Tamiya acrylics

It’s because with it’s combination of glycol alcohol, ammonia, and detergent, Windex just destroys Tamiya paint on contact. If you have a model that you need to strip that’s painted with Tamiya, just immerse it in Windex and watch the paint disappear!
And yes, @Mead93 is correct, lacquer thinner is at the top of the food chain for airbrush cleaners. No matter what you’ve shot through your airbrush, you can clean it out with lacquer thinner.

Even hardware store stuff ? In my little mine , Lacquer is lacquer , Isn’t it ?

For cleaning, yes, hardware store stuff. For painting I recommend Mr. Color Levelling Thinner.

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It certainly is inexpensive & I will try it .Is the " Levelling " moniker in it’s name describing it’s slower drying ? { that’s sound like a good thing good thing .}. Since I hope to go back to M/C & auto , I prefer a silky finish. k.

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Yes, as far as I know the levelling thinner is lacquer thinner with a touch of retarder that helps the paint get a smooth finish. I use Tamiya yellow cap, but when I run out I’ll switch to the mr levelling thinner. Other people swear by it

That’s what I needed to know. Thank You Mead.

The Mr. Color Leveling Thinner is lacquer and is, as it’s name implies, self-levelling, meaning that when airbrushed with Tamiya or AK Real Color it leaves a super smooth, hard, perfect paint surface. It also gives you a perfect, trouble free, flawless airbrushing experience. No clogging or tip dry, just airbrushing bliss.

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Yeah, the levelling thinner is like a magic potion. I’ve used it for a while now and love it. I’ve even sprayed it neat when I’ve had a slightly grainy finish from post highlighting, which if done carefully smooths out the finish. I also tend to add a little clear gloss to Tamiya matt paints to make them more satin for later weathering, etc.

Oh and if you are wondering about the 110, 250 and 400 alternatives, that’s just the amount in the bottle, exactly the same stuff.

And if you like to use primer the Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 is the best I have used, thin it 50:50 with levelling thinner and spray away!

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Mix Windex and water together 50/50 and scub it on a Tamiya painted surface that has dried for several hours and you can achieve a very good chipping effect. I use an under coat of varying shades of Testors Rust {little square bottles} enamel that I premix. When the windex starts to eat away the Tamiya topcoat you get a very realistic weathered paint surface since the Tesors enamel doesn’t react to the Windex scrub.

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I spray Tamiya Acrylics with Tamiya lacquer or Mr Color Levelling thinner.
They are not as ‘hot’ as store-bought lacquer.
For the amount I spray, the relatively higher cost of using the Tamiya & Mr Color lacquers is offset by the ease of use and lack of drama.

Lays down beautifully, no issues, (except those self inflicted)
I have also managed to get hold of Tamiya Paint Retarder, though I haven’t used it yet.

I have used W&N Galleria Fluid Retarder & Flow Improver, with X20a (acrylic) thinners with no issues, & they work with VJ, MIG & other acrylic brands.

Good tip Gary, thanks!

I read all the great comments about Mr Color Leveling thinner,like most of our proprietary hobby stuff,it isnt cheap.How much better is it for Tamiya and AK Real then the much cheaper hardware store lacquer thinner that I use,is it worth the extra cash

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Can you speak to how this compares to the hairspray chipping method results wise ? Sounds like a really cool effect, do you have any photos of your technique ?

Speaking 100% from personal experience here, but I tried hardware lacquer thinner and I put it on a tad wet once and it crazed the plastic, had to strip all the paint, sand it down smooth and repaint.

MLT is amazing stuff, similar to Tamiya yellow cap but with some sort of leveling agent/retarder in it. It is nearly fool proof and results in perfect smooth coats. I personally love it and will never use another thinner for tamiya or AK real colors. I’ve even sprayed it a bit dryer than I probably should have by mistake where it looks like I’m gonna get a dusty dry coat and like magic it levels out

I still keep a can of hardware lacquer thinner around for cleaning the AB though!

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Hi Tony,

If you’ve read all my posts then you know that I used to use hardware store lacquer thinner for airbrushing, too. But after trying the Mr. Color Leveling Thinner, I’ll never go back. It just gives a better finish and a better airbrushing experience. You won’t notice the difference until you try it. It’s like thinking your Volkswagen is really sporty, until you drive a Porsche. All I can suggest is that you splurge for a small bottle and try it.

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Maybe,and use the hardware store stuff for cleaning,really only use a few drops for thinning

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I must concur with the two above, Mr C Levelling thinner is worth every penny. Love the vw/Porsche comparison by @SSGToms, very apt!

And I usually thin 50/50 with Tamiya and AK RC.

Just try it, you will not regret it.

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I love the hardware stuff for cleaning. It’s so hot it just melts even the hardest stuck on paint!

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Seanmcandrews
Here is a pic showing the technique I used on a Handy Henry “doodlebug” tractor. The darker rust color is the testors base color beneath the green Tamiya paint. That was achieved using Windex/water scrub. The lighter rust colors were added after using sponge technique. I found this Windex technique for Tamiya paint in a book "SM.02, Stalinetz Tractor by Rinaldi Studio Press. Michael Rinaldi is the author and designer. A final dusting of weathering pastels to give it a dirty, dusty finish.
Gary

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Thank you Gary, that looks quite nice !

Sean