Hobby Link Vietnam’s M125 mortar and AFV Club M113A1 ACAV

[dmiles]

Hobby Link Vietnam’s M125 mortar and AFV Club M113A1 ACAV

As mentioned in my last post I was going to start ICM’s FWD Type B, but I got stuck on the best method to make replacement tie down rings for the tilt so I thought f**k it I’m on a roll for Aust M113s let’s continue, so I have commenced Hobby Links M125 conversion on an AFV Clubs M113 ACAV hull.

The following photos are of the conversion set from Hobby Link ([https://www.facebook.com/hobbylinkvietnam\\](https://www.facebook.com/hobbylinkvietnam)) and I have to say the detail is great and this might look like a large number of parts but there are some double ups for people like me that break beyond repair or fling it across the room never to be found again so I can continue without trying to scratch a dodge replacement. Hobby Link also include a decal set but I reckon they are well under sized so I will be using Star decals and marking the vehicle 83 Alpha The Bad.

For all the things that are good about this kit I feel that the resin used may, long term, be too soft and the hull roof may eventually sag. I hope that time proves me wrong and this resin is up to the task. Photo 2-2 shows how flexible the resin is.

In addition to the Hobby Link kit, I will again be using Arms Corps Models (ACM) ([https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100088350093154\\](https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100088350093154)) engine deck, which includes new light guards and some tie downs and from my last build I think Jason (ACM) was (and rightly so) even more impressed with his creation when he saw it painted up it is a fine piece of work. Oh, and will I’m on ACM; hi Jason, hope you are reading this, T50 turret and LRV update set would be greatly appreciated I’ve got three to do BLOOD, SWEAT, & TEARS so at least three are pre-sold. But I digress.

While I have another belly armour set from Grey Fox Concepts ([https://greyfoxconcepts.com/\\](https://greyfoxconcepts.com/)) I decided to try and improve the belly armour the came with the M113 LRV kit I removed the access port from the hull’s underside, cleaned it up and put it in place file and fill and I am happy with the result and the hole in the hull will never be seen and the pre paint wash will bring it up a treat. pics 4-1 and 4-2

The next step was working on the internals, sprayed the drivers compartment Mr Hobby Duck Egg Green (yes it should be Sea foam Green but a full range SMS paints are scarce in NZ) and then test fitted the flooring and this wasn’t square so added a piece of evergreen to reduce the gap but I will cover this section with other stuff. I next wondered what the fit of hull roof was like and the right-hand side had a noticeable curve to it file, file, file sand added some more plastic strip and this should fit in good with some additional filler. I used the kit fuel tank as the few photos I have thus far found of the inside of Aust M125s show this tank rather than the one supplied by Hobby Link (not saying it is wrong but appear not to be used for VN era vehicles).

Lastly, I made some new sponson armour as I found out they should sit slightly proud of the hull side (and I hope I have credited this right) thanks Peter C Farrugia for one (well all) of your posts on facebook.

And I have figured out how to replace the tie down rings for the FWD.

[dmiles]

Hobby Link Vietnam’s M125 mortar and AFV Club M113A1 ACAV

Well, some weeks since I started this kit and so far, both happy and let down, happy because this is going together with ease, let down, some fit issues and not so straight, straight lines but more on that later.

The first set of photos are of the internals; I used Mr Hobby Duck Egg Green for the driver’s compartment and Testor’s Model Master 1711 FS34087 for the business end of the vehicle. I used 1711 to give some variation of the AS green, it is close to Mr Color C304 just slightly greener. You will not the ammo racks don’t sit square to the side wall but once the roof is on it should be that noticeable however, I’ll be mucking around with that to see if it can be made to look better but not at the expense of sitting flush on the base. I also noted in the photos that the pin marks are visible on the rotating mortar platform I plan on have the rear door open but the mortar facing on of the side so hopefully it won’t be noticeable when finished.

The Mortar itself is superb, very well detailed and will paint up a treat, the next couple of pics are of the other bits and pieces I have been working on, I spent some time trying t figure out if the inside of the rear guards had the inserts and in the end I found a picture from the Australian War Memorial (AWM) https://www.awm.gov.au/ that showed them. Just to the side the AWM is a great source of reference photos for pretty much any aspect of Australia and its involvement in conflict. I will respray the driver’s seat and mount as I ended up doing addition work on it. I inserted the optics into the cupola and went over them with a metallic green marker.

The hull roof has come out nicely and now sits square however as mentioned the not so straight bits, the hatch cover when closed is all over the place but looks acceptable when opened so I’m not getting to bent out of shape and I have one reference photo showing sundry stuff strewn over it so it will be somewhat hidden. The other not so straight bit were the hatch rods so I replace them with 1mm brass rod. The back strokes on the roof are position markers for the Grey Fox Concepts (https://greyfoxconcepts.com/) footman loop replacements.

Lastly the 50 Cal, I have 2 excellent kits the first 2 photos are from GasPatch Models part number GAS19-35167 https://www.gaspatchmodels.com/ which I think is more known for after-market piston engines for aircraft but does some excellent 1/35th stuff, the second is from Master Models part number GM-35-062 https://www.master-model.pl/ tossing up but I I’ll use Master Models as I reckon it has crisper detail and will better suit this type of mount.

Next step weather the inside and put in the supplies and equipment.

