No, I do not think so. Also these loops are massively over scale. In short, not a technique I would use again.
I am trying a variation on this theme/technique on a WWI fighter which is much better. Still trying to figure out rigging - especially if complex camouflage or decalling are involved.
Merry Xmas all my fellow biplane and rigging enthusiasts!
Got the fuselage closed up and primed. The body is resin cast with superb detail
I have use Surfacer 1500 to cover any gaps
I have also primed the rest of the main elements, wings and tail, to cover some imperfections. As this is a typical short run kit you have to create your own attachment points.
The lower wings will pinned through the body.
Here is the body resting on top. The exacting part will be getting the right amount of lift in the wings.
And the attachment points for the tail section
and what it looks like dry fitted
The other piece of work is the top wing. It came in three sections and they have been pinned and glued with the desired 3degrees of lift. The small mid section did not have the ribs defined at the join points so I am creating those. This is prt way through.
So in a few more days we should get the lower wings and tail attached and get some paint on.
cheers
Michael
My entre, i actually wanted to do an An-2 but just acquired this little kit Japanese Navy Trainer
Not sure what to expect but after building it in a very short time frame i highly recommend it,… no flash and fits perfect and the best thing the decals where still good (1990 Boxing).
So after a few hours to build the kit, rigging took considerably longer as i need to walk away after each drop of super glue to avoid the fumes which give me an allergic “flew like” reaction,… anyway
Painting is easy with 2 major colors
And after the coat of floor polish, decals
So i’m now waiting on the change to get some styrene strips to build a trolly/scaffold as seen on authentic ww2 pictures of this Kawanishi K5Y2 anyway that will be a 2025 creation
Looks great Jan. Great to see another biplane completed.
cheers
Michael
Well it’s painted. Aluminium with khaki anti-glare and red wing tips. I also made some masks for the roundels.
There was some minor bleeding in the roundels to be fixed up but otherwise I am happy with them. Next up the squadron decals and the linen effect for the wings and tail.
cheers
Michael
Who was the maker of this superb little little kit? It looks so nice it could well have been a larger scale.
I see you built the kit, rigged it and only then painted it. How did you do your rigging? Did you have any problem getting the rigging to take paint?
Paul
This is really looking nice! I have several kits from this maker and they look like builds that will require “modeling skills.” Please take some pictures of the rigging process. Many of us would like to see exactly how it is done.
Paul
I finally started work on the 50 odd year old Hasegawa 1/32 Boeing F4B-4. It is old but the main parts still look pretty good. The cockpit is basic, more like you would expect in a 1/72 scale kit these days.
I’m trying two new things for me here. First is of course, rigging. i’m going to give it a try and just see how it goes. The other new thing is a resin engine from Vector. This is a kit in itself and I have spent a lot of time with it.
I posted some pics of the start a long time ago but will include them here to avoid all the scrolling.
This Navel Fighters booklet has been terrific! It has all the detail shots I could ask for in nice sharp photos.
Paul
Here are some shots of the build. To fit the resin engine, the firewall needs to be removed from the kit parts. I used a Dremel with a barrel shaped burr to remove the bulk of it and then sanded the fuselage down until it fit the resin firewall. The instructions for the motor kit are rudimentary.
Paul
A couple of more pictures showing where the project is right now. The pushrods still need to be fabricated and installed. The exhaust system is all butt joints and I do not have much confidence in this so I’m going to try drilling & pinning the pipes to the motor. We’ll have to see if this actually works. Those pipes are very small . . .
Paul
That F4B looks like a nice kit - what scale is it? As for the instructions, that’s pretty much the level you’ll get with the Lukgraph kits.
cheers
Michael
I am not sure I have any special insight to rigging though with the Wapiti it seems that it had no visible turnbuckles (well any that I can see in the photos). My main concern at the moment is putting on the top wing - there are twelve struts to align while keeping them at a 20degree angle. The wing is about 18" so plenty of chances for this to go wrong.
cheers
Michael
Would a fictional aircraft that otherwise meets all criteria–powered, rigged, winged–qualify for this campaign?
Edit: After doing a bunch of research on rigging and wings, I decided to sit this one out. It is a bridge to far.
The F4B-4 is the 1/32 Hasegawa kit that dates back to 1970 or so. It was very good for its time and still stands up well in its general look. Detail in the cockpit & motor is simplified.
Many of us are here to learn to rig models and some details of how you manage this would be very helpful to those of us who have avoided building models that require this. A photo of how you get the glue where it needs to be and hold the rigging while getting in place might be helpful.
A fictional aircraft would certainly be alright with me. I myself intend to build the 1/32 Hasegawa P-12 as a sportplane such as a wealthy enthusiast such as Howard Hughes might have purchased.
Paul
I shot the tail planes of the F4B-4 a nice bright true blue and it looked great - initially. After sitting overnight I shot a second coat as some of it looked a bit rough. Now it mostly looks rough & I want to get it off and try again.
The paint is a Krylon. How best should it be removed without harming the plastic? I have heard some use Easy-Off oven cleaner. Is that the best way?
Paul
I don’t mind a fictional aircraft - just happy to see more builds here.
I have always use Tamiya paint remover - seems to work with everything though I have never used Krylon. Is it acrylic or lacquer paint? Over cleaner I have only used to remove chrome plating for truck and car parts so I don’t know how it would work on paint.
Hi Paul, if I am starting with a rigging plan it is of course necessary to know where it all goes. For this kit Lukgraph provide comprehensive diagrams
Since I won’t be using turnbuckles here I will drill a 0.3mm hole at the point each line will go into the wing or fuselage. Some of the holes are already there, or certainly the location point, particularly in the fuselage. As I have a lot of holes to drill I will come back with some photos of what that looks like later.
cheers
Michael
Your build is coming along very well and this next stage is going to be the educational part, I will be following closely. My F4B-4 is not too far from getting to the rigging stage.
I do not know what type of paint Krylon is. They have always been very cagey about that. It acts like some sort of enamel but who knows?
The first coat went on very well and I was very pleased with it. On drying there were a few rough spots so I shot it again. As before, it looked great at first but after it dried was even worse. I shot it over unprimed plastic.
Recently another color of Krylon was used to paint the interior and I was very pleased with the results. The only issue I had was that the black wash did not crawl into resesses as I expected and was hard to wipe off.
Paul
Hi Paul, its an obscure Japanese brand the seized in 1992 called LS see: scalemates
Rigging whas done with EZ Line and attached with super glue (Cheap local brand) i primed the whole including the rigging and after airbrush painting did the rigging with hand painting,… next model with rigging i will drill more holes and glue them from below as i only did a couple on this build (the result will look better im sure but is a more fiddle i thought in this build.
