Impressive ~ such a long, tall, flat, unreinforced single course brick wall.
(I would certainly hope for a heavier stone foundation base to that wall, built up to perhaps the 4 or 5 foot level to protect against a tractor accidentally backing into it or a big warm blood plow horse doing a hind kick.)
Hey Dave ~ You might want to check out an article I posted a week ago showing a Kalmbach “Kit-Bash” Book that talked of knitting two bakery kits together to form one big industry building.
Between your work here and this article it really has me Jones’n to find a couple of old Bakery kits and grab my model saw and hobby glue!
Link below:
This is lifted from a post I did just yesterday extolling the visual benefits of painting you track rail in order to make the rails look smaller. (All Gauges/Scales/Codes)
But it works here as well to illustrate my chosen degree of ballast color and darkened weathering.
A small section of Code 100 painted brass HO display track I did maybe 30-40 years ago:
And another short display section of painted HO Code 83 Nickel-Silver track:
Some Dragon Military Scale (1/35th) diorama trackage done just a few years ago.
(Plastic rail head painted silver.)
Close up:
Trumpeter Military Scale plastic painted trackage used as bridge track, done just recently:
(Again the rail head has been painted silver.)
Some freshly done HO trackage:
I do know that Creosote RR ties are almost jet black and not red/brown but I really like the slight added color accent. (Modeler’s artistic license I suppose!)
Painted rail, ties and tie plates do look way better than bare plastic and nickel…
Yes, it does!
Now a days before laying the track I just spray it all with Tamiya Red Oxide Primer (spray can) and then apply a blotchy, brushed on Black wash to everything and then finally hit it with some Matte Clear from a spray can, sprayed on very “dry” to create a microscopically rough surface that scatters the light and makes everything even less reflective.
This is done all quick and dirty ~ emphasis on the dirty.
Finally burnishing the tops of the rails with my abrasive track cleaning pad.
I started cleaning the paint off the rail tops in the yard with some 90% isopropyl alcohol on an old T-shirt stretched over a wood block…weeks after I painted them…
Came off no probs…tho I have not finished this job yet…still have 3 tracks left to do…
The main lines I did right away…
The bakery is a great model. I need to go find one. I remember I had a lot of fun with it.
Your technique for replicating concrete is very effective. I’m going to try it.
Elmer’s White Glue thinned with water and just a little dish washing liquid has definitely become my friend when it comes to ballasting.
The dish soap liquid breaks up the surface tension of the glue and water mix so it really hunkers down into the individual ballast stones.
Great for afixing ballast, grass or earth ground covers!
Yes, how did you do your concrete?
Sponge painting over a base coat???
Sort of…
Craft paint base with overcoat of blobs of 3 colours of craft paint stippled and blended with a 1 inch paintbrush…grey, white and black…
(A little black goes a long way)
Overspray of Tamiya White and Deck Tan mix
Heavy coats of FUTURE flooded over the concrete…
I have some AMMO concrete pigment I may try dry brushing over this…at any rate it needs some weathering…and a flat clear coat…
I have Mid East Dust pigment and a bunch of others that may work…