[enfield38]

That’s coming along nicely. Are you aware that the Aussie and Kiwi M125A1s had a variation on the forced air ventilation system installed on the driver’s side mortar hatch?

[jfeenstra]

@dmiles

I also noted in the photos that the pin marks are visible on the rotating mortar platform

Why don’t you sand the marks off? Those are just the attachment points from the 3D printing connections and can be cleaned up the same as sprue attachment points.

[dmiles]

I noted them after painting and I don’t really want to repaint just that small section prior to weathering the fighting compartment, but as mentioned, once the mount plate is rotated 90° it will not be noticeable.

[dmiles]

Aware, I just haven’t fitted it yet circled red in pic. Also, I will be fitting the AFV Club internal vent as the Hobby Link offering doesn’t look right.

[enfield38]

Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the finished build.

[SableLiger]

I wish Tamiya would reissue their M106A1 Mortar Carrier, or someone would make the updated M1064A3 version in styrene.

I swear, “Chucks” don’t get enough love in the modeling world.

[dmiles]

Just a short update.

I have weathered the interior using a mix of black and sepia ink, Vietnam Earth from Mig and a personal mix using Cement Australia Oxide Colouring powders, once I was happy with the colouring I went over the floor, edges and other various spots with a graphite pencil.

Next step is stowage; I have already made two 81mm mortar boxes and will add some additional items such as radio magazines and baggage.

[SSGToms]

That looks really excellent. That’s a great idea using coloring powders for dirt and stains instead of pigments, I’m sure they’re much less expensive. I’ve experimented with colored tile grout before for the same purposes, and groundwork. It worked well.

[metalhead85]

Excellent weathering on the interior of that track!

[dmiles]

the cement powders cost about 13.50 AUD or 8.75 USD for 500g or 1.1lb. I purchased four colours sandstone, marigold (yellow earth), red and dark brown and mix these to whatever shade of mud, dirt or dust I need. The upside, these will last me till I pop my clogs and easy to apply just mix with water or any liquid; downside, a bast*rd to remove once on. link to give you an idea just in case you want to track something similar down: https://www.mitre10.com.au/cement-australia-oxide-colouring?srsltid=AfmBOooMRmYKzel4rW8sxATTNWtFV6JcU-5Ttc1Q82GMv-qZfRP37wrE

[dmiles]

Thanks, just wanted to get this up before it got covered up.

[Pawel]

Hello! I like that interior a lot! Good luck with your build and have a nice day!

Paweł

[dmiles]

Cheers

[dmiles]

Another quick update, haven’t done much modelling over the pass 3 plus weeks as I was awaiting some items to arrive from Firestorm Models and painting the house.

I have added some stowage to he fighting compartment, these include some resin 81mm Mortar crates, Aust Late Version Gunshield 1968 (which I will use in place of the Hobby Link one), Vietnam Magazine covers, posters, newspapers and two figures - Letters from Home Vietnam ([https://firestormmodels.com/Australians-Reading…/…](https://firestormmodels.com/Australians-Reading…/…)).

I plan on having the ramp opened and the figures sitting on it reading

I also added a couple of Ratpack boxes (ration packs), map board, a sandbag (often used as a rubbish bag) located in the approx. area of final position, a tarp made from folded paper, a couple of blanket rolls from the spare box, a newspaper and MAD magazine. The last thing I shall add is a handset cable for the radio (but no handset as it won’t be seen after I place on the hull top).

I noted a few areas that need touching up along with a clean before the hull top goes on.

Since these photo I have removed the C ration pack box next to the ammo rack and inserted a radio

Thanks for dropping by.

[dmiles]

I have fitted the hull roof and glacis plate along with adding the weld seam between roof and hull, next I tackled the engine deck (photos 1 - 3). For this kit I am again using the Arms Corps offering and thought I would dry run it as I had to put in a < 0.5mm spacer to the FSV; boy was I wrong on a small spacer.

In photo 4 you will note a wide area of white, this is my spacer, next to the drivers hatch it is 1.5mm wide going down to just over 1mm. For the life of me I don’t know what the problem is but I suspect it is the hull roof as I mentioned there was not a significant issue with the deck on the FSV. Photos 5-6 show the deck insitu and it is sitting well you will not in photo 6 the forward part of the deck sits off of the glacis (I encountered this with the FSV also) but I reckon it has more to do with the angle of the deck rather than misalignment and it is quite easy to get it sitting correct. I have since covered the space with Mr surfacer and when dry sand it back, you may also note that one of the deck hinges is missing, this broke off while trying to figure out what I needed to do and fortunately for me it didn’t sail across the room never to be seen again, so that will be reattached prior to undercoating.

Since taking these photos I have played around with the fitting of the engine deck and noted a bump just in front of the vertical strip near the periscope removed that and files back the the spacer some it is now slightly over 1mm on the drivers side and put a 4mm x 0.5mm strip on the under the rear lip of the deck near the driver’s side; this has allowed the deck to back a bit and pulled the headlight mounting section in closer to the hull.

And i pinged off the other deck hinge but again not across the room, both now in a zip lock bag.

[mech]

The interior is impressive.

[dmiles]

Hobby Link do one

1/35 M106 Mortar Interior Conversion Set for Academy M113 kits Hobby Link HL0206

[dmiles]

Thanks, I did one change but forgot to photograph it, the ration box on the sponson next to the ammo rack was moved and a radio and shelf put in its place