Reviving Enamel Paints

If I remember correctly XYLOL is listed as an ingredient on my Model Master paints, after reading your post Wade @Armor_Buff I decided to look into xylol-xylene (paint stripper) and the SDS (safety data sheet) is a little scary if not downright frightening, funny thing is I’ve been around these chemicals all my life without much consideration to their potential hazards, ah the ignorance of youth. When I think of all the flammable, toxic, caustic or noxious stuff in my house I feel like I should notify my local Fire Department of the deadly and possibly explosive compounds stored there-in just to make them aware.
Anyway, moving along here, something I’ve learned with Floquil, Clear Gloss at least, is that mineral spirits nor Naptha is a suitable thinner, it tends to catalyze with one of Floquils ingredients and turn the paint into a gummy mixture, thankfully I was able to clean the AB before it gummed up the works so to speak. I’m curious about your use of Xylol, is it a jellied solvent like paint stripper or more fluid like thinner? also curious how it might affect Tamiya filler putty, I’ve been using mineral spirits to thin that but not overly enthused with the results.

Cajun :crocodile:

@agincajun Terry,

I’m using the Lowe’s/Home Depot stuff from the paint section. It’s a thin liquid for reducing enamel paint.

The MSDS is usually scary :fearful: for most chemicals. With gloves, respirator, good ventilation & eye protection and good work practice, I think the health risk can be minimal. One facility I used to work at used a chemical so hazardous it required full Hazmat gear for the folks moving the chemical. Spotters & a Fire department offical had to be present when it was off loaded. We were told Sarin nerve gas was less deadly:)

The Acrylic is more dangerous than generally realized when sprayed due to small particle size of pigments etc. Even dust from dirt or sand and grain dust are hazardous at certain levels of exposure.

I didn’t know Floquil, Clear Gloss had issues with mineral spirits and Naptha. The only gloss I’ve used was Floquil Crystal Coat thinned with,Floquil Military Color thinner. The Floquil flats RailRoad & FMC work fine in my experience with mineral spirits and Naptha as thinners. Been doing that since the early 1990’s without issue.

Tamiya filler putty, which one? There’s a gray colored Basic & a white Polyester Putty. Not a fan of the Polyester putty but the Tamiya Basic Gray putty is outstanding. it thins almost like paint with Testor’s Liquid Cement also thins well with Tamiya Extra Thin. Never tried thinning it mineral spirits.

Try thinning the Tamiya Basic Putty with Liquid Cement. I think you’ll be pleased.

Molak Stucco Putty is even finer than Tamiya Basic Putty and will thin like paint with,Testor’s Liquid Cement. Molak will thin out so well it could probably be sprayed.

I have seen people mention this stuff before, but where do you get it?
Ken

Verlinden used to import it. I’ve been ordering it off of ebay direct from Italy.

Many will say it costs too much for what it is. I’ve found it to be indispensable.

Another modeler showed me Molak will thin and lay down so fine it can be applied like paint to make parts look like they belong together. Example tow shackle pinnacles attached to cast hull. A thin layer of Molak Stucco usually makes makes that attachment look more realistic. Heavy applications of liquid cement aren’t as subtle.

I have an old Testor’s Liquid Cement bottle with half a tube of Stucco in it and half full of Testor’s Liquid Cement. Let’s me keep the other half of the tube sealed up for long life. I like to used thinned Molak Stucco for Zimmerit too.

Molak Stucco Putty

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That price actually does not look bad at all!
Ken

“I’ve been using mineral spirits to thin that but not overly enthused with the results” . . .

My bad, I’ve taken a break from the workbench last couple months and litteraly forgot I’d tried liquid cement, you’re right the liquid cement works well with Tamiya’s (basic) filler, I have tried mineral spirits as well though with not good results. I’ve been experimenting with AK laquers lately but frankly the enamels are what I’m most familiar with and I tend to favor them. Thanks for your input about xylol I didn’t know it was so easily available.

Cajun :crocodile:

Just an FYI for any old timers out there who might still be squirting Floquil paints (I have a fairly large stash of them that I still use for some projects):

Xylene is also the main ingredient in Floquil Model RR Color thinner, which is, of course impossible to find these days. Add a dash of lacquer thinner to it, and you have a mixture that is nearly the same as the original Floquil thinner.

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