Bullet dents/chips

Armor/AFV
1

I am about to paint my Flakpanzer I build. I am modeling it with a dead German soldiers and two Russian soldiers inspecting his body. I want the flak 38 to look like it has been in a fight, with shell casings on the ground, and I was thinking of adding some light damage as well. I want it to look as though it’s been ambushed/attacked by an infantry unit and then overrun. Nothing heavy caliber, I’m thinking it would have been assaulted with mosins and PPsH. I have a couple questions on this.

  1. how thick was the armor on the flak 38 gun shield? I can measure but also want to know how thick it “should” be.

  2. I am guessing it was robust enough to stop small arms fire, but was unsure if the steel cored mosin ammo would do it any harm? I am wondering would small arms go through? dent it? Just remove a bit a bit of paint? Leave it mostly unscathed?

  3. Based on the answer to 2 what’s a good way to show this? I’m fairly new to adding battle damage to Vehicles so any help is appreciated.

I have seen some videos on this topic, but until I have an answer to 2), it’s hard to know the look I am going for.

Thanks I’m advance

2

For small arms fire on splinter-proof armor I would just use chipping…random irregular-shaped spots lighter than the camo color with a smaller dark gray spot in the center. If the damage is on a Zimmerited surface I would physically chip the Zimmerit, too. If you put bullet holes in thin sheet metal drill a tiny hole and push in the plastic around it (to make a funnel shape) and do the same with the paint chipping.
:smiley:

1 Like
3

Thanks. It will be on panzer gray. So a lighter irregular panzer grey around the bullet impact and a dark ring near the Center of the impact?

4

Yeah…the lighter gray would represent the sub-surface layer of paint which is not dirty, etc., and the really dark gray/black is the exposed metal surface. If the action has taken place days earlier, the exposed metal surface would already be rusting, and rust streaks starting. At least, that’s how I do it. Looks more dramatic on a Dunkelgelb background!
:smiley:

1 Like
5

I am inclined to agree with Biggles.

1 Like
6

Have any of you used a heated needle to punch a hole thru or used one to craze the shield or armor as in a deflected projectile?
DAKjunkie

7

I have, it works for small arms but not big shells, but you have to remember to cut off the melted stuff around the hole.
Ken

8

Practice first on something scrap because too much heat will just melt the plastic, and it will just end up looking like a hole melted through plastic. A better way, if you have a Dremel, is to thin out the plastic from the inside (obviously best to do this before any construction!) until the part is paper thin then stick a needle, or small nail, depending on the caliber used, and making a ragged hole. Looks very realistic.
:smiley:

9

Unless the backside of the part is visible, then the grinding looks awful. In that case, use thin sheet plastic or metal.
Ken

10

Thanks, I like your idea.
Jack

11

Thin sheet brass by K&S is usually available at hobby stores, especially ones that deal with model RR. Sheet brass is easily bent, folded, torn up, and punctured. The only drawback is that any surface detail has to be added or replicated on the metal, although generic PE sheet treadplate is available to make tank fenders, etc… Lead foil also has applications, but since it is a much softer metal than brass, behaves differently. It’s also more difficult to find.
:smiley:

12

As an afterthought, if you are using a Dremel to thin the plastic, mind your speed settings. Heat from speed friction will actually melt a hole through the plastic and make a much larger hole than you intended and could ruin your part. :scream: The Dremel is fast but you have to exercise caution. When the plastic becomes thin enough to see light through, it’s time to stop!
:smiley:

13

Thanks, I learned this the hard way using the dremel on my Big Toes funginail to thin it down like the Podiatrist does. However, without a slower speed, the heat hurts and I have to stop. Also using the dremel to saw does the same thing by melting rather than cutting. I think a sharp knife or scraping tool will be better for shrapnel nicks and crazes or ricocets.
DAKjunkie

14

I bought a Dremel speed control when I bought my first Dremel tool some 40 years ago. The dial goes from 0 (no power) to full power. A rheostat can be used between the power source and Dremel to perform the same function.
:smiley: