Here is my current build. After one year continuous process it´s almost finish for interior painting. Just only few details need to be added. My idea is vehicle deployed in France (Normandy) 1944. I´ve found some camouflage scheme for this version (Pz.Gren.Div. Lehr., decal.set STAR DECALS/35-C 1130). What was the biggest issue it´s fitting top and bottom part of body. That´s why I decided to cut out front and rear top of body. I also have some troubles with soldring 0.3mm copper wire. Well have a look on the pictures. Any of comments will be appriciated.
15 Likes
Dan,
Very nice detail work! Look forward to progress photos.
2 Likes
What were/are the aftermarket sets that you are using?
2 Likes
Here´s the list of aftermarket sets what I´ve already used or planned to be used:
Fire extinguisher 3D print by Eduard / 635034
Towing pintles 3D print /S.B.S. model SBS3DO17
Telermine 42, 3D print / Firma49 49A013
Old desingned triangel jerry cans 3D print/ Panzer_art RE35-439
Ger.jerry cans EHG 1943 3d print / Elefant model E35212 (this I can´t recomended, parts got to demage itself due to wrong desing of 3D print, residual resin remained in hollow of 3D parts.)
Ger.jerry cans 20l 3D print / Firma_49 A019
Panzerfaust 30/60 / Miniart 35253
Antislipery sheetmetal profile for ger.ww2 vehicles by Heuler
Fruilmodel tracks ATL-07
Now I´m thinking where to place loudspeaker L.S.Fu.a
1 Like
WOW! Did the folding handles for the anti-slip flooring come with the etch or was that something you added to it? I was particularly amazed by the etch for the armored window covers which I did not think came with the kit nor the handle and locking mechanism for the rear doors. Where did they come from?
1 Like
Folding handles for the anti slip flooring were made from the scratch. Handle and locking mechanism were made from the scratch. Armored win.covers is particulary by Eduard photo etched set and particulary made form the scratch.
1 Like
Messy cutting mat: sign of a first-rate modeler, and your work so far bears this out!
1 Like
I am absolutely blown away by your creativity, customization and unbridled skill in going after the AFV Club 251 Ausf C,
This is seriously, amazing work, my friend.
I’ve seen this method/application around the site onn builds and always have wondered; The grey material you apply to gain different texture on the hull body, what is that and how do you apply it?
I have recently bought Mr. Surfacer 5000 putty and love it for some things, but I’ve never been able to apply it as cleanly as seen here.
What surface product, and what do you use to apply it?
1 Like
Hi Nate_W. Thank you for your post since it motivates me much. Yes AFV Club requires more effort then I expected but stil feasible.
Well grey material represents Rolled homogeneous armor. I use tamiya grey putty, diluted in aceton to obtain a dilute solution. Than I apply it by the old brush direct on the surface of a model. After drying up I send it by “water” sandpaper 1000.
I would say You thought Mr.Surf.500 this is not bad as well but may be more suitable for creating surface of casting parts.
1 Like
Thank you very much for your reply.
Yes, my mistake, I have Mr. Surfacer 500. I had seen it used to modify textures.
Although I want to try the Mr. Surfacer 1000/1500, I am definitely going to try what you outlined,
Taking Tamiya putty and diluting in acetone and applying with an old brush.
Thank you very much for the helpful photo.
One last question: What did you mean by “After drying up I send it by “water” sandpaper 1000”?
I understand you let it dry and then sand with 1000 grit but what about the water? Just curious what you meant by that water bit.
Thanks again!.
2 Likes
Hi Nate, sure thing, anytime 
I thought like this, that 1000grit sandpaper normaly works together with the water. Sometimes it,s called like water sandpaper and its tipical thing for higher level of grit.
Better now?
2 Likes
beautiful detailed work on the interior.
1 Like
I see! Very good.
One last thing.
I have both a WinWing URSA Minor joystick to repair (USB-C port broke off) and a bunch of Legend and Lion Roar PE sets I need to build.
I want to get into Micro Soldering but am really intimidated by it.
Your PE soldered parts look phenomenal
What soldering tool do you have, and do you recommend it for someone starting out?
Any micro soldering advice you wish you would have known starting out?
1 Like
