This inverted glue bottle seems to be a recuring theme… 
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Indeed, I learned the hard way that the best anti-klutz device is a bigass blob of Bluetac under every glue/paint bottle on the workbench.
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Definitely, its the biggest hazard a model faces on my work bench. There probably half dozen additional spills that were close calls. 
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I’ve spilled Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting twice. Then I bought a DSPIAE 3 slot glue rack. It’s aluminum and spill proof. Luckily the glue didn’t reach any model parts, but it erased the printing on my cutting mat!
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Matt, that sounds so good!
…but it could be depleted uranium and as clumsy as I am, I’d find a way to spill it at some point!
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Related to Murphy as well? Hi cousin. 
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Only a couple. One was the Ilia Mourimetz whose fit and part quality issues made it not worth the effort and the Matchbox HE 70 which just did not look right once assembled so out it went
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This Tamiya M26 Pershing saved itself on Capt. Clumzie’s workbench just this morning…
…will have to add a liquid cement holder to the travel kit.
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Now THAT’S something you don’t see every day! Close, so close to destruction. You’re a lucky man, Wade Buff! Go out and buy a Lotto ticket.
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Same here. I just recently restarted a kit that has been stalled since 2016. It had paint issues and I had started getting deep into diorama modeling so it went back in the box for 9 years.
I’ll tell you what, my first camouflage paint job on a King Tiger was nerve wracking but its cake compared to a high gloss 2 tone…
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I have only binned one kit. That kit was the original Dragon Nashorn. The kit was a mess even after I put a large amount of after market parts on it still didn’t look close to the real thing. So I took it to the burn barrel, dumped a gallon of gas on it and watched it burn for a hour.
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I believe after the Dragon original Nashorn team leader was fired for that fiasco, he went into construction, specializing in staircases…
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That should be the guiding principle in almost everything. Unless you’re in a strip club on a street named after a president. Or a letter of the alphabet.
That said, I’ve never binned a kit during construction. I even made a very nice build out of the Lindberg T-55. It took a few years off my life, but I did it.
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Did not bin it -but I am going to give to my daughter to play with or paint it to her heart’s desire. MRC AH-1 Gold Cobra. (With Verlinden Interior, which is actually great.)
My first aircraft kit for a long while, so OK, glue mark from the extra thin Tamiya glue on the canopy -my bad, should not have used it. (The idea was great, but it ran to more places than just along the seams.)
But the decals are atrocious. Not to mention incomplete- you are supposed to paint the wings gold yourself, while trying to match the faded, transparent goldish color of the decals. It looks horrid. Due to the canopy issue I just gave up on it, so I am not going to convert it into a regular AH-1.
Good thing to know about the RFM sherman tracks -they look horribly overcomplicated in the instructions, so I am getting an aftermarket set for my sherman. Any suggestions? Or perhaps kits I can use tracks from? (Sometimes people sell those on ebay, too.)
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As I recall all RFM kits are HVSS.
For VVSS, if you can find Panda Plastic tracks are my go to.
Tasca/Auska makes some good rubber band tracks that you find on eBay from kit part resellers.
Lots of options for Sherman tracks.
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Yes, until this one released sometime fairly recently.
I believe there’s another on fairly recent too.
Speaking of the bin…not far from it…unless one gwts a good night’s sleep…
Fiddly…
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I saw BGT’s firerfly track story and looked into RFM sherman’s manual on scalemates, darn it. From now on I will never buy that kit. 
p.s last year, I built RFM T-55A kit, This workable tracks takes too much time and stresses me out.
And talk about bin, Iirc I trashed a few kits. Panda hobby’s BMD-1 kit. the manual’s drawing and parts numbers are not matched every pages. so I got mad and bang! dumped. and trumpeters SU-152 kit. the hull and turret not alligned straight. so I dumped it too.
Now, My modeling skills are gradually but slowly increasing, so I am trying my best to make it so that it won’t be thrown away.
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Workable tracks.
I don’t bother with trying to keep them workable.
I glue them solid. As soon as I have shaped each section to fit properly
they get glued and immobilised.
Trying to keep them workable is simply too much trouble.
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A model kit is supposed to relax you, not stress you out. For Sherman VVSS tracks, they are “live” tracks anyway and curl in on themselves. There is no sag anywhere, so there is really no need to get indy tracks as long as you can find high quality one piece tracks. Asuka make very good one piece tracks. You can buy them separately.
If you want individual VVSS tracks, I highly recommend Masterclub, if you can find them nowadays.
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