I’ve neglected both my own build and the campaign for a little bit too long.
Had a tinker today with some the engineering hull and some scrap strip. I think I’ve solved the gap in the pylon joints. I’ll trim and sand them back, hopefully it’ll have solved it but I expect to need a little filling.
The strip work to close up the gap.
Still a slight gap, but it’s not the massive canyon that it was! Bit of acrylic putty should fix that.
And after that get the hull glued.
I’ve been so busy but I finally managed to make some progress…painted with AK Interactive Magic Markers. I puttied the gaps in the hair and I need to do more paint Marker touch ups.
I don’t think that I can paint it so fast and easy without the AK Markers which made it so easy.
I used black pinstripe tape for the phaser belt. I found a 3D seller who sold me a 3D-printed 1/12 Star Trek phaser that I have to prime, paint, and attach.
Once the figure is finished, I’ll mount it on a plinth. I still have some time left… 
Looking pretty cool. Keep it going.
I finally managed to sort out the pylon gaps. Needed a couple of coats of thick Mr Surfacer and a rub down to blend it all in. One more round and it should fix it.
And got some clear blue on the impulse crystal and deflector dish. Rather than using my usual Tamiya clear, I used Vallejo’s as I figured it would be easier to wash off it didn’t turn out well. Tamiya’s clear sticks and is harder to remove. Good job as well as the deflector didn’t quite turn out the way I wanted. I might try painting the front rather than the back. The paint pooled in the moulded in ring on the reverse side and was far too visible.
Use an airbrush if you have one. Several light coats prevent runs and pooling and allows you to go from lighter to darker “tinting” until you have the shade you want. (An airbrush and Tamiya Smoke do a great job of window tint)
Mike
Not a bad suggestion. Thanks.
How do the Tamiya clears spray as I find they have a ‘sticky’ consistency compared with their other paints? The Vallejo has come up really nice but has a matt finish, so would need glossing after.
I’m going to have a look through my spray can box first as I have a suspicion I might have a can of Tamiya clear blue.
I don’t find them to be sticky after airbrushing. May have to do with the alcohol I thin with.
It’s the consistency while they’re wet. Sticky is the only way I can describe it, almost like painting honey. I’ve got a jar each of them and they’re all the same. Not like the consistency of usual XF’s. I don’t know if it’s because they’re a couple of years old, I don’t know? They’re great for painting nav lights but anything larger does fill me with a little anxiety!
Assuming I have a can, I might give the spraycan a test as I’ve had a lot of success with their clear orange over woodgrain painted parts. Nice and smooth. Also did bussard collector domes on the Romulan Bird-of-Prey years ago.
Oh yeah; in the jar they definitely are sticky.
Ah, that’s good I wondered if they’d gone that way after sitting for a couple of years! Thanks.
They tend to be colours I only use a drop of at a time, usually just to do lights, instrument etc. Love the nice glossy finish they have.
The Tamiya Clears are kind of thick, so I thin it first. I’ve had really good luck going that route.
Mike
Thanks @TacFireGuru. I picked up a bottle of Gunzes last weekend. Seems a lot thinner and not as viscous as Tamiya’s. I’ll try airbrushing it onto the deflector next week. This weekend has just been too busy to get out the airbrush.
However, I have been working on the engineering hull this week and I’m now happy with it. The fit of the shuttle bay at the rear was pretty awful and needed a of filling. I used some Vallejo acrylic putty to fill it in, followed by a bit of Mr Surfacer and a rub down to smooth it over.
I also did a little preparation work on the Whale Probe today. Sanding off the print support stubs and a little bit of a light sand to remove some more prominent print lines. Bit of Mr Surfacer needed on a couple of spots.
