Correcting Tamiya Panther Ausf A info needed!

We also need qualifying criteria.
Maybe list the most offending reason. Tamiyas Panther is on the list because of inaccuracies, not build issues.

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Yes I have a Dragon Scud also Brian lol; it’s on my list of kits I’m getting rid of, I may have a LHS owner ready to take it off my hands….didn’t realize it was that bad though.

What’s wrong with the Tamiya M-42 Duster?
Ken

I think @SSGToms Matt’s comments suggest an excellent criteria:

None of the undetailed inaccurate parts fit together.

Fit issues, lack of detail & inaccurate.

Candidate kits must meet 2 out of 3.

Kits meeting all three like Alan’s SU-76M are automatically on the list.

The Tamiya Panther A should be included in my opinion being it meets 2 out of 3 and is the kit that kicked off the whole discussion:)

@tankerken Ken, I noticed the Tamiya M-42 Duster mentioned in one of several threads I skimmed coming up with candidates for the list. The details is poor. Not sure about accuracy or fit.
Maybe it shouldn’t be on the list?

Many of the early Tamiya hulls are WAY off dimension-wise because they were built around 2 “C” cell batteries and a gear box, not the measurements of the actual vehicle. This makes the rest of the kit, to keep in proportion, way off too. The old Panther A and M-42 are 2 of those kits. Detail is also poor because they were made as rug-runners.

Here’s

#1. Tamiya Panther A - inaccurate, lack of details, rug runner, fit is good - started discussion, I’ve build kit 3x

#2. Lindberg T-55 - inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit also poor mold quality - s I’ve build kit once.

#3. Alan SU-76M - (my all time worst, many mentions as worst kit) inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit also poor mold quality - I’ve build kit once.

#4. Italeri Panther A - inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit also poor mold quality - I’ve build kit once.

#5. Cyber-Hobby T-34/76 STZ Mod. 1942 - very bad fit rear plate, test fitted, detailed, nice mold quality - maybe should be off list.

#6. ESCI T-72 - by reputation, no first experience

#7. Dragon/DML SCUD B - by reputation, no first experience

#8. ESCI Demag 7 - poor fit, built 33 years ago…can’t recall everything I hated about it…and I hated everything about it…maybe should be off list?

#9. GLENCOE 1/32 BTR-50 - better models could be found in a cat’s litter box. Very nasty on inspection. Didn’t try to build. Need first hand insights.

#10. Tauro A7V - legendary bad fit, poor design, inaccurate and lack of details cause you sand them off making it fit together which is unnatural. Multiple sources. Saw one in box it was terrible looking. Have not build.

#11. Maquette ASU-57 - reputation saw in several supporting threads. inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit

#12. NITTO Sd.Kfz.251 - inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit also poor mold quality - s I’ve build kit once.

#13. Military Wheel UAZ-469 - reputation saw in several supporting threads. inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit

#14. Bronco Hotchkiss H38/39 - reputation saw in several supporting threads. inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit

#15. SKIF BTR-152 - reputation saw in several supporting threads. inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit

#16. Nichimo/Revell Sdkfz 251 Stuka - inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit also poor mold quality - s I’ve build kit once.

#17. Blue Tank Alligator LVT[A]5 - looked horrible in the box. Reputation saw in several supporting threads. inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit

#18. Alan Wespe - Reputation saw in several supporting threads. inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit

#19. Tamiya M42 Duster - details, inaccurate, rug runner, removed from list?

#20. Dragon/DML Nashorn kit #6001 - inaccurate, lack of details, poor fit also poor mold quality. The kit was so wrong DML fired the kits draftsman. Built once.

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Would you even be able to get #12 any more? I hope not! I’ve made it many, many years ago. It must be even more inaccurate than the Tamiya Panther A surely? Three features stand out: 1) the totally spurious trailer to take the batteries (yes really!); 2) the instructions to add the /6 aerial along with the rocket packs (no additional radios provided); 3) the crew, even if you were blind you could feel that they weren’t even humanoid, let alone human!
For #3 you could probably substitute anything early by Alan. However they seemed to excel themselves with poor fit and inaccuracy on Russian subjects, which is strange as they were a Russian company!

