A kit that’s been sitting in the stash for quite some time.
Will be following this, as I have the early one to do as a Vietnam War PAVN version. Wayne
I put on two roadwheels last night and they were crooked. Typical Bronco.
You should really say “Typical plastic model kit” because EVERY company has this problem to some extent. If you think kit X or Brand Z always lines up perfectly out of the box, you just haven’t looked very closely.
It is impossible for a joint made with clearance to assemble to always align perfectly because that clearance allows wobble and not every piece in the assembly is perfectly round or straight or flat or square. One must ALWAYS go through the process of test-fitting, adjusting, assembling, and aligning if you want things to fit like a real machine assembled with machined parts does.
Some brands and kits are better than others, obviously, but if there’s surprise about how things look after the glue is applied, that’s the modeler’s fault, not the model’s.
KL
I have found this to be very true with many models I have built. I now always use a metal straight edge to ensure the road wheels line up after I’ve glued them and then make any necessary adjustments.
I have built one. You can read my article at my site.
The worst thing is gluing the micro PE hooks around the engine grille.
Take note that the tracks are supposedly workable. In fact it’s better to glue them. Olivier
Thanks, I’ll check out your site.
I’ve been using Acemodel metal tracks on my YW-750, which are so much better.
This kit had a slight accident due to the tracks…



