If the proof is in the pudding then . . . See if these are flat enough for you:
Seen here are all flat military colors with a dry coat of Tamiya Matte Clear over that and probably in some cases more than a little weathering. (All paints are either rattle can or brush on shading washes over sprayed with Tamiya Matte Clear.)
I intentually left this photo large so you could see just how matte (flat) that curved hood really was. Also how well the Tamiya Matte Clear helps smooth out the decals. - I use Future on all my decals - liberally brushed on and then allowed to dry completely.
In the trailer photo with the car I have only painted the rear fenders with the straight Panzer Gray - no clear coat or weathering there yet. - See the shine?
Michael @165thspc and Richard @RDT1953 thanks for your input guys, I have to confess I hate rattle cans period but some swear by them, seems counter productive to have this AB/compressor setup and not utilize it for all aspects of my painting process so I came across a lacquer based Testors “DullCoat” to use on my current build, a LARC V, spent a couple or more hours yesterday hoseing it down with Alclad aluminums and the finish looks kinda funky but I’ve got some more work to do on it. Mike your dozer and prime mover look great and I agree that’s the finish I expect on all my builds, that’s why I get bent when they turn out glossy . . . every model is a learning adventure right!
I own a compressor with a fairly large tank and an Air Brush but hardly ever use them. I live in an apartment now so the noise of the compressor running is deafening to the entire building. As it was I was charging the tank early in the evening and then stopping whenever the tank ran out. Now I use rattle cans for everything including multi-color camo. (My camo is not the best I admit)
If you don’t want to give up the air brush then at least consider becoming friends with Tamiya’s Matte Clear rattle can - your models will thank you for it!
Also consider the time factor when doing color changes - sit one can down, pick the next can up. Bingo you are back to painting (You can even spray the matte clear coat while the base color is still wet!)
Also NO clean up! When you’re done, you’re done. (I wipe off the can nozzle with a paper towel to prevent paint building up - that’s my clean up!)
p.s. I NEVER take the cap off two paint spray cans at the same time. Too much chance of picking up the wrong one and ruining a good model!
I recently custom painted and lettered some Bachmann On30 plastic railroad boxcars. As always I brushed on Future liberally to set and seal all the decals.
The first photo shows just how shiny and BAD the car looked with only the glossy floor wax.
The second photo shows what a “dry” application of the Tamiya Matte Clear can really do!
The third shows the car after final weathering using soft pastels.
The environment is always going to be a factor. Top surfaces exposed to the elements will have a much flatter surface than vertical sides. It’s not unusual to have a vehicle that has a mix of shiny and flat surfaces.
