Hi all,
Just a question about airbrushes.
I have 3 airbrushes that work great for a while, then I have issues with the air valve sticking. Also orings dont seem to last long.
I use Tamiya airbrush cleaner as I find this is the most effective.
My airbrushes are -
Paasche Talon, Mig Aircobra and Iwata Ecliose.
Anyone have any tips on how to keep the airvalve from sticking?
Cheers
Rick
Did none of them come with lubricant? My Iwata came with a small tube of it; I would think the others would as well.
Yes it did which I use but it seems to be the air stem valve that gets sticky.
Do you lube inside the air line? Wouldnt the lube get blown through?
Cheers
Rick
O-rings can be sensitive to stronger solvents/thinners.
I have no idea about the chemical composition of Tamiya Airbrush cleaner …
How do you clean your airbrushes?
One of mine developed a sticky valve and it was caused by small amounts of paint leaking backwards through the airbrush body and into the air valve. It took quite some time before it became a problem and a good cleaning of the valve solved it.
Paasche Talon: There should be an air channel in the lower part of the airbrush body. Presumably in the 6 o’clock position if you look at the front of the body from the “business end”.
Mig Aircobra: Similar design to the Talon
Iwata Eclipse: Similar design to the Talon
Paint getting into this air channel could end up in the air valve.
Paint getting back into the “tube” that the needle moves in could reach the trigger area and then down into the top of the air valve.
Always pull the needle out forwards when cleaning.
Insert the needle from the rear after cleaning.
If you use solvents (liquids) to clean the body make sure that the liquid flows forward from the trigger area to the front of the body.
It is well known that Tamiya airbrush cleaner can be used instead of their extra thin glue and works the same, so I guess it’s pretty strong stuff… If it happens with all your airbrushes, I understand this may be the reason. Clean thoroughly with water right after Tamiya cleaner may solve the problem. Or use another cleaner.
THANKS for reminding me.
Totally forgot.
Yep, that cleaner is definitely way too hot for O-rings.
Seals need to be of teflon to handle that stuff.
@RB101 You need to stop using that stuff.
What type of paints are you using?
Turpentine will handle enamels.
Alcohol (booze) will handle acrylics.
Damn, that could be the issue, im using the Tamiya airbrush cleaner on all the parts.
I generally use Tamiya acrylic or Mr Hobby Aqueous. I do thin them for airbrushing with Mr color leveling thinner 400.
Rick
Save the cleaner and use it instead of Tamiya Ultra Thin, as @varanusk so kindly reminded us all, (larger bottle → lower price per ounce)
I use Tamiya and MLT and clean my airbrush out with ammonia window cleaner followed by IPA or Mead cleaner to prevent any pitting from the ammonia on the chrome.
I do use Tamiya airbrush cleaner to glue parts, the formula is about 1% different then Tamiya extra thin. Depending on the o ring properties it may or may not impact those.
I do have some sticking on my Iwata but their lube helps to sort that out.
HTH
I would recommend NOT using ammonia, even if you then flush the airbrush with isopropyl alcohol or anything else. (Though if you do use it, flushing with any aqueous solvent (water) will help.) Ammonia is an extremely aggressive chemical, very bad for everything in the airbrush with the possible exception of Teflon™ seals. This is the reason it’s such an effective cleaner. Flushing with water is better than flushing with alcohol, because water and ammonia have a molecular affinity, both being polar molecules. Alcohols are generally non-polar, and not as effective.
Use 90% isopropyl alcohol to clean alcohol solvent paints like Tamiya. I’m not familiar with Mr. Hobby Aqueous, so I don’t know if alcohol is an appropriate cleaner for it.
For cleaning my airbrushes (2 Iwata’s, and 1 Chinese brand) I use Tamiya cleaner because I only airbrush with Tamiya paints - works great! Lubrication is a different story. I starting using the lubricant that came with the Iwata’s, but after a period the lubricant thickened up and gummed up the needle and trigger necessitating stripping down and flushing with cleaner when I wanted to use it. I have since started to use Badger “Needlejuice”. It’s working great now every time.