I started to build the DML Nashorn once. Got about halfway thru and grew so frustrated I literally punched it. Twice! . Then binned it. I still have the Italieri Panther in stash though. Would be willing to join up with that one. And I promise to remain calm.
Jesse

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Here’s one you missed; Hitler’s Car, complete with Adolf and friends.
hitler’s car 1/35th model - Bing images

I can’t remember who made it, but it had pre-coloured parts, black wings white body and a huge (and I do mean huge) metal gearbox which hung out the back for the obligatory electric motor. Unlike the old AMT (was it) Rommels Wagen, it was meant to replicate a real vehicle, a Mercedes G4.
I think people are being a bit unfair to the Esci Demag and the Tamiya Duster. They did at least look SOMETHING like the original vehicle. The Esci D7 is still available in one version as Revell’s Sdkfz 10/4. While it’s obviously not a patch on DML’s version it can be made into an acceptable looking model IMHO.

The Tamiya Sdkfz 7 from the 70’s illustrates how desperate we were for large scale German equipment. It was also a “rug runner”, the batteries went in a hidden box which was under the ammunition lockers. The tracks were plain on the inside (of course), like all “rug runners”. Yet at the time it passed for an accurate model. It’s still available in both prime mover and Sdkfz 7/1 form, still with the same tracks! What amused me the most was that they ran beautifully until you painted them, then they never ran again (strangely, same goes for their Mk IV British WW1 tank)!

Ah now you’re talking; the manufacturer was erroneously referred to as “Tilt” due to the image-type logo on the box art. I still have one - uncompleted of course true to, sadly, form.

I’m not too sure how the vehicle checks out dimensionally, but the figures aren’t that bad. The SS bods in collar and tie could be useful elsewhere but I doubt there’s many of these still around. Hmmm.

Ah - my much neglected stash of 3 x ASU 57s; what the hell am I ever going to do with them?

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@RonW Ron, I apologize for helping steer and expand your thread way off of topic.

@Hohenstaufen I think the Hilter staff car would be a nice addition but I can’t find one for sale. Who was the manufacturer?

Will remove the Tamiya M42 Duster from the list.

#12. NITTO Sd.Kfz.251 - found a couple listed for sale at $30+ on Ebay. Somewhat available but absolutely not worth $30

Should we remove a kit for “limited” availability if it’s hard to find or expensive? Say over roughly $35, £26, 30€ or ¥3850 etc

@oldbean Jesse, that DML Nashorn is indeed pretty nasty. I used more Molak Stucco Putty filling in sinkmarks on that DML dog :dog2: kit than I used doing Zimmerit on a Pz IV :slight_smile:

@BootsDMS Brian, sounds like you could be the local ASU-57 dealer…wink

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Sigh (my true purpose in life obviously, as they’ll probably never get built) What the hell, with some PzKw 1 tracks, a Modelpoint barrel or 2 then…?

You beat my by one ASU-57 :wink:
Much to my regret I managed to buy a second one due to forgetting I already had one :cry:
:bulb: Maybe build one OOB and go the whole nine yards on the other …

Well Robin, the plan (so, so long ago) was to portray 2 x as gun tanks and then try and make a command vehicle, populated with say, converted Dragon figures, and perhaps some assaulting VDV figures from the same manufacturer; dear God, I was so optimistic back when I bought them (in all 3 iterations from the various manufacturers). Yet, there they languish, in my stash in the attic. Still.

Do you mean the Monogram “Rommel’s Rod”?

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If anyone decides to go for the UAZ-469.
YouTube video about restoring a UAZ-469 wreck

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I’d love to build a UAZ, but prefer the plastic wreck, not a real 1:1 metal one.

Inspiration for extreme weathering in the beginning
and
information for a clean build closer to the end
:wink:

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