Later when in the hobby room I will snap a few pictures of the Chesapeake Model Designs - June/July 45 paper panzer turret for the King Tiger. Bill Miley, the owner was fantastic at getting these sorts of details correct on his aftermarket resin parts.
As for adding weld seams there are any excellent techniques.
1) Scribing with .1mm or .2mm or .3mm scribe as needed and filling the seam with epoxy putty works can work very well. Weld seam can be textured as desired. This is probably the best result method but it is also very unforgiving if you layout the weld seam wrong etc.
Night Shift - Epoxy Weld Seams
Here are a few welds in white I did back in 1994 on a Panzer IV J using the epoxy method.
2) Probably the best bang for the effort is flat styrene rod attached with Liquid Cement and after dried for 24 hours, textured with a #11 blade. Sprue also works but harder to keep consistent for a lot of welds. Best of all one can lay out the strip and make sure it is,correctly aligned before gluing in place. If it’s off a little one can bump the rod over slightly with extreme care to get alignment correct.
I used .010 square Plastistruct rod for the white welds on this old Italeri Pz IV G and textured with #11 blade.
3) Archer makes a resin printed Weld seam set can can be applied like decals or dry transfer as needed. They look OK when painted etc.
Archer - Welds
4) Small Weld can be made with a trace of thinned putty (Tamiya Basic or Molak Stucco Putty). After dry the putty can be dampened slightly with LC and textured with a #11 blade.
The grey weld on the rear of that old 1994 Pz IV J was done with Molak Stucco Putty, Testor’s Liquid Cement & 11# blade.
There are other techniques etc and I’m sure they work well too.
My favorite is flat styrene rod & Molak Stucco Putty. For big welds, I will scribe and Milliput epoxy putty or rare occasions.