CITADEL Weathering Shaders, Texture Paints and Finishes

Question for Biggles or Karl or Anybody:

Does Citadel make a White transparent Shader?

I don’t think they do actually but Vallejo make an acrylic white wash. You can also make your own simply with Vallejo paints- take a white and add a few drops of Vallejo Glaze Medium and mix up with a well moistened brush. This basically creates a wash- if you get any overspill it can just be washed away with a brush and water.

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I was just wondering ??? - All their other shaders work so well but a transparent white shader would be an especially difficult challenge to manufacture!

In the past I have just used regular Grade School White Tempera Paint do German winter camo. (Quickly wash it off with running water if you don’t like the affect and try again.)
For straight white I have been using the Tamiya brush-on acrylic.

If I want to create just a general dustiness I use white and tan/yellow oil pastel chalk, especially on those monster big Russian 8x8 trucks with their solid jet black chassis. Spin Tires!



. .

Eventually the plan is that the dust and grime will get progressively thicker the farther back you go on the vehicle.


Link to the build thread on this big Russian MAZ 8x8:

https://forums.kitmaker.net/t/maz-7410-tractor-trailer-from-trumpeter/14732k

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Now Something Else for the Railroaders:*
Trumpeter (1/35th) track ties (sleepers) first painted muddy brown and then given a thorough over coat of the Citadel “Nuln Oil” black shader.

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Stonework:
To create this aged and broken stonework both the black and the sepia shaders were used over a very thin base coat of light gray paint.

The large wooden enclosure in the rear was again a base coat of some “Mud Brown” and just like the RR sleepers shown above, then given multiple applications of the black “Nuln Oil”.

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DISCLAIMER:

I have no association with the Citadel Company what so ever.

I am herein simply sharing information about what I consider to be an extremely high quality line of products that are nothing short of fantastic! That others may not be aware of!

Going forward, myself I feel, I could no longer continue being a somewhat successful modeler without the Citadel products in my tool kit.

Mike Koenig

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Some of us are sniggering, having discovered these paints years ago… :slight_smile:

OK digger rub it in! ~

Some of us have in the past only visited the “standard GI issue” hobbyshops and have foolishly thought the DnD shops had nothing to offer us that we could not already get through the base Quarter Master.

I was mistaken and it took my Fantasy Figure painting son to show me how wrong I was.

He sums it up perfectly when he says the Citadel products offer "Experience in a Bottle!"

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The Nuln Oil and Sepia Shaders are great for quickly weathering Containers:
Pastels (pigments) also used here.

p.s. Re: that faded hood on the Marine Mark LHS: It originally was the exact same shade of dark green paint as the rest of the vehicle. The cab of the vehicle got “dusted” but that hood got “faded” using the oil pastels. (The hoods on the real trucks are actually molded fiberglass - not metal - and they fade very quickly in sunlight,)

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Some of my latest uses for the Citadel products brushed over a base coat of Tamiya Red Oxide primer;
Two very similar bridges one small and one larger:




The wooden walkways use both the Black and the Sepia Citadel shaders over a base coat of Buff color.

Do I need to say it?: This bridge could easily become a one-lane horse and wagon roadway for a 1/35th Military Scale diorama set somewhere in WWII Central Europe with just the addition of a wood plank deck roadway.

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A good source of these Citadel Shaders, Texture Paints, and Colors are the wargaming stores that sell these brands to paint for wargaming miniatures. But you won’t find Testors, Tamiya, Gunze Sanyo, Humbrol, or enamels at these wargaming stores. Or you can buy them online; however, the best place to mix-and-match these Citadel paints would be at the wargaming store.

While local hobby shops and model kits stores have declined over the years in many parts of the West, comic book, prepaint, statues, dolls and collectibles, and wargaming stores have thrived, perhaps due to their more social nature (and the fact that one doesn’t have to cut, sand, build, and paint to achieve the final product).

Exactly what Trisaw said!

Quote from first post"
“To find these products you will have to go to the “Warhammer, Rusty Scabbard, Dragon Fire” type hobby stores but I promise you your trip will be well worth it! :dragon:”

Just bumping up what (IMHO) is a worthy topic.

It would appear that more people are aware of these products than I had at first thought.

Mike

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One more usage I just came across:

Use any dark stain (but not paint) to bring out the detail of these engine gratings.
(I used the Citadel Nuln Oil, black Shader.)
You don’t want to use paint because the paint will stay on the tops of the grating rods making the entire grating turn black, but using stain, it will run off the rods and gather in the depressions between the rods.

I suggest you keep you model level until the stain has fully dried.

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How can I tell the difference between the gloss and matte Citadel Shade paints?
I got a couple of these from my local game shop (after I figured out their weird hours of operation). Did some testing and they both seem to be thick and glossy even when thinned.

What’s your recommendation on thinning with water? I put a bit in a pallet dish with some water and messed around with it on a test mule.
I didn’t matte clear it, but I will next time. I’ve still got several spray cans of nasty Model Master lacquer matte overcoat that I’ll use next go round…

I think they are only gloss. I don’t recall seeing a matte version.

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Citadel does have some shaders that are marked gloss. They are a thicker viscosity with a bit more color tone. I don’t care for those as they tend not to be absorbed like a stain should. However all the shaders do dry with some degree of gloss.

This slight gloss never mattered to me because I always finish off with a coat of Tamiya Matte Clear, TS-80.

Also, while I have occasionally thinned with water, of late I have discovered that Citadel also offers a clear medium (Called Technical Lammian Medium) to be used for deluting the strength of the staining affects. I was so happy with how that worked that I have now started using that exclusively.

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Thanks.

Rather than deal with the game shop, I just ordered some of the technical stuff online.

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The ones labelled gloss obviously are while the rest are satin/semigloss

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That’s the trick! Nuln Oil is supposed to be usable straight out of the pot, but I’ve always found it too thick with a tendency to pool if used as an overall wash which my home brew (old Klear with a little Rotring Ink) doeasn’t.

Cheers,

M

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