Not a Moment to Lose... Battle of the Bulge, Ardennes, December 1944

Sorry, that was a bit of a boring post.

Just to finish the basics on the Schwimm… here are some shots of the finished model before the paint went on.

The figure was an early attempt at the driver, but I wasn’t happy with the pose so you will see him replaced in the later shots.

The only other part of the build that I found challenging was the fold-down top. The Aber set tells you how to make the supports from bent wire, but it looks like an absolute nightmare - and there’s still no tarp! The Tamiya moulded version isn’t bad, but it just looks too much like a lump of plastic. So I hacked it about a bit and then added to it with Tamiya putty and some photoetch buckles and straps. We will have to see how it looks once the paint starts to go on…

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On with the paint!



Because my projects tend to take around 3 years, by the time I get round to airbrushing vehicles again I have pretty much forgotten how to do it. So I have to learn the process all over again and usually start with plenty of mistakes.

Once I had primed both models with Mr Surfacer I decided to stick with Tamiya paints and thinners for the top coats. The last WW2 German vehicle I painted was this Italian Stug about 5 years ago.

The red primer undercoat and the chipping method were all the rage back then, but I was never quite happy with the results. I used Tamiya Dark Yellow XF-60 for the base colour, but it ended up a bit too grey because I was going for a faded Mediterranean look and kept adding Buff to the mix.

Although hardly new, this time I thought I would try out the ‘improved’ Tamiya Dark Yellow 2 XF-88 for German armour. Both the 250 and the Schwimm had a couple of coats of the standard colour (mixed with Tamiya Yellow top thinner and a few drops of Semi-Gloss Clear X-35 varnish. I then added a few drops of white and went for light overspray in a random cloud pattern, focussing on the highlights.

I’m actually very pleased with the result, with the Schwimm turning out looking slightly paler and lighter than the 250, which helps to make them visually more interesting.

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Those paint jobs look outstanding Tim

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Yep, really great colour work Tim, and the PE stuff on the Schwimmwagen is outstanding :clap:. That interior post wasn’t at all boring, just lost for more words of praise of your exemplary process :face_without_mouth:. The Tamiya (re-work) is still a great kit. Surprising Dragon haven’t had a go at a 1/35 kit of the VW Typ.166 after the old 1/6 version. :thinking:

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Very nice. The effect on the Schwimm is really good, some great tones on it.

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Still very closely following this - and really liking everything! I am likewise extremely slow with getting around to throw paint on things, but you’ve done great with these two vehicles, as well as the subtle tone differences on the two!

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Thanks Richard. It’s trial and error but I’m getting there in the end!

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Thanks John.

The Schwimm is such an iconic (and classy) little vehicle, I’m surpised as well. I still remember the old Italeri version with the Luftwaffe pilot figure demonstrating a dog fight!

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Thanks Johnny!

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To camouflage or not to camouflage?

To be honest, I had not given much thought to how I was going to finish the two German vehicles beyond the standard dunkelgelb. Should they stay in the basic colour or be camouflaged?

Although I am not an obsessive when it comes to historical accuracy, since this diorama portrays an incident early in the Ardennes offensive I have tried to capture the essence of the time and place.

There are surprisingly few images of halftracks from the campaign, apart from the field full of wrecks taken near La Gleize, and when you do see them they tend to be 251s. I found this shot of a rather sorry looking 250, which I believe is taken near the same location, but, there is so much snow that there isn’t much to go on.

However, there are plenty of shots of 250s and Schwimms from the famous newsreel taken at Kaiserbaracke Crossroads.

I have referenced this footage several times already: you can find it in many places on Youtube (often as part of documentaries) and repeated watching is worthwhile.

Obviously the quality is not great (although I bet Peter Jackson could clean it up like he did with all those WW1 films that he worked on), but if you take some screenshots and look closely some interesting details emerge.

Looking closely at the 250 behind these two characters (who both appear in the iconic close-ups of of the Schwimm taken during the same sequence) you can see that the nose plate appears to have a distinctive camo pattern. So it appears that these 250s, despite being relatively new and issued for a Winter campaign, were finished in the standard three-colour scheme.

It’s even possible to read the registration plate: 929326. However, what is equally interesting is what you can’t see - the SS runes are not there. In case anyone thinks that this is internet censorship, remember that this is a still from cine film. In fact, from what I understand, Kampfgruppe Hansen deliberately painted over the runes to disguise the fact that they were part of the 1st SS Panzer Division LSSAH.

Here is a restored vehicle in much the same scheme - and with the same registration - although I don’t know if other details, such as the four brackets (for hanging spare track?) are accurate or not.

Anyway, once I had joined these dots I decided that this would be the finish for my 250. This camo pattern is also very close to some of the images of factory-fresh 250s taken in 1944.

The above pictures, along with others, appear in the excellent Panzer Tracts 15-1 which I have already referenced above.

So this is what I decided to attempt to recreate…

As I have said, my airbrush skills are rusty and I honestly don’t think I have attempted anything like this since I was in my mid-teens back in the 80s. Once again I went with the ‘new’ Tamiya acrylics, this time Dark Green 2 XF-89 and Red Brown 2 XF-90. Reminding myself to keep the air pressure as low as possible (around 5 psi), the paint as thin as possible (using Tamiya orange cap retarder lacquer thinner way beyond the 50% ratio) and the nozzle close to the model, I started…

Here is the outcome of my first attempt.

Now I have to admit, at first, that I was quite pleased with the results. Sure, there was plenty of blotching and some spatter here and there - but this is supposed to be a scheme applied, in the real world, with a spray gun by an amateur in a hurry… not an artist. It was also pre-washes and any weathering.

