New Faustus Models releases – 1/35 M4 Sherman VVSS “LAZY TRACKS”
This is partial text from the full article (usually with photos) at https://armorama.com/news/m4-sherman-vvss-lazy-tracks-by-faustus-models
This is partial text from the full article (usually with photos) at https://armorama.com/news/m4-sherman-vvss-lazy-tracks-by-faustus-models
6 Likes
If these come all in one piece are they basically 3D printed rubber band tracks? If anyone has used them I would kindly appreciate a heads up on how they work.
1 Like
Looking at them, the trick will be getting them over the return rollers and roadwheels. I think it may be a case of leaving the bogies off the hull, placing them into the track, then offering up the whole thing to the hull and adding glue. I have a friend printing a set so will let you all know how it goes!
(The other alternative is to cut them at a joint so it becomes easy to slip the broken loop over the bogies afterwards, the way I do with DML indies etc.)
5 Likes
Hopefully, the T62 set is the proper length for the M4A4 hull, since that’s virtually the only M4 variation that had these during their factory construction.
Yeah…I think the modeler would have to put these on along with the suspension units. This is what I have done with the no longer available SC3D individual link 3D tracks that I have ever used.
Otherwise, as long as the detail is superior to band-type tracks, particularly regarding the end connectors, the time saved vs. the result obtained, ought to be worth the effort.
4 Likes
The Cults page says they are for M4A1-A3, so not long enough for the M4A4 hull. IIRC the British use T62s on some of their M10 TDs. I wonder if you could splice two sets together, adding the extra two links on the top and bottom runs, to get the right length? That would also create a break (two, actually) that would allow the track to be slid into place after the suspension is attached…
2 Likes
The boss of our AZ AMPS chapter printed up a few sets recently and brought them into a meeting. They look really nice in person! And yes, install them with your bogies, drive sprocket and idler wheel as a single unit onto the hull.
I swear this 3D printing stuff is a huge boon for our hobby.
4 Likes
I’m a bit late to all this 3D printed stuff, can you use like Tamiya thin on these or do you need to use CA for these 3D printed items?
1 Like
Printed resin parts need CA glue, as solvents won’t touch them. But these Lazy Tracks come as a complete “band” so don’t need any glue - they are effectively trapped by the wheels & sprockets the same way vinyl “rubber band” tracks are trapped rather than glued.
2 Likes
My friend dropped off a set of the T48s and I’m not so sure about them. As I feared there’s no way to fit an assembled sprocket into them - I’ll need to grab another set of sprocket halves to assemble around the tracks. Then there’s a width issue - they do not fit over the return roller on my Academy bogies because the back-to-back distance of the guide teeth is too narrow. This can be tackled with a little filing, but is annoying. I’ll use them eventually, but it’s not the “lazy” option I’d hoped for…
2 Likes
You’re having that issue because your suspension is already glued to the tank, correct?
I still think the “Lazy” tag is a pretty good marketing ploy 
1 Like
Thanks a lot for the feedback and for the detailed discussion — this is genuinely helpful.
A quick clarification from our side: the Lazy Tracks are designed from original technical references and 3D scan data, with accuracy to the real track geometry as the priority. Because of that, fit can vary depending on the specific kit manufacturer, tooling age, and how closely the kit matches original dimensions.
So if a set needs minor adjustment on a particular kit, that does not necessarily mean the track set is incorrect — in many cases it comes from kit-specific tolerances / simplifications. You can also warm them up slightly using warm water or a hairdryer, which makes them quite flexible and easier to install.
Our goal with Lazy Tracks is:
- realistic track detail and sag
- much faster installation vs. individual links
- plug-and-play behavior on many common kits
That said, some older or simplified kits may still require small adjustments depending on sprocket/roller geometry and assembly sequence.
Installation order matters, as the kits description says: you should first fit in the sprocket and return roller and then add it to the vehicle itself.
Really appreciate everyone sharing their experience — this kind of feedback helps us improve compatibility notes and recommendations.
2 Likes
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the info! I’m fitting it to Academy parts (with the sprocket padded out to the correct width as they made theirs 1mm too narrow!) and the parts are not yet on the hull so I have the chance to fit them to the track first. I have a fresh set of sprocket halves so these can be “clamped" around the track - that’s not a problem now that I know about it. The return rollers fouling the guide horns is more tricky - I not only had to carefully scrape the inner faces (to widen the gap) but also had to sand the tips off the horns because they hit the roller hub. I only did this on the teeth that are in the way, so it was easy enough to adjust.
At present the tracks and replacement sprocket are in primer waiting for a coat of paint, so final assembly may wait til the weekend -I’ll post pics.
One thing I would say is these might be easier to fit if they came as two parts - the “upper run” from sprocket to idler above the rollers, and a “lower run” to add after the bogies etc are glued to the hull.
3 Likes