Think it was a couple of weeks ago,I saw a post concerning 1/35 razor (concertina) wire and a product was mentioned along with supplier,I failed to make note and now I want some,can anyone help with this
This one ?
H.P.
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In 1/35 scale, Eduard and a company called Hauler make PE versions of razor wire. Verlinden used to but I don’t if they’re still available. If you look online (eBay for instance) under phot-etched razor wire you should find more manufacturers; just make sure it’s not “barbed” wire.
Thanks for the reply,yep that’s it.after a closer look I find it disappointing.but found a brand (Zebrano) that does a coil of barbed wire that really looks the part,will be using it in a nam era time,so I think I can get away with it.
Thanks,found a bunch on eBay and I’m thinking on going with the Zebrano brand,granted it’s barbed wire but it looks so good,it will be adorning nam era vehicles.
So do I…To me the Army Painter stuff suspiciously looks like mundane sealing wire
Maybe it could create illusion from a distance… 
H.P.
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The Army Painter wire is intended for 28mm table-top gaming - gotta be durable for repeated handling, cheap, and only needs to give the impression of what it is. It’s not sold with “fine scale” modelers as the intended target consumers.
Coiled barbed wire was used in the Vietnam era and beyound. We were still using it in our motorpool in Germany in the early 1980s:
Besides, in 1/35 scale photo-etch, it’s hard to tell the difference.
If you are going to be using it as concertina wire, it should be coiled up to a diameter of about 3 feet/1 meter, or about half the size of a 1/35 figure.
Ken
Ahhh…“Death From a Thousand Cuts”! 
And remember on a diorama include some trip flares, claymores out front and c rat cans hanging in the wire. Not that all those things necessarily stopped sappers but the little details like that take it 'next level’s. I bought a roll of Army Painter as shown above, it looks like it scale out just fine in my eyes.
On a typical fire base (or even a base camp) you will often see both types of wire together, They were shipped out in rolls that are about six inches thick. We always held the wire upright with generic engineer’s stakes, but have used bamboo in a pinch. You set your trip flares in groups of three to four, and all wired together with string or fishing line. Between you and the flare you build up a mound of dirt right behind the flare to prevent night blindness. If you’re blind you can’t shoot very well. I’ve see videos with the back sides of Claymore Mines facing the users. I guess it’s OK if the mine is out there two hundred feet due to the back blast. I’ve seen one group put them in front of large boulders only to have that big rock come flying back at them (it happened to me when I was an FNG). You always study the area and figure out what would be the best direction for a probe. Then set them up to shoot across from you. We usually put reflective tape on the back sides when we could lay our hands on a roll. I’ve seen them setup with trip flares many times, so when you pick it up you set off the flare. Never a good situation on either end I might add. Others placed a grenade under them, and have seen them sitting ontop anti personnel mines (those little round bastards) . Beer cans in the wire was considered a must, but didn’t work as well as we wanted them to. Best cans were Budweiser white beer cans (you paint the outside half black or O.D.) that had several rocks or even ball bearings inside them. Always tie them up high to make the guy get on his knees at least. That’s also a good tie in point for a trip flare. The grand scheme of things is to prevent the other guy from cutting a hole in the wire (they always did I might add)
Now that we know how to set up the wire, there is some other things to make you worry. Never leave the wire on top the ground, and somewhere in the middle wire in a trip flare and cover it with a little bit of dirt. Remove the safeties from the clacker!! I’ve seen some hang up with the neighbors fifty feet out. A good bunker on the line will have two different sets of clackers. One set will be for claymores and the other for foo gas. They are never kept together for obvious reason. I’ve seen Arty units put left over gun powder (about three quarters of an inch thick) on the ground a lightly cover it up while the wire is ontop of it. How this works I can’t say, but I wouldn’t want to be on the wrong end. We kept two 7.62 ammo cans full of grenades on both sides of the dug out. Then another in the middle with four to six WP grenades. There would also be a hand full of red or white star clusters flares. If one goes off in the air; everybody sees it. I hated working with barbed wire or what we called German Wire (razor wire). The engineer’s stakes are key here as they are sturdy, and you can wire the barb wire to the with bailing wire. The bad part is getting the not so lucky folks out of the wire after you shoot them. In two days the aroma is wonderful (120 degree heat)
gary
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I know that Alliance Modelworks used to make different types of barbed wire, including concertina wire. It was PE. I bought only the WW2 style barbed wire – I think it’s the best on the market. Thin and to scale. Indeed, I have to use tweezers to manipulate it as the barbs catch the flesh of my fingers. If I wanted concertina type wire, I’d get their product too. I think they may be OOP – is the problem though