Hey fellas, quick question this time.
I’m working on my scrap Tiger II, and I got some scrap workable tracks to go with it, but, not only did I have to make it out of more links than the real Tiger II had, it doesn’t really wrap around the sprocket like it should:
Use painters tape to put the top run out and get the proper sag dialed it, I typically use metal tracks to get the sag just right, but with plastic or 3D printed tracks, te tape helps
First you need to fit the track to the upper part of the sprocket, sometimes it just sits in place and sometimes requires some force.
Then remove the peaks making the track flat like in the photo forcing the joints, you may need carefully use of pliers or tweezers.
Once done you may find that you have to remove one or two links to have the correct shape.
Personally, I am not much concerned about the number of track links, just focus on whether the track as a whole looks right or not.
Wait so basically I need to make them no longer workable? 
Well, at least for me they are workable until they get the shape I want, then I would not touch them any more, and even glue them in place…But that’s me, others may do differently
As Reynier says above, using Friulmodel or other metal tracks is easier in that sense, their own weight helps a lot.
I see
Well, I got these (not very good) T-Rex tracks way back when I just started, and this is a scrap model anyway, so I don’t really need them to be workable
But I do worry when I get to my actual Tiger II model, A Ryefield one, that comes with workable pin tracks, that I’ll encounter the same problem…
Well, if the RFM workable Tiger tracks have the same problem, I’ll just get metal tracks, I guess
But I hate working with metal tracks! My acrylic primer doesn’t stick to them at all, and I never managed to find an acrylic metal primer in my area
Alright ramble over, thank you!
I typically use SanXin brand metal tracks because the alloy they use takes the blackening solution really well; then is just a matter of drybrushing in the rust, dust and dirt.
As seen on my RFM T-55A Mod 1981
On my Tamiya Sturmtiger… (was dialing the sag when I took this picture).
On the other side. I use R-Model tracks for when i really want them to be rusty. just run a sanding stick to reveal the worn-out metal for that nice effect.
Like on my Tamiya M51 Israeli Sherman.
