Bismarck 1/350 By Tamiya Basic Build

Hi Folks,

With the positive response from the inquiry about a build review, I’m going to post the progress.

I’ll begin with a basic “in-box” review. Many of you already know this kit, but there are many whom don’t. I sure hope this gives you a decent insight into the kit, so here we go!

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Due to the age of this 1978 kit there are plenty of aftermarket goodies. Gold Metal Models have sold their ship line (and others) PE to Squadron, if you’re interested. For the full written article please go to Tamiya Bismarck Battleship Build Part 1 • Canada's largest selection of model paints, kits, hobby tools, airbrushing, and crafts with online shipping and up to date inventory. or Tamiya Bismarck Battleship Build Part 1 - YouTube for the computer voiced review.

HUGE thanks to Jim Starkweather for providing this amazing platform for us to post our work. Consider becoming a Patreon to keep KitMaker Network alive and thieving. More soon. God Bless.

11 Likes

Greetings fellow Modelers,

I sure hope you don’t mind this long update, but tackling as much as possible on page 5 just made sense to post so you weren’t left hanging.

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As mentioned the sprue trees are labeled for ease of access.

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The stand is needed to protect the propulsion parts.

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The ejector pin marks should be removed.

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I went with copper because of the matt finish.

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Semi gloss will not reflect light as much as gloss, so more attention goes to the replica. Yes, the seem line remains for a bit more interest.

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To hand paint the letters I reduce the black.

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Any mishaps can be gently removed with a tooth/cocktail stick because the base color is enamel.

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Next, remove mold lines.

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The line runs the entire length of the hull.

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Time to prime.

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Good thing there’s plenty in the jar. I cut my primer 50/50 with lacquer thinner.

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This is a big model and well worth the price.

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There’s a goodly amount of flash to remove.

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The shaft extensions need some help to fit.

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The rudder posts have to be drilled out.

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I polished the shafts and prop parts prior to spraying the black base.

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You’ll need to hog away plastic to make these parts look right.

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A slight gap at the ends needs to be filled.

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Sponge sanders of different grits will give a smooth finish.

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using a circle cutter to make the white roundel.

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This gets clear coated to avoid lifting.

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Now for the deck color.

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This, as well, gets a protective clear coat.

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I over mask the area because red shows up like a flood light on lighter colors.

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Still some overspray, but easily fixed up.

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Clean your airbrush right away with enamel cleaner. If it fully hardens it’s a nightmare to remove later. Also, I let the black base harden for 24 hours.

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Use a circle cutter to make the masking curves.

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At complex points, simply slice a cross then force the tape over.

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All masked and ready for a spray.

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Lots of hours of fun equal a decent looking result.

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You’ll still have to do some fine hand painting… par for the course.

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Propulsion parts are ready to be installed on the painted hull.

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I’m not attaching the forward deck until the other two sections are complete. For a full written explanation of these pictures you can read it at the Sunward Hobbies blog Tamiya Bismarck Battleship Build Part 2 • Canada's largest selection of model paints, kits, hobby tools, airbrushing, and crafts with online shipping and up to date inventory.

God Bless.

8 Likes

Hey, that’s anything but an basic build! - very nice and crisp work, just you’re omitting all the aftermarket one has gotten so used to.
In fact I, it is really refreshing to watch your work!

One question, did you dry fit the other deck sections? Good decision not to glue the front part in yet! I did not build the Tamiya Bismarck or Tirpitz, but Tamiya kits in general. Like all other brands I’ve come across there usually is a more or less slight missfit with the upper decks…

Count me in for the ride,
Cheers
Jan

3 Likes

Hi Jim,

I did a huge Titanic and a massive Wisconsin model for a dismember guy and his wife years ago. They, like the Bismarck, had the same middle section resting on top of the back and aft deck secessions. My suggestion, because you already know it, is to wait until all is ready to go into place. Same thing applies to adding PE. Thanks for the reply and feel free to calling me should you need more help.

2 Likes

Hi Folks,

Quick update on the boat.

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Label your paint page so you don’t have to constantly fumble through the book.

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I wipe down my sanded parts.

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Lots of handling means prime your parts.

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Deck tan color added to the mid ship.

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Clear coat parts to protect the paint.

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The aft roundel being done.

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A common circle cutter will help with masking curves. Clear coat the deck tan color.

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Use a broader width of tape whenever you can to save time.

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1mm slivers will fill small points.

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Plenty of tools used.

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Dark sea grey added.

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Time to unmask.

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I feel it looks neat for a basic build.

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The contrast of the semi-gloss barrels and flat turret looks cool.

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Even on the smaller guns.

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The plugs want to fall out. Teach them a lesson :slight_smile:

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Same with smaller turrets.

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Test fitting the three deck components.

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Hull work gets underway.

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Resupply time. Thanks Sunward Hobbies! Money well spent.

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Upper deck parts primed, painted and ready to go on.

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10.5mm twin turrets cleaned, primed, painted and set for test fitting.

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Varnished parts to seal in the dark grey.

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Some flash has to be addressed for the parts to fit snuggly.

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Here’s the result.

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Micro sanders help out in those hard to reach places. For the full written blog please go to https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/ Thanks Everyone and God bless.

5 Likes

So much for the basic build lol … I knew you were teasing us HG … this far along and she is looking splendid … Lovely work as always … :+1:

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Man, you are a mojo booster!!! Thanks Brother. You gotta’ hand it to Tamiya, for a hundred bucks (CDN) there’s so much fun.

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Just what Johnny said - and clean and crisp, she’s looking really great and not at all ‘basic’!

Cheers
Jan

2 Likes

Thanks @JJ1973 Jan for the very kind words.

1 Like