Hi, thanks for response
The first picture was made by me in paint, thats why it looks like the flemish bond. I just tried to paint the concept of making corner in english bond.
I will be using tiny cork bricks.
The main view will be outside of the factory but I would like to add some detail to the inside. Im thinking pipes; I, L beams, destroyed roof, stairs.
I forgot to mention that the factory will be destroyed.
I am worried about the cork bricks. I started to make some but the shape of them is kinda irregular. I find the cork hard to work with. I am kind of a perfectionist and it really bugs me that the sizes of the bricks will not be completely the same.
That’s to “stiffen” the Wall. If you have a long wall, like this Factory wall, it is always good to make it more rigid. It is also most likely were the Roof girders rest on. If you look closely at the picture you can see how they did it. The brick sits out the width of a brick plus a mortar joint (10-12mm).
They rest on the brick wall and there are bricks around it.
The width of the wall is most likely around 36.5cm. You get that measurement with a runner plus a header. So you lay your runner and behind it you lay a header plus a (10-12mm) joint in between.
I don’t envy you building it brick-by-brick. Here’s my alternative method used to make cobbled streets but the principle’s the same for brickwork. Best plastered approx. 2mm thick in manageable sections & imprinted when nearly dry. Bonus is the low-ish cost on both wallet & sanity…
But I cant/dont know how to use it so I can cut small stripes of cork (2 mm). When I try it the stripes tear or are not even close to being straight. Is it because of the cork im using? I am using a 4 mm thick cork and I find it really tough. I need to use a lot of strenght and then the preciseness goes away. I even tried to use a thinner cork - 1 mm. But that is just too thin.
I am starting to think, that a styrofoam or plaster would be a better idea.
Edit: I went into the shop with construction materials and there was only a textured xps polystyrene. I even looked at eshops in my country and all of them were textured. Were do you buy it?
As for ‘bricked-up’ arches, it could be as suggested by Ryan (Tank_1812) that the windows might have been filled in as they were not needed but, sometimes, it was a deliberate architectural feature (known as a ‘blind arch’). If it was an attempt to infill an existing aperture then the brick courses and/or pattern would, most likely, not be the same as the surrounding walls, whereas if it was an architectural feature everything would appear similar.
It is likely that the thicker wall/buttress would typically follow the same pattern as the rest of the walls.
Creating the brickwork at the head of a window or door aperture needs some care to get it looking right.
I used scribed clay on my 1/72nd buildings below, but first marked the pattern in pencil until I thought it looked right:
The brick dimensions given here are not correct for English bricks.
An English brick is 9” long x 4” wide by 21/4” high or 215mm x 102.5mm x 65mm. The mortar joint is 10mm.
A brick is twice as long as it is wide + the mortar joint.
The soldier arches in the picture of the build wall are 1 brick high and the arch rises 1 brick high.
To make your life very simple.
All dims should be equal divisible by a brick dimension + a mortar joint.
So a brick dim is usually quoted as;
75mm high. (75 X 2 = 225mm)
112.5mm wide (112.5 X 2 = 225mm)
Indeed, absolutely correct!
That is why I had to use Google translate to give me the cyrillic letters for “standard brick size”
so that I could search for the Russian standard brick size.
Since the original post asked for:
“Hi, I want to build 1:35 soviet factory in english bond. I am practically still a kid and have never seen a bigger brick structure in my life so I have a couple of question.”
The expression ‘english bond’ can lead the thought to english brick size but since this was to be a Russian factory I thought that Russian brick standard would be the most appropriate.
I have set the width to brick and using the 5mm cork.
Having the cork flush I just glide across having firm but not hard contact with the cork. Then with the same setting I tried with the 1mm and that didn’t work. I changed the setting cobblestone. With thin cork laying on the bench, just glide across. Double check you blade is not below the tool otherwise you will cut the table too.