Construction of the Space probe for NASA's Psyche Mission

Boy those wires are working pretty well. That coin did not cause any bend. Well done buddy!!

@Uncle-Heavy Robin, please help out of German friend with his question. TIA


I hope I have fixed it so that Manfred can edit that post …


Just catching up now on this great real space project. :+1::+1:


Hi Robin,

sorry, but my post 16/24 from April 8 unfortunately I cannot edit in order to correct the wrong color coding of acupuncture needle, maybe you can do it for me, thanks.

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Thanks Tank_1812 for your interest, I hope you will stay tuned.

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Thanks Mike for your nice compliments too. I hope you are doing well.

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I tried.
Did I change it correctly?

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Thanks Robin, now it is correct, but unfortunately this post is twice, I don’t know why?

From the beginning
"Hello everybody,
today I dared to the cross struts (brass wire Ø 0,5 mm), but gluing them in turned out to be extremely difficult, which required a lot of sensitivity.

up to the end.

“which I like better that way.”

Cause one is enough, can you delete one of them?

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One post deleted

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Thanks Robin for your support.

It looks better now.


Hello friends,

the longer I look at the greatly simplified Solar probe body from the Paper Kit and compare it with NASA photos and videos, the more things I notice that I don’t like yet, which is why I decided to scratch several details that were only printed and thereby refine the probe’s outfit a little.

The X-Band High Gain Antenna shown in the kit as a flat cone actually has, like all space probe antennas, an inwardly curved, concave shape and is covered by a foil, whereby it because of the three struts underneath just appears as a flat cone, which I already covered by gluing on Aluminium foil.

That’s why I first stuck over the blue outline of the antenna on the top of the probe, which is simply wrong there and is just irritating.

But I could saved myself that, because as you can see on NASA videos, the sides of the probe body are partially covered with reflective silver and black foil, which is why I came up with a new idea.

And since I like to use different materials, I have looked for suitable stuff in my stocks and found some too,

such as:

1 Aluminum household foil, smooth, shiny front

2 Aluminum household foil, heavily creased, matt shiny back

3 Aluminum household foil, slightly wrinkled, matt shiny back

4 Plastic film (, , is certainly familiar for German dog owners.

5 Construction paper, black, smooth

6 Construction paper, black, slightly creased

Now I just have to decide, although I’m leaning towards aluminum foil and paper because it’s easier to glue.

Then I looked closer at the rod constructions at the two corners, which are also covered, but I still have to take a closer look at them. At the top of the wider construction there is a Gamma-ray spectrometer for analyzing Gamma-ray spectra.

In order to be able to scratch these constructions, I first have to determine their dimensions, which is known to be a stressful business of measuring and scaling based on a reference dimension.

At least I’ve already started with the wider construction. The one on the opposite side is narrower, for whatever reason.

Source: Arizona PBS

This will be another stressful torture for my eyes again, but don’t panic, they always survived it so far.


Always really impressed with the amount of time and effort you put into researching and improving your technique to get a true visual effect :+1:


Thanks John for your kind words.

This know-how is part of my experience and the result of my years of work in scratch model building.

This effort is the price for my attention to detail, and only this way my skill could develop to that level over the years.

Or with other words - No pain no gain!


Hello everybody,

and since I’ve just gotten my head around my approved scaling procedure again, I want to continue straight away and have done the same on the opposite side with the narrower rod system, which is also covered with foil.

It is always important to define a reference dimension for scaling all other dimensions, in this case the height of my model probe body.

In addition to the dimensions of the rod systems, I also have the dimensions of the Deep Space Optical Communications (DSOC) System and the two probe engines (Hall-effect Thrusters) determined.

The DSOC dimensions can be determined a little more precisely in this image, which is why a plausibility analysis is still advisable between similar images to select the final dimensions.

At this point I would like to point out to anyone interested this video image (1:36:22), where based on this model the individual parts of the Psyche probe, are explained clearly, which was very helpful for me in terms of overall understanding.

If you want to watch the whole video from the beginning, you should skip the meaningless opening credits by clicking the next linked image and scroll to this point at the timeline (1:30).

On the back of the probe there is this covered transverse rod system, which connects the two side rod systems.

With these dimensions I can now create assembly sketches for all three the [color=blue]rod systems[/color] and for the claddings.

And then we’ll see.


Hello everybody,

I still found a better material for the dark covering of the probe sides and rod systems. cool.gif

I had an appetite for After Eight once again, and when I unpacked it I had the little wrappers between my fingers and immediately thought Eureka - I have it! up037692.gif


The outside of the cases is matt black and the inside is glossy. up039822.gif And after I’ve crumpled up and then unfolded it again I think that this variant is the best solution. up045518.gif

Then I thought about how best to scratch the foot of the X-Band High Gain Antenna, idea1_2.gif but so far I haven’t been able to find a useful photo that would show it in more detail.

Since you can hardly see the base anyway, I first cut a small cylinder out of a discarded ballpoint pen and stuck it under my existing antenna, what I also wanted to cover with aluminum foil.

Then in this image it almost looked to me as if there was a cone-shaped cover beneath the antenna, undecided.gif


which is why I’ve enlarged it again, which seems to confirm my suspicion.


That’s why I covered this paper lampshade with foil,



and glued from below over the base against the bottom of the antenna.


Here the antenna, covered in this way, is only temporarily placed on the probe, but that still doesn’t convince me. huh.gif


As one can clearly see on this model, the entire lower part of the antenna is loosely covered with dark foil.


That’s why I’m going to rethink the entire cladding of the space probe including the rod systems and use both shiny aluminum foil and the After Eight paper. up040577.gif


Wow, wow, step away from
those chocolates. I don’t think the dentist will like this.

Doc: Mr. Manfrad what happened? What has cause this cavity at this ago.

Patient: modeling!

Doc: …whhhaaaatttt???


What’s not to love … Modelling and chocolate lol


These are only small delicious things I occasionally snack, and when I do, not during modeling.

So don’t panic, Mike and John. up040577.gif

BTW, but I would rather not have to go to this doctor.


Hello everybody,

Brevity is the soul of wit!

By using the laboriously determined dimensions of the cladded rod systems I’ve created this drawing on a scale of 1:1,

with the help of which I can now first cut the claddings of the rod systems. For the rods themselves I will use steel wire (Ø 1 mm).
That’s it for today, I have to go to bed sooner again.


Hello everybody,

today it was time to implement the sketched parts of the [color=blue]rod systems[/color] and their claddings, whereby I changed my plans again a bit and because of the easier gluing of the Foil cladding will not use steel wire but plastic round rods.

First, as a test, I inserted a rod Evergreen Styrene Rods (Ø 1 mm) of the rear rod system into the pre-drilled holes in the probe top, down to the ground,

and then cut both rods to the required length (40 mm).

Then I thought about the fact that for the stability of the entire frame it would be useful to glue a connecting plate made of cardboard (0,9 mm) between the two rods on which I could then stick the black After Eight paper on both sides as a cladding, which would probably be the easiest solution.

Said and done!

Meanwhile I also decided to make the entire cladding from three parts, which are then glued one after the other, starting at the back.

To do this, I first transferred the back onto the black paper and cut it out,

and after crumpling it was glued to the back of the rod system.

Finally, I also tried adding the white markings that can be seen on all sides of the claddings.


For this I used a white permanent marker (Montana Acrylic), which I tried out first.

And since the dashes on the smooth paper are also smudge-proof, I then marked both sides of the rear panel, which is not that easy as the marker sometimes fails and has to be shaken again.

And this is what the result looks like from both sides, which I can live with.

Now I can make the side claddings in the same way and then glue.