New Rye Field Model 1/35 Sd.Kfz. 234/1 and Tiger Mid production with clear hull, both with interior.
This is partial text from the full article (usually with photos) at https://armorama.com/news/rfm-transparent-tiger-mid-and-sd-kfz-234-1
This is partial text from the full article (usually with photos) at https://armorama.com/news/rfm-transparent-tiger-mid-and-sd-kfz-234-1
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No clear 88 mm barrel? What if I want to spend hours gazing at the beautiful rifling?
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I’ve got RFM’s Panther G in my stash which also has clear parts included. I quite like the idea of being able to see it all when assembled, but one thought troubles me. How do you treat the components that will be glued to the inside of the clear parts (and there are going to be quite a few). You can hardly paint them then glue them, either the paint will come off or they won’t stick. Could someone who has completed one of these advise please?
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Paint them off model and use CA glue to secure them
It’s a good question, I’m currently building RFM’s Sturmy with a clear roof (“Sturmy Weather” thread) and had wondered the same thing. In fact mine won’t have a clear roof which is one way of dodging the problem. But I tend to agree with Youngun, paint very carefully the face of the item (including the locating pins) that’s to be against the clear part (steel presumably) and then use the faintest trace of CA to secure it. I can’t think of an alternative (?)
Instead of CA I would use acrylic glue (Gator Grip, Ultraglue, etc.) that is more controllable, does not fog transparent parts and can be cleaned with water before it dries.
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CA is going to fog the clear part. I would use Ultra Glue as Carlos recommends.