Received the 3D printed XM246. It doesnt look too bad in the raw resin. Need to give it a scrub and spray some Mr Surfacer on it. The clean-up of connectors and dross shouldn’t be too tricky. It appears to match photos of the prototype well enough. I had a lot of photos of it back in the day, working on the program, but they were lost in a move (along with most of my aviation and automotive art collection). Will attempt to source some barrels, either a cheap Gepard kit ot aftermarket if they exists, as these are warped a bit. Yes, I will try to straighten them, but you never know…The printing of the turret seems good, with even grab handles coming out well.
The running gear is printed as a unit, but is still pretty detailed. Might consider picking up an M48, or maybe just tracks. Bag contains misc items: antennas, hatches, etc.
All in all, I’m looking forward to working my way through this model. Easy camo, as I recall it was just dark green overall and will look great parked alongside my ancient Tamiya York and Gepard.
Well, well, well…turns out the Takom Gepard has both A1 and A2 parts, with original and updated barrels. So I can build a newer better Gepard A2, and get a set of the “early” barrels to use on the 3D print!
Put some primer on it and started cleaning up the mold “dross” (does that have a name? the little filaments?). All in all, not too bad. Some paint and light weathering and it will be good to go. I worked on the real one between trials (GD Pomona Division, Rancho Cucamonga facility) and it was kept tidy.
The barrels are not only slightly warped, but some of the muzzle features are a little thick; these will be replaced with plastic ones from Takom Gepard spares. Dropped one of the track assemblies while painting but you cant tell once it’s on the chassis. Some of the printing striations are quite pronounced. I wish they had printed the domes as separate parts to make clean-up a little easier (I will remove the antenna on the rear of the turret and re-attach after finishing). The little bits are finely molded…M60, hatches, baskets, a couple of jerry cans. Impressed enough with this that I ordered a Boxer GTK Skyranger from them. I’m on a SPAAG kick.
This is a 1/4 scale model that was built for marketing purposes back during the program. It was radio controlled, rolled around, turret rotated and guns elevated. We used to take it out and run it around a vacant lot next to our building.
Though I have no idea what happened to the actual tank (I left GD in 1981, it was still parked at the facility), this model is now at the museum noted on the turret. If anyone has more info on this, more photos, etc., would love to see them.
Hello Orangelion03. I ordered this model recently and I noticed in your pics some warpage in the Track/ roadwheel assembly. How did you correct that issue?
Yes, they were warped, but when I maneuvered the track/wheel assemblies on to the swing arms of the chassis, they were pulled into alignment. I didnt apply any heat, though soaking them in warm water would probably make it a little easier.
When I was a little boy, the M247 was pretty well known, even in Poland - partly from Tamiya and Academy catalogues, and partly from previous “Yankee threat” publications. I didn’t get to see the old models in the modelling shops, but when the Takom kit came out I knew I had to build it - and I did! Your model would look great next to a Sgt. York for comparison, and I think it would be worth it to paint it in MERDC (but of course this in entirely up to you).
Yes, the primer makes it look like a proper model now! The striations on the domes are significant. Any suggestions on fillers? This is my first fully 3D printed kit and have not needed to “fill” any previous parts like this before.
Perhaps another blast of primer? It shouldn’t obscure too much detail. You might find that after primer and the final coat they disappear in any case. This happened on my Chrysler TV-8 model. There looked liked an all pervading pattern of manufacturing striations, but they simply disappeared come the final coat.
Obviously high risk if you don’t take any action though, and yours looks a touch more pronounced than my problem perhaps.
It depends. Primer will help fill the valleys, then sanding can take the ridges down to the same level. Of course then it needs another coat of primer to seal it all and make it ready for paint!
