Air brush v spray can

Well I stand corrected. But you can’t math my phobia of airbrushing.

4 Likes

Definitely agree we all have our preferences! That’s not a math question.

Most of my preferences aren’t cost friendly! :laughing: :rofl: :laughing:

3 Likes

Only frequent training and practice will cure a phobia.

I started with Korean copy of a Badger 150 (cheap, double action).
Used enamels with white spirit which wasn’t quite the right stuff.
Had the airbrush under control for basic surface coverage after an
hour of practicing. Realised that the cheap putt-putt-putt compressor
without tank would not allow me to do fine lines since they came out
as small dots instead (putt putt putt …).
Sold the El Cheapo air pusher and bought a silent compressor instead.
Saved a lot of time getting coverage on the lower hulls of tanks, I was going
mental trying to do it with a hairy brush.
Saved on paint since I could lay down thin and even coverages a LOT
faster and thinner than with the hairy brush.
From basic control for surface coverage to doing fine lines there will be
a learning curve, fine motor control is essential but model building isn’t
for the ham fisted.
I started directly with dual action as that was the recommendation I got
from other airbrush users. That advice probably saved me a lot of aggro
when trying to get the needle setting correct. If there is too much paint in
the spray I just let the index finger slightly forward, if it is too dry I just pull
back a little. A lot easier than fiddling around with an adjustment screw.

If I had started with acrylics with tip drying I would most certainly have gone
mental. I tried the Aztek 470 since it had special “acrylic tips”, the worst piece
of crap I have ever hand in my hand (and I have raised three kids and changed
their diapers and washed their butts). Others have been satisfied with their
Azteks so maybe it was an inconsisten manufacturing process with really bad
quality control. I must have got the worst airbrush produced that month.
The wooden case was really nice though. I managed to sell it, best move that
decade.
After some practice I managed to airbrush with acrylics but I will not abandon
the enamels, they’ll have to pry them from cold dead hands when that day comes.
anyway.

4 Likes

I’ll get there soon it is a skill I want to learn and will. I do have one question my paint booth is in the garage (I don’t want the smell in the house), what challenges do you see me having using that location.

1 Like

Temperature. A cold garage in the winter can affect the paint (kills acrylics, unsure about the enamels).
Definitely affects your fine motor control (cold stiff fingers …). I don’t think I would like to leave the
compressor out in the winter frost either. Depends on where you live …

Noise. You can use a cheaper garage type compressor instead of the expensive quiet ones, maybe even a dual use compressor which is big enough for garage type jobs as well. A medium sized garage compressor with a 6 to 8 gallon tank will last you a whole evening of painting. Start it and let it fill the tank and then shut it off and enjoy the silence. The sudden noise explosion if it starts when you are totally concentrated on painting could give you a serious scare.

Dust. Would be a problem indoors as well, no change there. Just take preventive measures. More of a problem when doing high gloss paint jobs on model cars. Tanks and military stuff with matt and maybe weathered surfaces are more forgiving.

Wildlife. Depends on the garage. Don’t want bugs, mice and birds interfering

1 Like

I counter the cold (Colorado) by spraying my items then letting them dry in the kitchen also i keep my rattle cans in a kitchen cabinet to stay at a useable temp.

1 Like

Could you section off a smaller room in the garage and use a small heater?
Alternatively: Assemble inside during the winter and airbrush in the garage during
the summer.

1 Like

Spray cans are something good modelers graduate from.

2 Likes

Three words: Mr surfacer 1500

I used to absolutely hate priming when I used acrylic primer. Tip dry, sputtering, bad flow you name it, I encountered it. I switch to the lacquer based Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned roughly 50/50 with mr level thinner. You literally can’t mess up. Spray in thin coats and you get a flawless smooth surfacer that will even fill in small scratches. I now prime everything with ease. The black color also provides a very nice base for most paint colors to build up contras

2 Likes

I tried Mr Surfacer once. The smell was horrible. (I suffer chronic migraine and cluster headaches and smell is a trigger). So I’m ‘stuck’ with acrylics.

Air brushing is a black art. I think I’ve watched over a million hours of YouTube videos. Well maybe not a million!! :thinking: But it seems like it. EVERY one of those videos is different and has a different setup. Needle size. Thinning ratio. Paint type. Pressure. Distance. Temperament and level of standard. What suits my standard may not suite your standard.

I guess for me it’s the inconsistency of airbrushing. Some days I celebrate by smiling at the wife. Other days she stays well clear!!!

3 Likes

Have you tried a 3M respirator? I can’t smell anything through mine!

I hear you, I used to hate airbrushing, until one day I stopped watching videos and just practice. I agree videos almost make harder to figure out. One day it just clicked

4 Likes

If you decant a rattle can and airbrush the paint, my oh my, it sprays very well.

3 Likes

That’s a good call too!!! Do that with some dull cote and it sprays very well

1 Like

I agree in part especially if using Tamiya paints, however if using Vallejo paints and others of similar types you must prime. If not, it is very likely that the paint will rub off without too much work, your mileage may vary but I have done it myself and I wasn’t man handling the kit either. Then there is the issue of weathering and more potential when using some techniques to remove more paint.

4 Likes

Typically when I rattle can I will do it outside outside. The reason is the volume of spray will be plenty in the air. If in a garage even with the door open at some point more then likely your garage and anything you have stored in it will start to looking the colors sprayed. It is possible if temporarily storing in the garage while painting different colors the air droplets from one color can land on the painted plastic of another color before taking in the house to dry.

I also always run my cans under hot water for a few minutes before painting as it helps with the mixing the painting when shaking.

2 Likes

It’s a tool and like any tool it can have a general or specific use.

2 Likes

My second hobby is home recording of my music. One of the most important tool is a compressor FX for the suk of the drum tracks and/or for the sum of guitar tracks. The reason is to “glue” them together to provide an even, balanced sound.
For me the same applies for the mutli-material models I build (plastic, resin, metal) and a uniform surface.
That is why I am committed to use primers.
Against spraying everywhere in the model room I ise the primer in my garden only. No issue, no smell, no hysteria from Herself.

3 Likes

Assembly is all done inside only painting is done outside for three major reasons. First the smell of paint, second a quiet air compressor is a little bit more pricy then I’m looking to spend and across from the room I’m building is my bedroom and the wife is a light sleeper and lastly I haven’t even tried to figure out the logistics of venting my spray booth out of the window.

2 Likes

For me I don’t mind the smell it’s the other living creatures that live with me.

2 Likes

My only problem airbrushing primer is cleaning the airbrush. If a mistake done and not cleaning something, may waste 200 USD. That is not good…

1 Like