Most tedious and time consuming part of the build is complete. A bit more work than usual with kits Indy workable tracks. As usual, most of the effort goes into clean up, which in this case involved 7 sprue attachment points, 2 each on the pads and 3 in each guide horn. The rods on the pads are mushroomed so the end connectors snap in. Not all are real tight but I’ve had them on and off for test fitting and none have come apart. Overall a nice kit that can be built with several options.
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Looking good DV but something about the last bogie by the idler in the last photo looks off.
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Too much clean up for me-thats why I went the 3D route.
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Might just be the shadow. No worries though it’s just a test fit but I’ll doubly check once everything is painted and the lower hull gets finished up. Thanks for the heads up though.
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Yeah, lots of clean up, but I am patient and I don’t try to get them done in one or two sessions. I spread them out over four days, doing sub assemblies and some recreational reading in between. Makes the experience last longer.
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Ok, back to the build. Lower hull and running gear painted and weathered. Finally got a friends PE bender to clear a stumbling block. The first section of the strip that the sand shields get bolted to required more than my usual rudimentary tools. The long run is in two pieces. Not much gluing surface on the strips so I backed them with Evergreen strip and glued the strip to the underside of the hull. Hopefully a more robust joint and will not break off as easily when handled.
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The strip is supposed to go against the side of the hull 
On the real tanks, its upper half overlaps the hull, the lower half extends below the sponson bottom. The narrower strip on the mudguard goes against the side edge of that, so that its underside is at the same level as the strip that’s welded to the hull.
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Thanks. The instructions aren’t too clear on the placement. I’ve since removed them and am in the process of remounting them.
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Corrected the installation of the strips that hold the sand shields. Took some doing to remove them without bending them too much. Not great but not going to let perfect be the enemy of good. Also added most of the upper hull bits and pieces.
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Much better
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Yeah. Really appreciated your call on that. It’s a real bugger to get lined up. I got it pretty close, honestly I don’t think the average Mk1 eyeball will notice. Such a small space for attachment. I ended up backing it with .025 Evergreen rod. Small enough that the rod doesn’t block the holes but large enough to provide more surface area for hopefully a more secure bond.
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As I have this kit in my stash too, it’s good to read these things before I start on it I think it may be a good idea to pencil a line onto the hull side first where the top of the strip is to go, that will probably make it easier to fit properly.
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Impeccable work. My eye is drawn to the painting and shading work on the bogies etc (I don’t know tank terminology) every time.
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I think you’re using the right word. In tank terms, a bogie is an assembly that holds multiple wheels with their suspension arms, springs, etc. — derived from the railway term for something that serves a similar purpose. Shermans have three bogies on each side of the hull, each bogie holding two roadwheels and a return roller (plus two springs inside, and assorted other bits to make it all work).
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Appreciate the explanation.
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Upper hull and turret completed and painted. Most of the details added and painted as well. Gloss coated and decals applied. Painted out the stars on the turret and hull sides. Gloss coated to seal everything up and applied a dark oil wash. Still way to go. Thanks for looking.
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Finished. Still debating stowage but I kind of like the look without the clutter.
Another trouble free Takom build. Thanks for looking in.
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Nice job! Takom has the A Team on this kit. 
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That is super nice
Jeff
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