At the start of June I received FC Model Trends FSV but noted some problems this the base plate to me is a major issue as indicated in the 1st photo especially the right hand side, which is crooked and while I had my M76 Otter on the go I didn’t really want to kick this off. So I checked FC’s website photos this seems to be a design error rather than a printing error as the same fault is seen on the site photo. The number of bolt heads is way too many, 26 along the base on my ref photo it should be 10. The next pic is the base plate I made including measurements (I am not purporting this to be accurate but it is closer to the real thing). The next issue is the turret mounting ring on the real vehicle it is under cut (stepped in) and the third photo shows the radius and a height of 4mm. Couldn’t leave it so I made a start, I was using Master Clubs bolt head on washer 1.2mm but as it turned out I am now at V.4 the base plate and started to run low on Master Club so have used DecalCas Hexagon Flange Bolts 1.25mm. As I had as yet to complete Geckos M76 Otter this was just the preliminary work. Now the Otter is awaiting paint I have started and done the turret roof and driver’s hatch and will add these over the next few days.
This was from 11 Jul: I have kick off the FSV, I changed the measurements for the base plate but still not happy however I have left it as is due to running out of hull roofs, this is version 4 (and I’m using to many bolt heads). The measurements in the first photo are what I went with but if I was to do this again, I would change the length of left side measuring from the top from 60 to 62 and the base measuring from right to left from 44 to 46 this to me seems like a better size but again not professing it to be accurate. The next photo is the base plate fitted to hull roof, bolts in place and Grey Fox Concepts footman loops in situ and the mounting ring on, the green around the ring is Green Stuff putty I hope will replicate a weld seam. The turret is quite good however I replaced the tie downs with brass I searched for my 0.3mm couldn’t find it so used 0.5 and behold 2 days later found the 0.3 (bloody typical), made lenses from clear sprue filed and shaped and attached the hatches, which do not fully close but I planned to leave them open so no biggy. Lastly, I attached Grey Fox Concepts belly armour (an excellent choice) and inserted the bolts along the side of the hull. The next thing I need to figure out is the bump stop heights for the turret hatches but no rush as yet as I am working on the oversized drivers hatch 2mm in diameter to big for the AFV Club LRV, most likely I will cut off the mounting attachment and glue this onto the kit supplied hatch.
The trouble is get hold of the Tamiya kit, and also the deck plate is wrong and I would have had to make one anyway. The FC Trends turret is good at least on par with Tamiya which I feel was the basis for their print, and with a bit of f…ing about the hatch could close
Some additional work on the FSV, before I go further, I have to say I am not a rivet counter and while I will add some detail; this detail is stuff that sticks out like dogs’ balls and either I can easily add or be bothered to add; so, if I miss something I miss it. I build to please just me, but if others like it great but if you wish to nitpick don’t do it here, I’ll just think of you as some sort of dick, which gets me to the driver’s hatch. As mentioned last time the hatch is 2mm oversized for the AFV Club kit so out with the saw and cut off the mounting arm. I made a new plate for the arm to attach to the hatch as it is held in place by 4 bolts I had to as best I could remove the edges of existing base place and add a new one with extended edges. I noted when looking at the position of the rotating mount that a triangular piece sat just in front of it (picture 1) and figured that this was used to raise the hatch when rotating, (dogs’ balls) lucky this was easy to rectify. Part B8 is unused for the LRV and the rear of it was just the right height. A bit of cutting, filing, drill a hole for the bolt head and cut a small triangular support bracket and yip yar I had the piece, but noted with the enlarged photo that I need to push the bolt head in further. The vision block shrouds are easily broken on this kit and the one here will be repaired hopefully to make it appear bent, the vision blocks have been coloured metallic green external and metallic blue internal. I haven’t done anything to the underside of the driver cover as this won’t be seen and should be fine once painted with Mr Hobby Duck Egg Green similar to the hatch, paint it OD and I’m thinking I may make a damaged hatch pad…may be.
It has been a couple of weeks since my last post, life getting in the way of more important things like modelling.
I have completed the interior to the extent that shall be visible, I have made a black that sits in the main compartment but neglected to take any photos of it. The colour is Hr Hobby Duck Egg Green and weathered with very dilute Vallejo black acrylic, dilute black, and sepia inks with Mig Vietnam earth pigments. The scuff marks are metallic based markers and graphite pencil. The main compartment floor was painted silver weathered and highlighted with a graphite pencil. I didn’t remove the injector pin mark on the back of the driver’s seat mount as this area will not be seen once it is closed up.
I am currently working on the exterior and other than Jason Miller’s (Arms Corps Models) excellent Aust M113 engine deck and a mod to the trim vane it is out of the box so I will post when this is near completion.
Very nice work and yes FC quality can be very hit and miss, usually what I’ve ordered has been the later sadly so I tend to avoid them now.
One point is the driver seat support is mounted too high the top bracket should siy on the top of the sponson the lower one fits further down.
