Some time ago, I first placed my topic about my Sd. Kfz. 9 Famo in constructive feedback.
I got a lot of constructive and positive feedback.
Including suggestions and such about Filler and Putty to fill gaps.
But I have never used these kinds of product.
Never bought it before.
The store I want to purchase it from is only reachable by e-mail.
And they don’t always provide the right advice.
As I had bought the wrong paint to seal my paint job and other stuff.
So I’ 'm feeling it is best to ask it here.
So, what could you tell me about the products that are on this page?
I’m also wanting to prime again before I paint my models.
I believe it makes the painting process much easier to do then without primer.
Anyway, I hope you can help me with this.
You are opening a couple of cans of worms here. Everyone has an opinion, and often not the same! Be prepared!
I have used both Mr Surfacer and Tamiya Fine Grey Primers as well as others not mentioned here (Vallejo, etc). My personal preference is the Tamiya one but Mr S is really just as good, and both are far better than the others I tried. I use the rattle can myself, where I can, as I hate cleaning primer out of my airbrush and it is so much easier just getting the can out instead of unpacking the compressor etc.
I have used Plasto putty and Mr white Putty, but in my opinion, neither are as good as Tamiya grey putty which unfortunately is not an option on your website. For fine gaps and where I do not want to lose detail I use Perfect Plastic Putty as this can be wiped down with a wet Q tip or paper towel to remove the excess - it does not bite into the plastic. However, for that same reason, it is not good for joints that may flex as it can crack and fall out.
Good luck in your search. I hope you find something that suits your needs.
I am currently using Humbrol:
Which is not bad, but as Peter said I prefer Tamiya Grey (which I could not get). They are both similar, apply with spatula and sand until you get the desired finish.
I use also Vallejo:
Which is good for small gaps, as you apply and clean the excess with a wet brush or finger.
Each one has their use and both are useful.
As for primers, I do like to use them. Which one is better will depend if you have an airbrush or not.
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Thank you for your reply so soon.
And I’m hearing a lot that it comes down to my own preferences and my own tastes.
Maybe I just have to use some of the products for some projects and see how it comes along?
I guess I’m wanting to prevent that I make mistakes and errors.
And that I want to avoid that I’m losing money as projects fail.
But I’m now guessing that I just have to start with something, instead of constantly asking questions.
As it comes mostly down to my personal preferences.
Thanks for replying.
I find having a couple putties on hand is good. I’ll use mr surfacer 500 for thin gaps, and punch marks, something like milliput for larger gaps. Though my new favourite gap filling technique is stretched sprue.
For primer I use badger stnylrez but any good primer will do, the key with primer is very light coats or it will swallow detail
As I understand, it isn’t bad to use a combination of multiple products for different purposes.
I have an airbrush and I have used Revell Basic Color out a rattle can.
But I didn’t really like how much paint and other stuff it brings up in the air.
Giving my spray booth a lot more to suck up to get it out in the outside air and filtrate everything.
So I’m wanting to try it to use it instead of my airbrush.
Any suggestions for primers for use in the airbrush?
And do I have to thin primers to use them in the airbrush?
With the Revell Basic Color primer it said, spray in one layer to cover everything.
Or something like that, spray it on in one layer.
But I’m finding it hard to use rattle can primers as I have less control over where the primer goes.
And, it releases a lot more in the air.
Giving my spray booth a lot more to extract.
I use badger stnylrez in my airbrush. It goes on really nice and cures to a good hard primer layer.
Only issue I’ve had is it dries in the tip a lot, but bumping pressure up to 40 PSI helps alleviate that
Yes, I find also that airbrush primer is easier to control. I can not recommend any of the ones on your store, as Vallejo primer is not my favourite and have not used any of the others… Like Mead93 above, I use Stnylrez (Ammo One Shot version, in fact).
As for products, yes, sometimes is better to use different ones for different tasks. And the same I have my preferences, you will have yours and the only way to find it is through trial and error, I bet we all have a stock of products we did not like as much as we expect.
EDIT:
This is the primer I use:
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Okay, thanks for the tip.
Regarding putty,
Tamiya Basic Putty thinned with a quality Liquid Cement works very well. I prefer the slower LC’s to thin the putty with. I use a small paint brush to apply. It will thin out to basically paint if needed. Excellent product, recommended.
Molak Stucco Putty thinned with a quality Liquid Cement is outstanding. I prefer the slower LC’s to thin the putty with. I use a small paint brush to apply. It will thin like paint if needed. Excellent for hairline seams. Actually just a little better than Tamiya in my experience.
Hard to find but highly recommended.
Mr Surfacer 500 is also an excellent filler. Wipe with Q-tip dampened in Mr Surfacer Leveling thinner to remove excess. Highly recommended
Medium Super Glue aka CA glue in spot or seam to be filled with a small application of super glue accelerator is an excellent filler as well. Will need sanding etc. Long it sits after accelerator is applied the hard to sand it gets.
Regarding, the paint I still use enamels like the old Floquil brand. If I was starting out all over again, I would focus on a quality brand that’s readily available. I think Tamiya would be my choice and I’d use their lacquer thinner for best results. The mixing part would a a little annoying at first but becoming familiar with that will help advance paint knowledge over the long run.
BTW - a lot of fit & seam issues come from parts not being meticulously cleaned of mold seams, attachment points, flash, or punch marks. Sometimes even a slight burr will cause issues.
Thanks for the tip, I take a look at Mr. Hobby’s products.