I am using Tamiya’s rattle cans and the color was wrong. Simple green works well removing their acrylic paints from the bottle but not paint from the spray can. What do you use?
Any possibility of repaint without a strip being required?
Long ago, I used brake fluid but it can effect filler work etc in some cases. Easy Off Oven cleaner likewise. Definitely test on scrap plastic before taking the nuclear option.
Lacquer can be very difficult to impossible to strip as it bites plastic. Learned that with Humbrol thinned with household Lacquer thinner the hard way.
You can get a bottle of TAMIYA PAINT REMOVER:…will remove any type of paint.
1st issue is the paint color. Since it’s over White, the primer changing the color can’t be responsible for it. Next I went back to your original post and enlarged the picture of the car body after painting. Two things became apparent. 1st that the paint matches the Tamiya rattle can top in the background perfectly. 2nd, the car in the background directly behind the painted body is the correct color you’re looking for, but isn’t the same as the Tamiya top and your currently painted body. So this leds me to the question of exactly what is the name and number of the Tamiya Rattle can.
The reason for the number is that I just went to the Tamiya site and they list 6 different Orange rattle cans: TS98 Pure Orange, TS96 Florescent Orange, TS92 Metallic Orange, TS56 Brilliant Orange, TS31 Bright Orange, and TS12 Orange. All seem like different shades but it’s hard for me to tell from those little chips. Maybe the shade you used was more of a Redish Orange.
As for your question concerning stripping the paint, Tamiya bottle paint is an Acrylic Lacquer and Simple Green does work on it. Tamiya Rattle cans are pure Lacquer base. For stripping lacquer I use Denatured Alcohol which does work and will even remove lacquer based primers. It won’t melt or damage plastic, and it doesn’t smell.
I have used Tamiya’s paint remover, to remove Tamiya rattle can paint; it work fine, just don’t leave it for to long, in the PR, as it will soften the plastic.
I forgot a piece, of plastic, in the paint remover(Almost 24 hours) It looked rather funny, since the paint had lifted completely and floated like a bag, with a piece of plastic in it. The plastic had soften, but 24 hours is quite extreme.
Thanks everyone. I am trying denatured alcohol and if that doesn’t work the Tamiya stripper will be next.
Beware using brake fluid if there is any resin as it will attack/distort/soften the resin. Good luck.
Great info on Brake fluid interacting with Resin. I had no idea as it doesn’t seem to attack plastic.
This is after 12 hours in denatured alcohol. The black came off, most of the orange and white came off and the primer in a few spots came off. Now for some 600 and 1000 grits and we will try it again.
the stripping worked just fine. I usually use an old toothbrush and start working the body after 30 min or so. the paint no matter the type really starts to come off quickly including the lacquer primer.