OK. I think I’ll extend to the end of July.
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Thank you! Life was busy for the last two weeks but new paint arrived, primer is down, and base coating is underway. I just need to add a last few tools, make some sand shields, and finish painting.
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Finally getting back to the bench. Life has a way of changing your directions.
Finished the last piece yesterday and am starting painting. I was not totally thrilled with this kit I would give it a 7 out of 10. Lots of mold seams and seams in places that reminded me of kits 20 years ago. I think they missed the mark by what they left out of the box. The small ammo cart and shell should have been included, it was a no brainer that they missed. I did like the internal sleeve they used on the barrel. There were large handles that should have been molded separately, instead they just molded them to the base.
Anyway…
I got out my Eclipse spray gun and couldn’t get the needle to move back. So I disassembled what I could and all looked good. Took the plyers and carefully pulled the needle out from the back side. There was some gunk on the needle so into the ultra sonic cleaner with a jar of lacquer thinner. I was surprised at what came out.
I normally run lacquer thinner, then water when I finish a session. The airbrush was visibly clean when I picked it up so I guess the lesson is to deep clean when done for the day.
All is good now.
Here is where I need help from you artillery men. I have no experience with artillery and especally a siege gun. In weathering this,I am out of my league. I could just guess and most would tell me that was far too much mud and the fuel stains would seem odd.
Can you artillery types please advise me as to what a realistic weathering would be on a siege gun like this? In real life it was attached to a concrete base so It did not travel much. Where would the paint be worn and what areas would be bare metal. Are there streaking or grease/ oil stains? Dust? Any and all advice would be appreciated.
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Thanks for the extension! I definitely needed it. I’m aiming to wrap up this weekend or next.
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Aloha and thank you for the extension.
Made some progress, but the extra time will allow me to fine tune and weather it. My Photo Booth went missing, so the pics are not that great.
[url=IMG_5287 | Zon Sullenberger | Flickr]
IMG_5285 by Zon Sullenberger, on Flickr
Happy Modeling,
Zon
7 Likes
I am calling this done. 420 cm “16 inch” gun is big. The weathering is my interpretation since I am not an artillery person and photos were only so helpful.
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Looking good! Since it is a fixed piece, I recon that weathering was virtually non existent? Or was it a field piece? Than I’d go for some scuffing and dust…
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It was an outside piece mounted to a concrete base
Hey, hey.
My Academy M12 Gun Motor Carriage just went into the trash so I cannot complete. Sorry. I really thought it was in the bag. Installing the tools, with all the photo etch, was difficult but I got past that. I got past the very flimsy AFV Club individual link tracks. I had the interior masked and in hand. Unfortunately, stringing the ditching spade was far beyond my abilities as a model builder. I put in about 80 hours trying but my skills as a model builder are pretty bad.
Congratulations to everyone who finished! Sorry again for failing.
2 Likes
Doug,
Pull it back out of File 13 and set it aside for a while. 80+ hours working on it = keep going. Worst case, finish it without the spade’s cable(s). Come back to it later…I’m a huge fan of artillery and I’d love to see you finish it with OR without the cables.
In the famous words of Rob Schneider and/or Adam Sandler, “You can do it!”
Mike
3 Likes
Doug,
I’ve seen your work. You are a very capable modeler. There is not much above your pay grade if you’re doing all that PE work. 80+ hours is a serious investment. Get the model back and by pass the winch cable for now. Leave it for last. Try dental floss for the cable. If that doesn’t work after several attempts don’t bin it. Just leave the cable out. Take your photos and finish the campaign. Put the model on the “done” shelf and be proud of the work that you did do; you accomplished too much to have a defeatist attitude. Finish that very great model with or with out a winch cable.
"The greatest glory is not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall." - Confucius
3 Likes
Well? I think I’m done with my M102 Howitzer build. I was thinking of adding a diorama base to it, but with the way things currently sit in my personal life, I will put the dio on hiatus until a much later time.
I’m pleased with how it looks, even after the little “oopsie” i had with the glue, but i was able to save the build it came out well. It’s only my second AFV Club build (after the M1126 Striker ICV).
I will probably tackle the IDF M109A2 “Doher” later on.
8 Likes
I finally wrapped up my M109A7 on Friday, but didn’t get around to taking pictures until today. The kit fought me all the way, which is a pity, as the subject is interesting and the kit showed flashes of promise. However, those flashes were drowned out by a vast sea of shoddy work and poor quality control. In addition to the poor instructions, the kit itself seems to have been designed by several different engineers who did not talk to each other, and then the molds prepared by drunks. Off-center axle holes in the wheels, a really crappy M2 and an even crappier Mk.19 (with no ammo can), missing detail, locator pins with no corresponding holes or, worse yet, pins where holes should be, and, the final indignity, which I didn’t notice until I put the main gun on the turret: a positioning tab on the main gun that leaves the muzzle brake slightly, but noticeably, off the horizontal axis. The list of faults is long. As I mentioned earlier, I gave up on correcting all of the flaws, but I did tackle a fair number, and it looks the part. Here’s what she looks like. Sorry for the middling pictures–they’re taken with my phone.
On the plus side, the tracks were nice and accurate. I also liked the included PE and jerry cans, which build up nicely. Bottom line, I don’t recommend the kit unless you really want an M109A7, in which case it’s the only game in town in 1/35.
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Nice work folks. Really nice to see several things getting completed with the extra time!
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Aloha All,
DasWerk’s 1/35 US 155mm Howitzer M-1918
IMG_5413 by Zon Sullenberger, on Flickr
IMG_5415 by Zon Sullenberger, on Flickr
IMG_5416 by Zon Sullenberger, on Flickr
Calling this one finished.
Thanks,
Zon
13 Likes
Ok, here is the list of folks who completed this campaign. If you completed it, and don’t see your name, please shout, and please post the date when you posted your completed photo so I can find it easily.
Zonarch
DeskJockey
SableLiger
TopSmith
Striker
bwilt
steviecee
Chiefgunner
TacFireGuru
FlyingSauerkraut
SGTJKJ
Johnnych01
hudson29
golikell
Bison126
1 Like
I’m not familiar with the intricacies of the kit, but if a spade is involved and it’s deployed, then one can emulate the cable, assuming it would be taut, with straightforward plastic/metal rod or similar. That might just remove the complexity of say, threading something flexible.
Just a thought.
Ooh Ra!
There is always the “Unfinished Business” campaign that you can finish up in for a badge. I know I have been there and entered the unfinished business last year and will probably will this year also.
Life is full of unfinished business.
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