Just ordered 3 sets of Broncos, 2 from one vendor, 1 from another. Apparently they are getting hard to find as this is all they had in stock. Two other US vendors said they had them but could not ship to my location ???. The rest were Hong Kong or China - can’t wait 3-4 months to get them.
HeavyArty, I’ll start a build thread once I get everything together. I only have 7 weeks till the show so no time to waste.
I just cleaned out the stocks for a dealer in Poland 
Needed 3 sets for my Accurate Armour t28 and two more sets for M26/M46 kits …
If you don’t intend to ‘Varoom’ the tank along your desktop the Bronco ones are plenty strong enough.
In my experience with AFV Club T-80, T-16 and T-48 tracks, I’m 100% with Robin - they are nothing but trouble. The ones I have had have severe sink marks, Knock out marks, connectors that split or fall off and they repel Tamiya extra thin cement. I never bothered trying any others. I used their T-80 which had huge attachment points that you had to use a razor saw to remove. Using nippers just broke them in the middle rod section:
… on their M40 but having had issues previously with enamel based washes, I used Tamiya as a base colour and Vallejo thinned with water as a sole weathering medium. They fought me all the way, but I won out in the end:
I have built several Bronco sets and never had issues with breakages as I treat them like any other thin model parts - with respect for potential breakage:
For the Stuart
For the Sherman
and all were still fully flexible when I fitted them. No breakage ever.
Fudge cookies with sprinkles. I have a lot of 2005-2010 era Dragon models in the closet and some have DS Tracks. Now I wonder what horrors await me.
Thankfully, I had a hunch those DS Tracks would not hold up and replaced them on all but one model I actually built. I suppose I better check that one model.
Edit: All the 1/72 scale Dragon models in my closet have DS Tracks. Many in the display case also have those tracks. This could get ugly.
Edit: Whew! The two 1/35 M4s with DS Tracks are still fine. (I forgot about the Sherman III at the back.) As best I can tell, none of the 1/72 tanks is sitting in a puddle of goo or on a pile or rubber rubble so I’ll leave those alone for another decade. 
This discussion also sent me to the cabinet – sho’ nuff the 20+ y.o. Italeri Blitz’s vinyl tyres are still decomposing & melting the hubs…
Same disease has struck my Italeri Blitz.
Resin wheels incoming …
You guys are scaring the kiddies! … Sent me rummaging through my boxes. The ‘DS Track Melters Haters Club’ is one I DO NOT wish to join! I looked, and so far all of my DS tracks/tires (tyres), (built and unbuilt) seem okay… Whew! Replacements for my unbuilt kits are already in the stash — not taking any chances.
I peeked in my S. Box, and my cat is dead.
Guys — thanks much for this topic. It prompted me to have a look in the box for my Dragon T28 Superheavy Tank. The tracks for my kit are likewise sweating, or liquifying, or whatever it is they are doing. Basically, they look the same as the tracks in the original post. The ‘bags’ they are in haven’t started leaking yet, so this viscous material hasn’t gotten on anything else.
I suppose there is really no point in trying to salvage them . . . I may as well chuck them, right?
Again, thanks for getting me to open the kit to check on them.
Mark
Welcome to the Forum ! My condolences on your dead tracks. Yup, toss them in the circular file and throw the package of guide teeth in your spares box. Glad you found them before they leaked through on anything. I have three sets of Bronco T80E1 tracks on the way to replace mine. Should arrive in about a week or so. You might want to go ahead and get either the AFV or Bronco ones now so you don’t forget the originals are gone.
The T28 did not use T80 tracks, they used a unique design. T80, and other HVSS tracks were nominally 23 inches wide when assembled. These are the tracks on the surviving T28:
As you can see, they are barely 20 inches wide. Also note that the grouser is a different shape than the grouser on the T80.
This is one of the numerous things DML goofed up on their T28 kit, which caused other various shape and dimensional issues. I forget whether T80 tracks will work on the kit or not, but they shouldn’t.
KL
I expect Gino’s intention was to address what tracks were available to replace the kit ones.
The T80E1 tracks are the right width and roughly equivalent to the size needed to replace Dragon’s incorrect, too wide tracks. There are no other AM offerings and if there were, if they were correct size they would not fit Dragon’s kit anyway.
Had Dragon introduced the Black Label series when they released the T28?
From what I read at the time, DML used standard Sherman HVSS tracks rather than making the correct narrow ones, causing the excess-width issue. So T80s should fit the bill…
You may be right. I only remembered that there were a multitude of dimensional issues with the kit, which prompted me to measure the real tracks when I got the chance.
KL
Not sure, but the T28 was a “Smart Kit” issue, not Black Label.
KL
Exactly. This was offered as a way to just fix the melting track issue, not Dragon’s accuracy issue.
You left out the “Not So” at the start! They were just warming up to the new BL standards…
The T-28 was probably a test run for the Black Plague series…
“Were they ever used as range targets? You did say you wanted to present it in an unconventional manner. Range targets are fun to model. You can pretty much let your imagination rule, and use as much or as little of the track that you want. It’s a great solution if money starts to become an issue.”
Only two were built. One caught fire during desert trials and was presumably scrapped. The other broke down in the boonies at Fort Belvoir, Virginia, and was abandoned. It was rediscovered in 1978 and moved the the Patton Museum at Fort Knox, Kentucky. The museum’s collection was removed when Fort Knox closed, but the T28 has now been restored to running condition. You can see it under power on YouTube.
Do the tracks show any loss of detail? If not I’d open up the package and rinse them off. See what you’re left with.