However, looking at it over a few hours and comparing it to the photos of the real thing, I grew unhappy with what I had done. Ironically, I think that it just looked too ‘artistic’: the gaps between the squiggles were to regular and the squiggles themselves too narrow.

So I took a deep breath and had a second go, adding to what I had already laid down. This time I was much happier with the way it turned out.

I finished this stage of the painting my giving the whole exterior a light misting of a lightened version of the base coat, as well as highlighting some of the panel lines, and then covered everything with a coat of semi-gloss varnish.

Now don’t judge me too harshly here. There is still a long way to go.

And yes, I know the number plate isn’t exactly right (I even lost part of the first number when I removed the masking tape). It was the best I could find from my spares stash. Also the loading stencil is clearly wrong - it’s for a Fiat! But that’s all I had and this side of the halftrack will be almost impossible to see once it’s on the diorama…

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Looks great! Keep on painting!

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I’m no expert on Bulge-camo - apart from camouflaging the occasional bulge but that’s not important right now. It would be reasonable to assume that most units, when informed of the masterplan (with only a day or two’s notice), would immediately cover their summer/autumn-scheme vehicles with coniferous branches to traverse the Ardennes. I’m not sure how many also had the foresight to carry some tins of whitewash too. In other words, I for one have no argument with what you’ve done, looks excellent :+1:

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When the Bulge kicked off on 16th December, it wasn’t snowing, so your scheme is bang on. Once it started snowing no one had the time to worry about snow camouflage…

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Thanks for the comments guys…

Although the 250 is not quite finished, as you see I have made a lot of progress. Best of all I have the wheels and tracks on and the tarp and MG mounts in place. Without these it looks a little forlorn (like many you see in Panzerwrecks). With them IMO it looks the biz! I hope you agree…

These photos aren’t the best - the model looks much better with decent all-round lighting - but they show the results of the weathering process. This was mostly textbook stuff.

I started with a wash of Abteilung 502 Brown Wash (over the semi-gloss finish) which was left to dry for a few days. After the wash, the model tends to look rather glossy and unreal, so I knocked this down with a light spray of Mig Matt ‘Lucky Varnish’. This stuff is great, because you can spray it straight out of the bottle and cleaning the airbrush has never been easier!

This was followed by chipping. Rather lazily I started with Mig Light Wood - it’s just a decent lighter shade (a sort of yellow/grey) that adds contrast to all areas, whether they be the original dark yellow finish or the camo colours. This was partly done with the sponge technique, but mostly with a fine brush.

It was then a matter of adding darker chips - some with dark grey to suggest chips through to the metal, others with red brown to represent shallower chips that only reached the primer coat. In a few places I then added a metallic element with Mig Gun Metal and a sharpened graphite pencil.

Sorry I couldn’t be bothered to take step-by-step photos of this process, but I hope you get the general idea. Although you cannot really see it in these images, I also added dried and wet mud to the underside using a variety of Vallejo acrylic and Wilder products (the latter sadly no longer available).

There’s still a way to go, but I don’t want to finish the weathering process until I get the Schwimm up to speed (already underway!). Also, it’s crucial to ensure that the tones used for the vehicles sit well with the colours used on the groundwork (which is still not complete). I’m going to wait until I have everything about 95% finished before I decide how dark to go with the terrain and - most importantly - how cold and damp I want it to look.

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I think/feel this is really fantastic. I especially like the ground work plants and I’m amazed to hear it’s not done yet. I have read that alot of armored vehicles didn’t survive long enough to show a lot of wear and tear, but if I wanted to show tires that were worn down by half of their lifespan, how would you do that? The vehicle’s front wheels look showroom new, just dirty. Would track pads likely show more wear than tires or not. This might be more applicable to logistics vehicles or recce cars,but I’d still like to hear how you might accomplish this. Thanks.

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Tim this is beautifully done! Lovely build, painting and weathering! All of it looks spot on! It’s already fantastic but it’s going to be an amazing diorama when you get it all together!

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Outstanding job on the half track Tim!

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Well we are definitely making progress!

Before anyone gets too excited (including myself), none of the vehicles are fixed to the base and they have yet to be properly bedded in and weathered. But the 250 and Schwimm are more or less finished.

The Schwimm still awaits a painted driver (and hence a steering wheel).

The last bits on the 250 are a bit hard to spot…

The width indicators are from Aber. As for the towing cable, finding the right thickness of twisted wire was easy enough, but the towing eyes were a real challenge to track down. Eventually I found the right size in this excellent 3D printed set:

It’s clearly designed for Panthers, Tigers, etc - but the small eyes (presumably for the thin cable used to fit the track) are just right.

The aerial will be left to the last minute (otherwise I just know that I will break it) and there is still the rest of the foliage to be added.

It appears that 250s built this late in the war came with wires for mounting foliage as standard. They are clearly visible on the images I posted above and especially behind the handsome fellow in the shot below:

It’s also interesting to see how far the width indicators were able to bend!

For the wires on my model I used this excellent product.

Designed for rigging small-scale ships it is very easy to thread through tie-down cleats and can even be tied like the real thing. It is also elasticated, which means that I can insert the foliage behind it.

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Width indicators remind me of those old curb feelers on the old cars. Oops, showing my age again. Wayne

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Those vehicles look outstanding Tim. Fantastic paint job and weathering!
I noticed on the license plate of the 251 that the SS is missing before the numbers, it appears scratched out.

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