Sometimes it’s better to wait before mentioning things like that - one never knows if it was intentional or not.
Can’t find the post about the M113 track but I know it’s out there.
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some types of track can be fitted either way and wont make too much difference but the M113 T130 and T130E1 track (later version) had to be on the correct way as the pad is designed to meet the ground surface from the front of the footing and with the side grousers facing the correct way also. if fitted backwards the toe will cause a lot of vibration in the front end. it is why there is a bevel in the leading edge of the pad with a steel lip in front of it for support.
this is T130E1 track which has the wider pad and steel work is slightly different
this is yet again T130E1 links but with early type T130 pads - you can put early pads on E1 links but not the other way around due to the profile of the recess they sit into. (the 2 types of track can also NOT be used with each other)
you can see the bevel on the sides of the pad and the base is more of a squarer shape where it contacts the ground.
the later E1 track was a lot longer lasting due to a bigger pad contact surface and improved bushes fitted made from stronger materials
the tracks that come with the kit are technically wrong (although most people would not know the difference) the side bevels are too far out and the toe is a little wide plus the steel work shape is a little wrong.
the track from AFV Modeller is wrong also as they have T130 steel work shape with E1 pads (which do not fit)
this is track from Jacques Duquette who has made it a lot closer to the proper links.
T130 Track (Vietnam Era)
and T130E1 (released in around 1976)
he even added casting marks into the links and pads
another note is if adding spare links they do not sit flat as there is a live bush in them so spare track will always bend up slightly as you can see here. (helps the track go around the sprocket and idler with less resistance.
later track like T150 and Deihl track is not directional.
T150 Track
Deihl Track - the pads they step left and right and they carried snow grouser pads also on Canadian carriers
can see the snow cleats on the side
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Also, on the vehicle with the T-130E1 track, the spare tracks are almost always placed as individual pieces. I think the mounting studs are spaced specifically for this, probably accounting for the “live” nature of the track (it wants to curl in):
There are some picture of the track mounted together, as was shown above, but the mounting tends to be jerry-rigged, rather than SOP.
I will have to change this in my track offerings, I am currently doing the spares like in the kit - tracks connected. Simple fix; the things you learn talking on these threads! So nice to have a knowledgeable and inspiring community.
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Update Note See the area between Pic. #23 & #24.
Regards
Donald
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we normally stored lengths of about 6 to 8 links spare on top of the carrier (sometimes behind the top hatch but had a rack at the right of the turret where it would fit
normally when you found a dead link you would do at least the link either side of the dead join because if one side started to slog out the other would be on its way out and putting in 1 individual link was harder than a pair of links (when inserting the pin you had to angle the joint to get the positive pressure in the join) so we found having individual links to be a waste of time.
Australia started that during Vietnam having lengths instead of individual links.
it would fit onto the standard mounts as a linked set
You can see here below signs of a dead bushing but it is hard sometimes to say which of the 2 links it is, the gap at the back end is wider then the front side (not to mention the missing inner pad) normally for a gauge we would use a standard Bic pen and if it went in the gap it was getting worn, you would also walk the track and could see a rocking in the links either side of the joint
Worn
Good
and track tension we normally went off finger thickness above 2nd roadwheel (on an A1 carrier)
this is track with completely dead links as the guys that had the carrier did not know how to maintain it properly, some of the bushings had the rubber ripped to shreds and not even attached to the inner metal sleeve
there should be rubber on these bush sleeves
you can see here how the lengths curl up with the live bush. lengths stored for long periods of time it is suggested to have them on their side coiled (we were changing to new pads on this track)
“Walking The Track” to look for dead links
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Great stuff!
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OK that was an interesting distraction, Now back to the build.
Today I have the Mg.s I decided to use the Kit 50 Cal. with modifications instead of paying 42 Pounds Sterling for AFV Modelers Gun. I think it came out quite nicely.
For the M60 s I assembled Both the AFV Model and Kit guns. The AFV are more detailed and since I have them , I’ll be using them.
Actually the Kit M60s aren’t too bad and are usable.
Here are a few M60s Detail pics. I got off the net.
Finished for now.
Donald
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Regarding the POL cans vs water cans, the drive train on M113s use two different oils… a lot of it. It was SOP to carry one 5 gallon can of 30 wt oil on one side of the rear plate for the engine and one 5 gallon can of 10 wt oil on the opposite side for the transmission, transfer case, and final drives. Water cans were carried in the troop compartment or strapped down elsewhere externally.
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What kind of Cans were they? Would they look like Fuel Cans?
Regards
Donald
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Yes, they are the exact same screw top jerry cans. The screw top allows the fitting of the “donkey dick” flexible pour spout. The cans are used for various POL (Petroleum, Oil, Lubricants) products in a field environment. Often they may have the tops painted a color to designate what they hold: red for Mogas, aka gasoline, or Yellow for diesel. Our oil cans on each track would be stenciled with the 10 wt or 30 wt for the corresponding oils within each can.
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So I guess this is wrong?
I have the Cupola Finished, It is tight and the Hatch hits the Mg.
I’m still working on it, I don’t feel very good like I could go to sleep and never wake up.
so if this build stops you all will know what happened.
Regards
Donald
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Probably just a cold, feel better and don’t take a forever nap.
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For oil cans, yes. The red would denote MOGAS, or gasoline. Usually, the whole top portion of the can where the weld/separation line on the can is was painted to denote type of fuel inside.
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Your doing a great job on it.
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Sure is, been following this build since day 1, great job
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Good morning, Just to let you know that there will be a slight delay, This morning I found on andys site the following and I have ordered all of them. They are from Jason studios in 1/16th.
If you want them, I would suggest you do not hesitate.
They cost me with Shipping and Tax $163.18 U.S.D
Regards
Donald
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Yep, I posted a video about those 11 days ago. I would love to see how they work out in real life. Been thinking about getting some.
Ken
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Theyre very nice, just watch for a few sneaky seam lines here and there that can catch you out.
The decals are absolutely amazing, thin and cling well just need a little care not to let them fold on themselves.
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