The following few posts will set the scene for a build log that I am going to undertake. It’s a bit long as I tend to be verbose, I mean wordy, or at least circumlocutory, but sometimes overly tautologous……anyway, grab a snifter or a jug of something nice and please read through this scene setter.
This is going to be my first attempt at a build log/step by step. I will be building a 1/35 scale Mercedes 170 VK which is pulled from the Masterbox MB35151 ‘Urgent Dispatch’ kit. I’m not building the figures or horse from the kit at this stage.
Why this model? I’ve chosen this as it is fairly standard in terms of complexity but not too basic. As well as which there are loads of online build logs for tracked WW2 vehicles but fewer on subjects like this car.
Furthermore I like to support Ukrainian modelling companies where possible. I like the ranges that companies like ICM, Dan models, Miniart and Masterbox provide. Their continued efforts to release new kits, often unique offerings, during a period of incredible pressure and stress for their country is nothing short of fantastic.
Why do a build log? I’m not being forced into this, although @Uncle-Heavy did make some veiled threats about my family if I didn’t, so if it means I get to see the kids again then I’ll do it!
Although this is out of my comfort zone, I want to give something back to the forum. I very much appreciate the kindness with which I’ve been met since joining and want to repay that in some small way. If something I do helps someone to enjoy the hobby more, even if it’s watching my feeble efforts and them getting more self confidence from that, then I’m happy.
I’ve used various build logs from this forum and others, to help improve my skills but with a long way to go. Almost all are invaluable. This build likely won’t end up being amazing but will hopefully be acceptable.
I see so many amazing finished models being posted on this and other modelling sites without seeing the steps to get the final result. I’d love to see more of you who have such amazing talent throw in a build log or even just a step by step on a particular part (eg: how to paint and weather tracks, how to enhance onboard equipment or how to apply Zimmerit) of the process. I know it would help all of us and would be greatly appreciated!
Throughout this log please feel free to weigh in with advice or suggestions. I’ll gratefully accept all advice. I can’t guarantee I can use it all but I’ll try.
With my skill level I want to emphasise this is not a definitive or ‘best of’ build. This build will reflect my level of modelling experience and my limitations. Speaking of limitations;
I don’t use an air brush (no space);
I don’t use special glues (only cheap super glue);
I make a lot of fiddly bits (handles etc…) out of wire or whatever I can find rather than buying aftermarket products;
I’m currently going through some medical stuff which means I have good weeks where I get stuff done and bad weeks where I can’t use my hands or brain no work no good. This sort of slows the build down a bit;
My workspace is a quarter of the dinner table so I can’t have too many projects at once or spread out;
I get distracted easil….ooh look a Wombat!
I don’t have as polished a construction or painting/weathering process as most of you who is more gooder than I is;
I don’t always follow the steps of the kit instructions as they’re laid out. Sometimes I’ll work on an out of sequence element just because;
Did I mention this is my first attempt at a step by ste……ooh look a Spotted Tail Quoll!
I often glue my fingers together or put glue globs everywhere which gets my fur all matted; and,
I’m an absolute tight a&@e who doesn’t like to spend money even when I should, which sort of explains most of the previous points!
But to counter all that, I enjoy the heck out of this fantastic hobby of scale modelling!!
So, before the build, the following background to the Mercedes 170 VK is from a range of sources including Wikipedia, the Mercedes Benz website, various modelling sites and historical vehicle websites.
The Mercedes-Benz W136 was Mercedes-Benz’s range of inline-four cylinder vehicles from the mid-1930s to the 1950s. One of that range was the 170 V. First released in February 1936 and built until 1943, then after WWII the 170 V was produced again for some years. Between 1936 and 1939 the 170 V was Mercedes’ top selling model.
The ‘V’ in the 170 V’s name was an abbreviation of ‘Vorn motor’ (trans. front engine) to differentiate from the rear-engined 170 H being developed around the same time which itself was an abbreviation for ‘Heck motor’ (trans. rear engine) that used the same four cylinder engine but at the back of the car.
So, why does this matter and why am I blathering on about the 170 V? Read on!
