I didn’t expect that my monster 1/8 Pocher Porsche 917K build would be completely OOB? I think that decision is simply what one chooses at the start? Some braver than me may execute a fully weathered and race worn version (wow)…but considering the excellent pre painted white metal panelwork on offer…. I’m going for what best could be described as a freshly restored race car. (aka Bruce Canepa 917/30, but not for precise reference as it’s 930?) The headers are a prime example of decisions… flat white looks like it appeared on many? Add the fun of heat staining-bluing and it’s tempting? But for now, I’m choosing a finely brushed metal ‘bling’ finish which will appear like a stainless exhaust which I guarantee NO 917 EVER had/has?
I have had my long rewarding run of contest builds but now some of my modeler decisions are to option for how the assembly or part ‘impresses’ the (aka MY) eye more than any prototypic purist? On this build specifically, I will often consider added contrast, bling or uneducated aesthetic attraction? (not on an aircraft, AFV or ship generally) So one assembly may be as accurate as possible…and another reflect a deliberate deviation from ‘rules’ but for a selected ‘reason’ imho. In any case, there is always someone who has a comment either way…and fine, have at it;) I build the ‘Frank Sinatra Way’, if you get my drift:))? What would we do, after all without those who tell us how to better serve our caviar or mow our lawns…?
To finish this little rant…if HOWEVER you want to offer how to improve my chosen results technically: I’m your humble and grateful Padawan Lerner:)
I did strip and prime (Rustoleum Self Etching Primer #248322) etch the engine as the Pocher thick too metallic color was not acceptable to me. I used Tamiya X33 with VMS Ultra flat overcoat to drive down the metallics. Scale effect wise the metallics are still a bit over scale as the original medium flat brown really has a metallic ‘hint’ more than the effect imho? Option may be dark medium brown with the MOST subtle metallic silver dry brush… or just simply wave the bottle at the parts…. I have been using Chat GTP for my model color matching inquiries and I’m blown MAX away @ how specific and deep its answers are! I did/will not, as some have impressively done, replace the cast in fasteners/nuts with actual brass threaded rod and nuts.
There are many fun things to upgrade/improve such as the horrific off scale and feisty plug wires, and adding some beautiful mesh aluminum and woven fiberglass ‘hoses’ from Prime Miniatures UK. (with AN fittings of course) A real goal is to replicate as accurately as possible, the fiberglass engine parts, intake ‘funnels’, fan and shroud, cam end plates and engine ‘cover’. In scale, it’s difficult imho to imply the fibrous semi translucency of these parts? I think some subtle washes over Model Color 79.834 Natural Wood on the very visible engine ‘cover’ is my choice for first tests anyway? But the cover exhibits a hint of darker gel pooling color variance? I chose to (and suggest) tap any orifice requiring the supplied threaded screws. I’m sure that more progress will offer more choice and decisions for ‘upgrading’. Looking ahead, the rather primitive and simplified pedal assembly looks like it begs improvement? The beautifully cast tube frame parts have mould artifacts and I don’t yet see the Nitrogen pressure valve? But I strongly suggest you ask Chat GTP about how to replicate the 917 fiberglass engine parts color? Welcome to your NEW modeling reference assistant!
More as this build moves down the line?
Happy Holidays
