Fire for Effect!

On my AuF, it has the jerry cans as a “French Army Green” … is there a close to Tamiya or AK RC range match for that ?

I have AK 4082, that is listed as French Army Green, and according to the Hobby Color Converter app in AK 3rd gen paint 11364 has 99%; and RC230 and RC326 both have 97%. Tamiya is at 97% for LP26, nothing direct for XF.

Meanwhile, bascs have been assembled…

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Johnny
I usually paint the French fuel cans Olive Green which is really green and has not the brownish hue of the Olive Drab.

Olivier

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Nice choice Bert.
If you intend to go the hard way, i.e. overdetailing, I have a large walkaround of this model in my site.

I guess you will swap the tracks for more useable ones like the Takom ones.

Olivier

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Thanks Olivier and Bert :+1:

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Thanks Olivier, I will have a look at the pictures, but doubt if I will go for a lot of detailing, this is really meant as a fun build for me.
And hence I will be using the original tracks, might regret that later :roll_eyes:

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Going slightly out of sync with the destructions… Decided I will do the tracks next … not sure on the amount of links per side but there are 4sprues do I’m guessing 2 sprues worth per side …

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There will probably be a few spares in case of breakage John. Don’t assemble all the track links on 2 sprues for one run. Your best bet is clean them all up, but only assemble 80 - 90%. When you have done the the sprockets and wheels, you can then test fit and add whatever you need.

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With workable tracks, I would do a run so that when it is folded over, the half length is one link each end past the idler and sprocket mounting pin. That would be close enough until you could do a test fit.

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This is proving tedious… To say the least… I have only done indy links twice, these and the RFM Cr2 … The RFM ones were a breeze… These MENG ones … Not so…same amount of pieces per link - 3 but the way these are on the sprue and how you have to assemble is a pain…

I have done a length of 18 so far and it dragged… Admittedly you don’t need any glue and the 18 I have done move nice but …
This is the supplied jig and the track pad section fitted first. RFMs jigs are better as you could connect 2 or 3 together and do a big length if you wanted to… MENGs you are stuck with a run of 6then reload and repeat …

Next are the track pin pieces. Instructions say to leave them on the sprue, which I’ve done so far but the way they are cast, it’s a complete pain to cut the sprue away at the end…
Pins fitted.

And running side fitted on top and pressed home.

Now this is how the pins are connected to the sprue …

You can see the gate sits on top of the connector…

But when you try and cut them… You are 5 times out of 6 left with a stub that needs sanding back…

And if you are not super careful with how you cut … You can easily nip the end of a few guide horns off…

:see_no_evil::japanese_ogre:
Going to try removing the pins and adding them one at a time which will prolong the agony lol…

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Cut a couple strips of paper and tape them together. Wrap it around the suspension and cut to size. You now have a tape measure for the track run. That usually gets me within a link, one way or the other.

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Got a bit of rhythm for a while and a semi decent technique… Did 42 links and tried a quick bottom run test fit

I reckon it will take between 75 and 80 links … :thinking:

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I feel your pain John. I built Meng’s workable links for my PZH2000.

But may I suggest you glue the links once you have them roughly set up? These Meng click together links do not hold up to any movement. I have had several just open up of their own accord and they were a mongrel to get back together. This was from the last repair job:


I ended up running Tamiya extra thin in along the end connector and track faces, and on the inside edges of those I could get to, so they would be held in place.

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Great info, cheers Peter :+1:

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I always wonder about those workable tracks… guess it’s great to get them on and be able to position them exact around the idler etc, and the look far better thanthe one piece rubber ones, but who is going to “drive around” with his model afterwards? So once in place might as wel glue them together for safety.

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They are really useful for the dioramas guys who need to have tracks properly sitting on the ground and obstacles. I don’t belong to this category :grin:

Olivier

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After seeing the pictures on the site of @Bison126 and pictures online on a different site by someone who made this SPG I decided to do some detailing after all… takes a lof of your time though…
Mainly adding bolts, like on the driving section…

and the gun

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That really makes a difference Bert. Not all kits need extra work, but these older kits are really blank canvases compared to more modern ones.

Be aware, you are now on the slippery slope of scratch building and detailing, and you won’t want to go back. You will now view a kit’s potential, rather than what is there, and that is a good thing in my opinion. Most often it will be just you that notices the changes, but you will get a much stronger feeling of accomplishment when done. It is taking your hobby to the next level.

Looking forward to seeing more.

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Nice detailing so far. :+1:

Olivier

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Peter, Olivier, thanks!! And indeed, this extra detailing is almost an addiction, only started with those bolts on the hull…

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