Do you paint/weather hidden parts?

Like others,it depends on the kit I will mostly paint everything seen

Great subject! I’ve been at it from both sides - painted and detailed parts that end up hidden and gone the other way. These days I focus the most effort on the parts I want to draw attention to. My builds are secured in a cabinet or photographed. That means I control the angles from which a model is seen. I do paint areas that are largely hidden and might peek out but they won’t be weathered extensively. That’s as far as I go. I wouldn’t paint an aircraft engine that is completely hidden in the fuselage for example, and I’d leave out all the detail except what’s needed for construction. In the end it’s all about doing what we like, I guess. Your model, your way :slight_smile:

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I always base paint the entire model with black to ensure no plastic/resin/PE color on the finished model. I also paint the bottom with the base color (typically green) because that is the test area for the paint mixture, airbrush setting etc…
I usually do not weather unseen parts (bottom) because I build for myself only. But I always make sure that the inner side of the wheels and the tracks all-around are properly painted and weathered as they can be seen in a certain perspective.
The most important reason is not only realistic look but also I do not want to waste any model entirely to learn new techniques and these hidden areas are perfect targets for such experiences.

Also the internal areas are used for such tries. I am happy to practice weathering of the fighting compartment on a tank where the hatches will be closed on the finished model, so an M-113 APC interior will be easy subject to tackle.
My motto: Practice on anything you can use.

I’m a bit confused. I find it is easier to paint everything when I’m spraying. To try to miss bits out would just be a fag. In fact I normally START with the bits you can’t see to check the mix and airbrush settings. I always paint inside vehicles because I never make them fully “buttoned up”, I just think they look better with hatches open, even if I then put figures in them. I also use a primer cum pre-shade of Humbrol Matt Black on everything I make except figures.

goes to Armorcon ONCE

:joy: But in all seriousness, I think Ezra has a point if you plan to go to competitions. I on the other hand am more into building stuff for my own enjoyment (the Yamato I’m doing, for instance, is destined for my office, not a contest, so I’m perfectly happy to focus on making something that looks nice, rather than something flawless.

So at the end of the day, it’s all really up to individual preference! As long as YOU like the finished product, what other people think doesn’t matter :call_me_hand:

Dennis

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I got converted what can I say? :rofl:

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HI Nightgaunt,
It will depend a lot on whether it will really be seen or not, and I do not mean only that in a “normal” or resting state, for example a tank, certain parts are not seen, but also when that model is observed more carefully, it is taken To observe its details, then, all or almost all the areas where we have not worked, will be exposed, with the consequent devaluation of the work previously carried out and given as finished, with good quality even …
For my part, although I recognize that it bores me somewhat, I try that all the areas that can be seen, from a normal angle, or from a more exhaustive evaluation, are at the same level as what is normally seen …
If it helps, right now I have a model posted on the forum, that you can see what I say.
I include a link in case you are interested.
Cheers and TC
Francis.
https://armorama.com/news/js-2-stalin-1-35-trumpeter-the-brute-of-red-tide

Anyone who has looked at any of my builds know that I always WAY over detail things, adding function to features that no one will activate, and detail to interiors that no one will see.

But as has been said by others, I build for MY satisfaction and since I enjoy the challenge of adding functional items like working doors and hatches, because of my OCD engineering brain, I don’t see that changing. Quite frankly I get as much enjoyment from the PROCESS as from the PRODUCT.

This is a HOBBY and my philosophy is that what I do, I do for my OWN enjoyment. I absolutely don’t approach a build with the idea of what might be of importance to some judge, because in my mind it’s not a contest. The only judge I consider is me.

And that applies to others as well. Whatever approach YOU prefer in YOUR modeling is YOUR choice!

Are there tips and techniques which you might want to adopt to improve your skill set? Of course.

But at the end of the day if YOU’RE happy with your work, that’s all that REALLY matters.

As my college roommate used to say, “He don’t buy my beer!”

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That is a perfectly reasonable way to do things, and it works for you. That’s all you need to know.
Ken

My two cents here. I am in the same boat; I don’t do upper half of tracks if they are hidden. I don’t paint areas that will be imposible to see. I am not lazy, but spending hours and hours working on a silly set of tracks does not compute. I prefer to use my time wisely. I decided to take this hobby as a distraction and not as source of frustration! I also agree with those who say they are building them for themselves, not for a judge. At the end of the day, let us enjoy the hobby.

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I’ve been building models that have interiors or where I super-detail engines and wheel wells. Often this stuff is very hard to visual when buttoned up, but…

I photograph and post build threads on everything I do so all this future-hidden stuff is there to be seen. I also am constantly pushing the envelope on what I can do so working on the intricacies is fun for me. Lastly there’s that competition thing. I only entered one judged meet (so far) and got a best ship for my Missouri and gold for my Essex. The extra effort pays off.

Finally, it depends on why you build in the first place. I enjoy the building and the more complex the better I like it. Once built I either stick it on a shelf, display it at the hobby shop, or, if a commission job, give it to the owner.

I’ll throw my hat into this ring…

For an Inside without an interior I paint it black if a figure will be in the hatch. If buttoned up I don’t paint the inside.

As for the Outside I always paint and weather the all areas. I usually start on the bottom. This helps me get into the zone or try something a bit different or new. If I mess it up it won’t be seen so no big loss. Your not wasting product on areas not see as your improving your skill set and as I say…Practice…Practice…Practice!
:v: :nerd_face:

So far my plan has been:

-prime and base paint everything

-ignore interior details that are 100% invisible

-only weather visible parts.

For example, my bottom tracks are only partially weathered, just the “outside” part, the interior part stays hidden forever unless the tank gets somehow toppled.

Also, the bottom of my KV-2 turret is primed, painted and varnished, but it won’t get any weathering.
Same for the hull bottom, except that will be used as testbed for pigments.

Sounds like a good plan to me.
Ken