Wishy Washy

@ Matthew. You need to visit “this” particular Walmart in order to believe it. … As I was self-checking my items (no more checkers), a giant girl rushed over to interrupt… “I need to scan you through for inhalants.” Evidently, kids are inhaling ‘Dust Off’ now. It’s okay for old geezers to huff inhalants though! :dash::laughing:



Bought the biggest bottle of “old” Future I could find when I heard they were discontinuing it. Have not yet tried the “new” Future.

One bit of advice (worth every penny you paid for it!) Don’t use those big “Home Depot” spray cans of matte clear. They go on too heavy and the nozzles produce a heavier droplet size guaranteed to lay down too much paint, too quickly. (I don’t care how much success you think you have had with them in the past.) The best model matte (IMHO) is Tamiya’s TS-80 Matte Clear. You get a much finer spray and a lighter coat that you can build on instead of hosing down the model with too much paint.

p.s. Any matte clear will become semi-gloss if you lay it on too thickly so it flows out to form a smooth surface. (Any smooth surface will be reflective to some degree regardless of color.) With matte clears you want to keep the can above and away from the work piece so the paint falls almost dry onto the model surface creating a microscopically rough surface “tooth” that will then scatter any reflected light.

Shown here above is a base coat of matte OD then Future under the decal. (brushed on, right out of the bottle) Then Future over the decals and over the entire hood. (liberally brushed on right out of the bottle) This top coat of Future entombs the decal and generally serves to hide the edge of the decal film entirely. Then a final overspray of Tamiya TS-80 matte clear sprayed over the model so the clear coat falls as a dry mist onto the model surface.

Again ANY matte paint sprayed on heavily will form a smooth surface that will be reflective (to some degree) regardless of color. However spraying on as a dry mist will create a broken, rough paint surface that is far less reflective. This technique will produce the flatest matte clear coat you have ever seen.

This info has been gleaned from 20 years of doing very redundant studio product photography of shinny little boxes where the matte clear was my go-to solution for almost every overly reflective part and from growing up with my Father who painted cars

An Extreme Case Example:

Repainted and relettered On30 Boxcars

First a base coat of Tamiya’s new “Red Oxide Primer.”

Then flood the entire car side with brushed on Future right out of the bottle and apply Decals. Once the decals start to set, generously apply more Future to entomb the decals. The Future is extremely self-leveling and will draw down the decals into the nooks and crannies of the surface as it dries. (Forget the Solve-Set!)

Then multiple applications of Tamiya TS-80 Matte Clear sprayed on very dry to finally hide all that shine.

Other Examples if Needed:

Apologies for the example over kill here but in the past I have gotten a lot of negative remarks around the internet for my techniques as being “old fashioned” as well as other, more rudely phrased comments.

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Fantastic! Great advice / Ian

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Thank you - just trying to share experiences and results I have had over time.