I have painted the body shell of Protar’s Fiat 1500 racer with Tamiya TS-8 (Italian Red), having frist applied a suitable primer coat.
The next step has been to spray the white race numbers through vinyl masks. However once removed, the masks have lifted the red paint and primer in certain areas. I now have to rub down and re-apply the primer and red, and start again.
Can anyone suggest a fool-proof method to prevent this from happening?
Here’s how I would go about that painting sequence.
1-Prepare the body shell by a lite sanding. I use a wet pc of Tamiya 3,000 sponge or a pc of 3,400 MicroMesh to give the primer something to bite into. Damp wipe the surface with Iso Alcohol and then a wipe with a tack cloth.
2- I’m not a Rattle can user but lite even coats to build up the color coat. Give it 3-5 min between coats. After the final color coat, give the body a full 24 hours to dry and cure.
3- the last issue is the amount of sticky glue on the back of the masks. I always detack even Tamiya tape 1st. You want the least amount of glue as possible to prevent pulling up the paint and or primer. Mask and burnish down the edges.
4- Lite even coats of White till you build up the color intensity. Let the paint dry for 15 min as long as it seems dry, carefully remove the mask. Easy does it.
You never mentioned what primer you used. Tamiya Gray primer in a rattle can is perfect for your application. I even use it for certain small jobs.
In other words, stick it on your forearms a few times. The natural oils on your skin will render most masks just the right amount of tackiness. Also, although you don’t mention paint leaking under your mask, it’s always a good idea to seal the masks with a light coat of clear. That way subsequent colors won’t bleed thorugh.
I hear so many various primer horror stories I stick to Tamiya rattle cans now. The new red oxide is a fantastic primer for Italian red BTW Though if you are doing a red and white scheme I’d be tempted to do white on white primer first then mask for the red.
As I said, I do detack my Tamiya tapes except the 1,2 & 3mm tape sizes as they’re way to small to worry about them pulling any paint or decals up.
But I don’t use my forearm or worse my forehead, as an excess of body oils/sweat can cause paint issues. I simply tape my cutting mat in a clean space pull the tape up, and it a 2nd time. Tape sticky side is still perfectly clean.
the only primers I use and never had any issues with are pure lacquer based: Tamiya gray and white that I mix 50/50, and Gunze 1500 Black and White. I do use their 500 gray but strickly as a fine filler.
What was the primer you used?
Keith said that he used Tamiya Gray primer in the rattle can which makes it lacquer based.
I was questioning what pbennett used as “suitable primer” as he does not specify.
Hint from Joel, if you want to strip and start again, use denatured alcohol with the Tamiya spray paint.
Don’t ask why I know…