Oils: What am I doing wrong?

Congratulations! I assume time for the workshop will be changing soon. Get some rest

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@vettejack that is VERY impressive. I admire your skills.

@amoz02t you were more right than I realized…finally got a free hour to make progress here. Still only have the green camo on the wing upper surfaces done.

Still not entirely happy with how the paint separates from the solvent and tries to dry with a “cracked” or flaky appearance, but it’s a learning experience.

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You just have to remember that “less is more”. The less oils on your shortened brush, the better. By the time you wipe away your oils off the brush, there should no indication that you have any oils on it. Then magically, the oils appear on your build to the exact spot you wish the application to appear. It’s even better than an airbrush. Just be "dainty’ with the application. Like I said, less is more.

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Congratulations……it should slow down in about….22 years.

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Congratulations!
:teddy_bear:

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Dumb question, but did you apply a gloss coat first? Photos look kind of matt to me.

:beer:

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Congrads on your half million $ bundle!

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Thanks! It’s not our first, which makes things pretty wild. Not even evenings are safe for hobbies anymore! But of course I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

No. Gloss coat for decals, then matte coat. That was intentional. The tutorials I was seeing said gloss coat if you want paint only in the recesses (more like a traditional wash) but a matte coat if you want to shade and modulate the colors, which is what I want to do.

When I do the clean, factory fresh Mustang prototype, I’ll likely do a gloss coat and Payne’s gray wash.

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Definitely agree, but at the same time a satin varnish works just fine as well. It gives you a bit more workableness so that you’re not rushing before the oils bites into the matt varnish. That might help a little while you get the hang of things.

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Thanks for the tip. That sounds like exactly what I need.

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All this talk about time to dry and working the oils. Spray the model with matte clear very dry so it forms a rough “toothed” surface then literally scrub soft oil pastel pigments into the rough surface. 15-20 minites later and you are done!

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