Legend’s are (slowly) releasing products such as this upgrade for the AFV Club IDM M113 to include Toga armour…
Invest in a hold & fold tool first.
Legend’s are (slowly) releasing products such as this upgrade for the AFV Club IDM M113 to include Toga armour…
Jewelery like a jeweler’s
Think I’ll give that kit a miss then lol
Indeed it looks difficult.
But my photoetch nightmare is the stryker armor.
My nominee for the title is this product which provides
immense joy for BOTH the PE-masochist
AND the Indy-link fetischist
Behold, PE for LVT-tracks, workable if you do it right …
as recommended “tools”, just saying …
Good luck for the built.
Photoetch manufacturers pictures always show perfect builts.
Sometimes I wonder if its are real builts or just 3D drawings with a metal effect !* *
Yeah, when I first saw that when it was announced, I expected it to come with a straight jacket…
Oh they are real builds. They just don’t show you how many people were building the parts, and all the failed bits they replaced before they got a good one.
The fact that they are real is underlined in Robin’s post. They built a whole 7 links for their advert and the LVT 4 still has the AFV Club shoes on…
In the main, I love all things PE.
I’d rather kill myself, than tackle something like that!
Ah, photo etch with a standard kit as an aftermarket addition
Oh, F that! That’s a hard pass for me. As for the Toga armor? I’ll stick with the Toga Armor set on the Academy M113 Zelda. Heck! i took some of the old Tamiya M113s i have and cobbled together my third IDF M113 Nagmash; Now, i have a “Pikud” Command Vehicle, a basic M113A3 “Nagmash” and an M113A1 “Bardehlas” with the Toga Armor.
The m113 looks easy compared to LVT or Dozer set.
That one is the kit for the Meng D9R “Doobi”.
Regarding all the PE stuff shown here…
Legend is still going strong. And that Toga armor is way better than Verlinden’s old offering.
Still trying to get around to tackle that Verlinden PE …
Use a small square jig and invest in a good soldering iron or look into resistive soldering (small scale arc welding)
Use thin “silver” solder and “tack weld” the seams and connections
You could use mini bolts like the auto modelers use, or pieces of brass rod and weld the sheets to the frames.
Also, you will need a magnifier
“Death to super-glue”
Welcome to the forum. I like how you replicated the broken ceramic. A legit addition to our little community.