Thanks for that. Hope to find the right thread tomorrow. The difficult part is done though. 
Update, bought some .7mm from Ben at Ropes of Scale. Should be able to finish the project by next weekend, if the tie-downs go well.
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My ICM Henschel 33D1 build is complete as far as the kit goes; I just need to finish a base for it and figure how to attach it to said base. The method I use for armor won’t work. I most likely am going to back in on that front bumper as the contact points were few and tiny and the whole assembly is nonsensically fiddly. I can see why this and the other two trucks in the box were sold as such; older molds that while fine are not ICM’s current level. The build is hiding (hopefully) a number of small fit issues and misalignment of parts that are a mix of kit and end user. The base will hide a mild case of floating wheel due to a slight warp of the frame.
I have to touch up the road dust and a few other nits and I will post a final pic then.
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Any suggestions as how to most securely attach a truck model to a base that is a piece of 3/4 inch sandable pine plywood with a thin layer of papier-mâché across the top? My thought was to run wire around the axles and then down through holes in the base, where they can be tied off underneath, kind of the way die cast vehicles are secured inside their boxes. I need them to past the Dairy Queen test: Nothing will fall out if I flip it upside down. IYKYK
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Very thin transparent zip ties maybe? Anyway, I do love your build, bow across the hood - that’s a real truck!
Great job,
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That truck looks great! I use wire around the axles for mine - but remember to paint the wire so it doesn’t show! Oh, and drill shallow holes under the base so the wires can be tucked in rather than causing the base to wobble…
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I built an AFV Club M109 Van (circa 1980) for a fellow NCO several years ago. I put it on a base that resembled the cobblestone motorpools in Germany and used thin wire through the base and around the axles close to the inner hubs. The wires were really difficult to see unless you looked. You really only need one wire per axle alternating the sides. Worked like a charm.
Mike
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What I do (usually before I attach the wheels!), is drill a hole up through the opposing (ie left front and right rear) tyres and insert a toothpick or wooden skewer in the hole. Then I put a dab of paint on the ends, then place it on the board to mark out the position of the skewers. Drill out the corresponding holes in the base and fit the model in place then mark off the length of skewer protruding through the base for cutting off. Glue the skewer in to the base and when set press the model wheels over the peg.
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I haven’t built any bases, but recently I’ve parked a couple of rigs on suitably-sized mirror glass. Quite effective with the underside of the wagon reflecting down onto the mirror.
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Have only just started this kit:
Might as well enter it into this campaign and as I won’t finish it in 2 months carry it on into the next verson 
What I’ve done sofar, added detail to the cabin’s interior and primed it:
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Looks like a plan, Bert! I’m interested to see how you get on, as I have one in my stash to build some day.
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Did some accurizing of the old Tamiya M106 today, correcting the M2 gun mount and adding a pintle and cradle. The original mounting bracket was too long and lacked the necessary fittings. Thanks must go to 18bravo for his input on getting the details right.
Tomorrow I should be able to start the trailer tie-downs.
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A few quiet nights away gave me some time to get into my entry here.
First night went very quickly - for once no filler needed on a truck chassis!:
Second night was drilling the holes around the edge of the wheels and assembling them and some cab work:
….and discovering the short shot in one sprue - the vanes in the grill and the windscreen wipers:
I’ll do my best to replace these….
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The rear fender has been drilled out and threaded with correct.45mm rope. Tie down rings are on the Freighter trailer and the chains have been mostly assembled.
The tie downs should go on tomorrow to complete this project.
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It is looking good so far. A couple pointers, first, the tow cable is upside down. The ends should point up.
Also, MERDC camo has 4 colors.
I believe you are going for the pattern of Summer, US & Europe, Verdant , which is Forest Green, Light Green, Sand, Black
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Thanks Gino, I’ll fix the cable tomorrow. This paint scheme is 4 colours, the two darker ones are post ‘68 Olive Drab which is slightly more brown than the previous shade and the last colour is Matt Black. Sorry the 4th colour doesn’t show up in the pic, it’s quite evident in reality.
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Sounds good.
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Actually it’s Temperate Summer Woodland as used in S Korea in the ‘70’s during warmer months. Forest Green, Light Green, Olive Drab and Black.
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