Airbrush problem/question using acrylics

I sprayed an acrylic paint for the first time yesterday with mixed results. So i have a few questions and possibly a problem too.

First i was spraying ak interactive Russian green primer mixed 60/40 paint to thinner with some retarder for good measure. Air pressure was set to 14 psi. I ran into some tip drying and clogging. I had to stop and clean my airbrush several times over the course of a couple hours. Is there anything I could do to fix this problem or is this the nature of acrylics?

Second When i would clean the airbrush i would get bubbles from the seam that the arrow is pointing to. When painting I don’t get bubbles…only when running the thinner through it. Could this be part of my problem with the acrylics?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

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Following…

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I’ve never used AK Interactive, so I can’t comment on that aspect of your problems encountered. But I have airbrushed a LOT with Model Master Acryl and Polly Scale, both of which frequently gave me tip dry with certain paint colors. To counter that I would keep a small amount of proprietary airbrush thinner handy, along with some micro brushes. When I get tip dry build up, I’d dip the micro brush into the thinner and swab away the build up, then resume my airbrushing.
As far as the bubbles on your airbrush goes, is that a Badger 155 Anthem? If so, I have one of those and am familiar with it. When I get bubbles there, it usually means that the seal there is leaking and either not screwed down completely, or that the o-ring seal is bad.

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Yes it is a 155. I must say that I’m not familiar with any orings on this airbrush

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Looking at the instruction manual online, I don’t see any o ring listed. Yet I just looked at my 155 and confirmed that there is one on mine in that area where you indicated the bubbling was occurring. I was gifted my Badger 155 and 105, so I don’t know if the previous owner added the o-ring, or if that is an older discontinued design feature.

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What is being used as thinner to thin the AK Interactive paint?

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I am running AK through an Iwata CS thinned about 50% with 99% isopropyl
(~15psi) and have not had issues with tip drying or clogging.

I’d definitely see about eliminating the bubbling even if that’s not causing the drying. I had bubbling due to not tightening the nozzle far enough and it was affecting spray quality.

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Hi @Darren,

I only spray acrylics through a few different Badger airbrushes and they work just fine. That said, I am familiar with what you described.

Starting with the “air bubbles”, I get them too when cleaning, but have never had any paint leaks/bubbling out, or paint gumming up the threads. The bubbles are something I’ve come to live with. I tired to make it stop with no luck, so concluded it was ok.

I haven’t used AK paints in a while, and instead use Vallejo Model Air. I don’t have a particular reason for Vallejo vs AK, except years ago, I ran into AK leaving unusual finishes, so tried something else. I don’t recall thinning the AK paints. I don’t have to thin with Vallejo and shoot it right out of the bottle, but need to keep an eye on the quality of bottles that have sat unused for a while, as the paint seems to solidify just enough to clog the gun. I can usually tell if this will happen when I’m shaking the bottle - sluggish shake usually equals tired out paint…

Regarding the clogging, I see that from time to time with prolonged use too, as you describe. I don’t usually have to tear the whole gun down to fix this, and instead remove the outer tip, and wipe down the inner tip and shell - (sorry , don’t know the technical name for the parts). This is a somewhat random problem for me - every once an a while the tip will clog quickly, and other times not at all.

This might sound ridiculous, but I use my optivisor when tearing down and cleaning my air brushes, as very thin layers of acrylic can get built up within, and are hard to see otherwise. I’ll use very fine wire and stiff old paint brushes dipped in AB cleaner to probe around to make sure the gunk is found and removed. Small dried paint nuggets can interfere with airflow and cause clogging. While a bit tedious, a few of my airbrushes are pretty old and still do the trick.

You can see my results in my Avatar - the Peterbilt which is painted with Vallejo Model Air paint with several Aqua Gloss II clear coats. I’ve had good results with matte or flat finishes too. For the last few years, I’ve used Tamiya canned primers (various colors for different color tone) which has worked great.

Like most of the skills in this hobby, practice and patience seems to have helped me along the way.

Cheers
Nick

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Ak’s 3rd gen thinner

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Hi Darren,

Your mix ratio, adding retarder, and pressure are perfect. Tip dry is just the nature of acrylics and it happens to everyone, you’re not doing anything wrong. But when it happens, you don’t have to stop shooting and tear down your airbrush. I’ve shot acrylics for 4 hours straight without stopping except to change colors.
Keep a small cup (a medicine cup works great) of AK thinner with a Q-Tip in it (buy real Q-Tips! The store brands skimp on the cotton ends!) and whenever you experience a tip dry clog, grab the Q-Tip, stick it firmly in the needle cap of the airbrush, give it a few twirls, and you’re good to go. Continue airbrushing. Throw out the Q-Tip and get a fresh one for the next occurrence. Real Q-Tips are very well padded on the ends and will not harm your airbrush needle in any way. This has worked for me for 30 years.
Don’t worry about the bubbles coming out of the nozzle cap when cleaning. The nozzle cap and needle cap should never be more than hand tight and from the factory there are no gaskets between these parts. Thinner is just less viscous than paint and it bubbles out sometimes when running it through the airbrush. There’s nothing wrong there. Just wipe them off the airbrush body with a rag.
Hope this gets you back on track!

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Thankyou for your excellent explanation…I will try your suggestions next time…no modeling over the holiday weekend…to much sxs riding to do!

Ps…can i reverse the thinner ratio so its 60/40 thinner to paint?

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Regarding air bubbles etc my Paasche VL is notorious for doing that unless the threads are lightly coated with a little bee’s wax. Not sure if that would help with the Badger 155 but works well on the VL.

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I was thinking about trying that…good suggestion thanks

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I don’t suggest going past 50/50.

I only spray acrylics and one of my airbrushes is a Badger like yours. I keep a slightly damp kitchen sponge handy when I’m spraying, I’ll remove my color cup, blow out the brush then a few dabs in the sponge and a cotton swab does the trick for me.

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first problem , air pressure . Raise it to 15 or 20 psi . the second is you lost the O’ring from the body to the tip. The third is the primer you are using. I use Vallego primer and never use thinner.

The parts diagram doesn’t show one

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@Darren, regarding “o-rings” while the Badger doesn’t have an o-ring, it has 50-055 & 50-046 PTFE bearing which I think more or less do the same thing as an o-ring.

Diagram is for a 150

Sometimes these go bad over time with use etc one of my friends had to replace 50-046. It’s hard to do so I think Badger offers/honors free life time factory replacement.

Just wanted to mention etc.

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replacement-parts-for-badger-anthem-155-series-airbrushes-179526
This is the 155 diagram and yes the PTFE bearing is the same. I was thinking about sending it in but decided not to as it’s only 2 years old. Then i realized it was actually 8 years old…funny how time flies. I’m not sure how long the bearing lasts.

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The life expectancy of that seal depends on how aggresively the airbrush is cleaned

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