at least, a bit easier to assemble because they generally require less clean up. Ahh, but T55 tracks have been hard to come by lately. On several earlier T55 builds I had used 3D printed as they were readily available and a bit less expensive. Had left overs from these but only enough for one run. Checked where I keep my tracks not really expecting to find any. Ha, should’ve checked first. So as I’m sitting here cleaning them up and assembling them it dawns on me that there’s far too much cleanup and time involved compared to the printed tracks.

Point of the above is that the ease/difficulty depends on your perspective. So now somewhat of a dilemma I suppose. Due to their weight the metal tracks have a natural sag and give the model a little heft. Printed tracks will sag as well but need to be coaxed, not difficult to do. Printed tracks also do not add weight and are somewhat delicate although not necessarily fragile. Which do you prefer or does it not matter to you?

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I think it’s a personal preference. Most of my build subjects don’t have sag, so the cheaper option the better.

Never gotten the weight thing. Only the builder knows. No one else should be picking up the model. If on a base, that seems mute as well. Plus depending on the kit there is more stress on the suspension than it’s designed and can be more of a con than a pro.

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The weight for me is a personal thing not really anyone else should be aware of as you said. Never had a problem with the stress but I suppose it could be an issue.

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I just finished some DEF printed track for an M113. No clean up needed and just snapped together. Nice and crisp printing. I will use them again.

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I prefer ones piece tracks

3D, not a fan of metal.

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Russian tank, heavy metal tracks!

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Love metal tracks as long as they’re cleanly cast. Not a fan of drilling out links. Always prefer Indy links but will use good rubber tracks for live track like Sherman VVSS track.
For 3D printed, I have some Quick Tracks but haven’t tried assembling them yet.

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My favorite aftermarket tracks were the white metal Sector35 (Ukraine) as they were available pre-assembled. Add or remove a link as needed. All of the benefits of rubber band track, white metal track and easier to use than the best 3D printed parts. Less expensive than Fruilmodel with far superior quality control and very little clean up needed for unassembled links. Literally, the Best of the Best in every way!

They were also available unassembled if saving a few dollars was a priority. With Putin’s War, Sector35 isn’t available currently.

Que Ugly Face.

QuickTracks are my next choice these days with Sector35 unavailable. The Panther D tracks I’ve used articulated like white metal. I glue the track to the road wheel bottom and the bttom of the track to the base to ensure the snap together links won’t be overstressed. I hope they will hold up well over time.

White metal wise, Master Club, R-Model & San Xin appear good. I have sets but haven’t build a full set yet.

White metal? More like a white Elefant or white Elephant…Fruilmodel is has a lot of wild variations in quality. Sometimes the casting are pretty clean then like my experience yesterday wirh Cromwell tracks, exact 1 link out of 125 links was a clean casting. I’m pretty much done with buying Fruilmodel products. The product quality is too much of a crap shoot anymore.

I’ve used Fruilmodel since the 1990’s and the old folding clasp design. When the quality went to hell a few years ago, I ordered direct from the orginal owner after he cleaned house and those links were good quality. My only purchase since the new owner took over via a reseller is garbage quality :wastebasket:

Not paying $48 (or even $5) a set for Fruilmodel’s crappy products if it’s at all avoidable again. Tired of chasing every hole and removing tons of casting flash for 7 of the last 10 sets used.

Excuse me, have another 125 crappy Fruilmodel :poop: links to clean up for the other run of Cromwell tracks.

BTW - regarding weight of white metal tracks, the return rollers on Pz III & Pz IV’s have the most track weight on them relatively speaking out of the kits I’ve built. None have had any issues with track weight. This model has a set of the Extra Thick & Heavy old school Fruilmodel folding clasp tracks from the early 1990’s.

The model is ~22+ years old, been on lots of car rides in a 91 Camaro & 99 Trans Am bouncing to model shows etc. The tracks sag more than they did in 2003 but that happened sometimes with the old clasp tracks over many years.

I think if track weight was an issue this model would have had issues.

Edit - agreed link & length is usually the worst of all worlds.

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I prefer metal,but not the price.
I have been using Quick Wheel 3-D tracks and I really like them,but the smaller ones are pretty fragile,but I manage,for me,its about give and takes, and finding a good compromise,I have also used one piece on live track tanks,the only ones I hate are link and length.

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Different strokes for different folks. I like link and length particularly Tamiya’s because they go together well. I like Fruils providing they are cleanly cast, and I like the 3D providing the resin is not too brittle. Although ship related, Black Cat has very nice resin that has a little give when you remove it from supports. T-Rex resin is very brittle. They recommended a sonic cutter for their parts, but my initial survey shows a very high cost for these.

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I picked up QuickTracks for my Takom Hetzer. I ended up breaking a bunch just trying to assemble them, even after searching as much as I could for videos showing good techniques to assemble. Wasn’t super happy with the experience. To that end, I’m looking at metal tracks for my next project, if plastic workables are not available.

Damon.

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As much of 3D print nut as I am, not a fan of 3D printed tracks. Too fragile for me. Metal indy tracks are too expensive. I still like the regular polystyrene “plastic” tracks the most. :slight_smile:

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I’ve used the Quicktracks on a Stug III and a set for a Stug IV now. I like them so much that I’ve ordered a couple of Sherman sets, keeping my fingers crossed I have the same experience with those.

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I am jealous of you. I put these together and as soon as I tried to install them they started to come apart. Soon I was very frustrated and gave up on them.

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I have assembled them but have not installed them yet as the kit is not finished yet. So I still may have issues yet.

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I may have just been lucky so far, no guarantee I won’t crash and burn on the next set. Semper Fi

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I did a SU-76 and a Panzer IV,crashed snd buened on the M-113 tracks they just wouldnt click together,broke too many.I’ll give them a try again when I need them,we’ll see how it goes.

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Individual, workable, plastic ones especially for modern vehicles. I prefer their strength over fine details, as they will be covered by mud and dirt anyway.

Resins can have visible layers and are way too brittle, sometimes too thin.
Metal are, meh, too much drilling and wrong color.

I’m currently assembling tracks for Takom’s M103 and I can manhandle them as much as I want, I can add destruction to pads and all.

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