Agreed, Johnny, I’ve got to finish some of them to clear out space on the bench. Another four waiting to get in the tank wash plus three painted that need weathering.
Pz III N - Takom,
Pz III N - Tamiya
Pz III N - Dragon
Pz III J - Academy
Stug III G - RFM,
15cm Howitzer - Dragon
Panther D - Dragon
Weathering
Pz IV H - Tamiya
Pz IV J - Tamiya
T55 - Tamiya
Only two Shelf Queens remaining…celebration 
Pz IV F2 - Gunzy/Imperial/Dragon
Panther G - Tamiya
Making great headway Wade.
Wade! Be so kind as to finish the T-55 first! 
Vlad, hope to get the T55 sorted very soon.
Will paint the others and work on ye ole T55 while the other model’s paint dries and cures.
Great! 
I’ll be happy to watch the process!
I got schooled today so this’ll probably sound pretty negative…but it is what it is…
Did the house keeping in the hobby room to prep for painting, vacuum, dust, clean spray booth, new filters, cycle compressor, dump the water trap etc. Discovered unlike the old hobby room, the dryer duct isn’t long enough to properly vent out the window.
Jessie cat said she’s been practicing riding in “the copula” so hurry back from Lowes with a longer dryer duct and get to painting.
The new duct proved long enough but marginal venting due to the side open window. Previously, set up I could spray for one minute and not smell thinner or paint. Currently, smells after ~10 seconds of spraying Basically, going to have to make some improvements. Yes, it’s back to using a respirator…I got so spoiled with the prior excellent ventilation.
My wife has zero tolerance for fumes and I have to be considerate by only painting when she’s out of the house. Clothes used when airbrushing have to immediately be washed etc as she can detect the fumes etc. In short, only one model received base coat of black today as I ran out of time. It was all just as well as of course, my arthritis decided to act up soon as the air brush was touched.
While this doesn’t look like much, it’s the result of practically a full day in the hobby room… Dragon Pz III N base coated.
Jessie is like hey get back in there and pimp my ride!
Hopefully, tomorrow morning another Pz III gets the Floquil
The fumes are probably blowing back in the window. Use a garbage bag and tape it to the window to seal it up. Your CFM haven’t changed, so it is probably the window.
Good idea.
Definitely agreed, will pick up window 
wrap tomorrow and seal it.
Looks like Jessie believes you are trying to asfixiate asphixiate asficsiate (well anything having to do with fixing is NOT welcome)…
LOL! Indeed, Jessie is one of those kitty 's that would have been way too friendly with all the tomcats given half a chance.
Had to encourage an orange 
tomcat we’ve nicknamed “Casanova Cat” to get out of the yard. He tried to sneak into the garage this evening. Jessie was face booking him thru the screen door…she’s fixed but still a frisky attention…seeker…lol
Just picked up the window wrap, will definitely shadow coat another Pz III tomorrow.
You know Wade…if you got a piece of plexi and cut a hole in the bottom you could have a year round solution…
Matt, that’s an excellent solution!
I will check into that.
Edit - follow up,
Lowe’s didn’t have a single piece in stock that was long enough but they were able to cut a top piece and bottom piece sized to fit the window screen slots. Added a square 4 1/8 inch notch in the lower panel for the duct.
My spray foam to seal tight is Soviet crude but seems effective. In other words, its ugly but all weather painting should be possible.
Plan to test by painting tonight.
Now that’s A+++, and no duct tape involved!
Thank you Matt. Definitely appreciated the suggestion.
I’ll clean up the edges with the razor blade.
Joey cat got very excited sticking his head out the window yesterday. Maybe he believed he was getting a new tomcat door through the window.
Check out his disappointment that 7+ inch diameter tomcats can’t fit through a 4 inch diameter hole!
When sealed, he sulked away depressed for a few hours of blanket time.
This morning he was crying at 7 am wanting in the hobby room pawing the closed door. Must have wanted to check the window expecting a new Joey cat sized automatic door. The other two cats pretty much ignored the whole process…
Last cat story back to modeling.
Touched up base coat on Dragon Pz III N and base coat for Academy Pz III J North Africa.
Loving the Floquil Luftwaffe RML 66 interior black airplane color as a shadowy base coat for tank exteriors. Not loving the idea of using RAL 7027 & RAL 8020.
The two colors together remind me of when a childhood friend ate too much Pink Panther cereal and country sausage before school.
How do I know he ate too much?
He tossed his cookies on the big group table for the whole class to see.
In any case, going to let this cure for several days before the RAL 7027 & RAL 8020 color coats since lacquer based over enamel can sometimes go sour if the enamels aren’t completely cured.
This was painful today, had to use a new (to me) paint brand. This was necessary since I don’t have DAK RAL colors in Floquil. I have a fair visualization of what RAL 7027 should probably look like but will pass of trying to mix my own version. Mr Paint aka MRP really killed it with a basically perfect RAL Panzer Grey match, plus MRP offers a full selection of RAL DAK colors. So Mr Paint to rescue.
First time spraying Mr. Paint, and immediately realized that narrow base bottle will prove disastrous given how clumsy I’ve proved to be over the years.
Simple fix, the Mr Paint bottle fit in a spare Paasche bottle 
. With potential disaster addressed, noted that MRP is pre-thinned for airbrushing. That’s nice as whatever is left over in the color cup can be siphoned by pipette and returned to the bottle for later use without worrying about causing issues.
The RAL 7027 Sand Grey, sprayed perfectly in very thin coats, allowing excellent control for shadow painting aka preshading. Two to four coats were applied with the intention of allowing some black base coat to show through.
Another Quick Wheels mask was used for a Pz III. The label said Dragon Pz III ausf E but it worked perfectly well for this Dragon Pz III ausf N. I was much happier with this template and it definitely saved time applying multiple coats. The template cleaned easily with a paper towel dampened with Goof Off paint remover. Mineral spirits had no effect on the acrylic lacquer MRP.
Full safety gear used as MRP is fume intensive. Full as in glasses, gloves, respirator, vented paint booth w/fan.
Initial impressions MRP is a very high quality and I’ll use it again
Final impressions concerning the window fume fix and air quality?
It’s better but not as good as prior set up.
I can paint year round. It was 31 this morning etc. Tactical Victory overall. I can spray for ~20 to 25 seconds continuously before detecting fumes. I am very fussy about fumes compared to the typical modeler.
The additional length, bends and curves required (180 degrees + 90 degrees over 8 ft) in the new hobby room cost some cfm of flow. The old set up was 3ft length with one 90 out the window.
Effectively, means using a respirator for any continuous painting. Brief highlights could be done without a respirator since there is a lot pauses to reposition etc.
I could fully sort the mess and get a 3ft and 90 again but a total rearrange the room ordeal and reposition etc. Rather wear the respirator again and keep working than tear the room apart.
May redo this winter etc.
May be as simple as changing duct sizes.
Static Dissipative Urethane Hoses | Anti Static Hose (ductingsystems.com)
Except sadly, it’s not that simple.
Requires new hole in pelxiglass, have to remove plexiglass to cut it, have to get an adapter for the booth to go from 4 inch to whatever.
Appreciate the suggestion, thank you.
