What is a ‘buss bar’?
I must note here we are hiring the house from a housing corporation.
If only Rod Hull had one, Emu would still be annoying us today!
(The kiddies may need to google it…)
Maybe this would help?
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Can’t begin to count how many of those things I have in my apartment. They really help to expand outlet capacity.
—mike
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Wow lots of these in house, lots of fire hazards then,
The ones I have feature a built in circuit breaker to avoid an overload.
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You probably do, with justsendit comment, house full of them, I just see fire starter.
Buy one from a large (large assets company). If you have a fire you can sue them.
@ Frank. What would you recommend… candlelight?
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Just get one from a reputable company. I usually buy a heavy duty one, not a cheap plastic one. Some tool companies also make them and they should hold up well.
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Just seen to many fires , started by them in old barrack blocks, and now, old houses, not having enough sockets, in each room to satisfy todays needs, 
The direction of the light is as important as how strong it is or whether or not it is “daylight balanced.”
With a single point source of strong light, it’s best to have it located slightly behind and above your head. Even though the light coming through the single window may not be direct sunlight (that is, it is “indirect”), the rest of the interior is so dark that it is much stronger than the interior ambient lighting.
In the dark interior room, you are better off sitting with the window behind you. If this is not possible, then sitting with the window to your side with your head angled as much as possible away from the window is the next best. Sitting facing directly at the window is the worst possible (this puts the side of the work that you see in the shadow of the light coming from the window).
If you can add more interior lighting, the overall strength of that light must be greater than the light from the window to compensate for it (that is to make the side of the work you see not in any sort of shadow from the window light).
If this is not possible, then the window needs some sort of semi-transparent curtain to soften and diffuse the light coming through it (to mitigate its shadow creating strength). The brighter interior light is still best positioned above and slightly behind your head.
The sunlight coming through the window will give you the truest view of the colors you are using. Nothing is better than real sunlight for showing true colors.
Artificial interior light is best provided by “day light balanced” bulbs (that come in incandescent, florescent, and LED versions). The package for the light bulb should have the “Kelvin temperature” rating listed on it, and this is how close the bulb’s light is to natural sunlight is measured. Alternatively, the bulb package will simply state that the bulb is “daylight balanced” or that it gives “true daylight colors” or some other such description.
You may need to rearrange the stuff stored in the shed to allow you to position your worktable and chair with your back to the window. If this is not possible, then a darker curtain should be used over the window so that the artificial interior lighting is the brightest light source in the room. Again, it will be best positioned above and slightly behind your head.
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@ SdAufKla. Very well stated. One thing… I avoid incandescent bulbs due to their external heat being directed at my head. Also, they tend to dry-up paints when hand painting, even when using a wet palette.
@ Frank. I get that. it’s not like I’m overloading power strips with clusters of plugs or daisy-chaining them together. In fact, I take pride in my cable management and regard for safety.
Example: At my airbrush station, there is one wall outlet which allows two plugs. I use a a power strip w/surge protection to facilitate power to the following devices.
• Airbrush Compressor
• Spray Booth
• Overhead Lamp
In order to take said power strip out of the system, which one of the three devices should be unplugged during an airbrush session?
Stay safe and happy modeling.
—mike
That’s ok, my output of them here, is around 9 amps and that’s less as that’s the fuze rating of 13 for plug, the actual pull is even less once all on, then the actual amps each item is fused for.
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Thats the key element here, keep the amps at or below what that outlet and circuit are rated for. Florescent and LED lighting use way less power than incandescent lights. Small air compressors for airbrushes use less power than a big shop compressor. If you use quality components, and don’t go over the amp rating for the circuit, you won’t have a fire hazard.
Another thing to think about. I do most of my painting in the garage, which was very dark to begin with. I painted the wall behind my paint station white, which greatly increased the brightness of the whole area. This summer I want to paint more of the walls white, it really helps.
Ken
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Get a air tank and forgo the compressor if you need to reduce electric load in the area.
That window is the only that is able to open. The rest is all wall. And I need the window open to allow the extraction hose to suck out the fumes and what not from spraying. I might when I have time try some things out. But I’m not seeing it to bright. I’am very limited in my possibilities because I still live with my parents. And I can’t do things on own decision. I have to ask them if they agree, otherwise I can’t do it. I’m currently bussy with finishing a lot of things. And today I was working on the tracks of the Famo. And tried the tips and tricks I got from here. But discovered that I need to do searching on the internet to help me get a even better understanding of what I’m wanting to do. So that will take up time as well. But will hopefully safe me time in the long term. I’am already using those things you are all showing.
I use a hose from spray booth out the window, but I have a sheet of clear plastic with a hole in it, to the diameter of the hose to keep heat in and cold out, fits in the window when its open.