Using the 170 V as the base, in 1938 the 170 VK was developed and tailored for the German police as well as the military. The VK was an abbreviation for ‘Vorn Kubelwagen’ to reflect the ‘V’ base model and the ‘K’, for Kubelsitzwagen (Kubelsitzwagen contracted to Kubelwagen contracted to Kubel trans. ‘bucket seats’ or ‘tub’ car) body on the new variant.
The 170 VK was a simpler vehicle than the 170 V, and with a longer wheelbase. Keeping the 170 V’s original front end including the engine, the 170 VK had short, diagonally cut doors and room for four people comfortably. The choice of build materials was also different from the 170 V with a slightly reinforced chassis and body shell for improved protection. The body of the 170VK was a wooden frame covered with either sheet aluminium or a 5cm thick compressed fibre and glue board.
Ground clearance was raised a certain amount to allow fitting of all-terrain tyres, but not enough to make this a serious off roader. The suspension was modified to improve handling on rough terrain and ride firmness. The reliable 170 V engine was kept the same in the 170 VK although the electrics were upgraded to 12v. Some variants of the 170 VK had mounts for machine guns on a bar across the vehicle body between the front and rear seats.
The 170 VK was built from November 1938 until September 1942 with overall production totalling 19,075 units. The 170 VK was built in three main body variants; ‘Kfz 1’ (four-seater, four-door), ‘Kfz 2’ (three-seater, three-door radio car) and ‘Kfz 3’ (four-seater, four-door with rear insert/boot/trunk that could be used, for example, for cable reels).
The three main 170 VK usage variants were; standard four seat transport sedan, three seat radio car and four seat vehicle for mechanical support or telegraph service (rolling out/in phone cables or transporting mechanics tasked with minor, rapid repairs to with minimal equipment).
The 170 VK was predominantly deployed on the Russian front with smaller numbers used in all other theatres where German forces fought. A very small number were used in North Africa. The low ground clearance though, in comparison to equivalent vehicles like the Kubelwagen 82 which could use ‘balloon’ sand tyres, meant the 170 VK was restricted in that theatre to areas with passable, solid roads thus reducing usefulness.
Generally the main users of the 170 VK were officers and NCO of Wehrmacht ground forces. It wasn’t issued for use by us unwashed masses what don’t talk proper but sir we only want a bit of relief for the aching plates of meat! The 170 V and VK were not intended for senior commanders of the Wehrmacht or SS, who used other (more luxurious !) Mercedes-Benz models, such as the W31, W131, 540K, G4, 770, 770 K, WOr and W150 models.
As an aside, the 170 V sedan, being seen as a more ‘polished’ vehicle, was mainly used around Germany and central Europe by the Luftwaffe, mid level government officials, shore based Kriegsmarine elements and the police who used the V even though the VK was originally designed for the military and police.
170VK specifications
Engine: Inline 4 Cylinder
Displacement: 1,697 CC
Output: 38 HorsePower
Transmission: 4 Speed Manual, 1 reverse
Top Speed: 90kmh
The Mercedes 170 V and 170 VK have been released in model form by a range of manufacturers since the early 1990’s. Apart from Miniart and Masterbox, the other offerings are mainly resin models in 1/35 scale although there are some 1/72 scale available. Miniart and Masterbox have the most recent releases and the widest ranges, which are in 1/35 scale.
The 170 VK was first released in (I believe) late 2010 or early 2011 by Masterbox after being promoted for release from 2006. Masterbox now have a couple of variants on the market as well as a small range of 170 V. These come as individual vehicles or as sets with figures. Miniart focused instead on releasing a quite wide range of only 170 V, from military to civilian vehicles and including the ‘Lieferwagen’ (panel van and flat bed) variants.
The Kit - MB 35151
The kit comes in the standard Masterbox cardboard box which is fine. I usually take everything out of the box once I get started so if the kit arrives undamaged then the box is not an issue for me. Sprues are in good shape and there is an acceptably small amount of flash to clean up. The tyres are rubber but look quite clean and don’t have a seam on the tread unlike most kits with rubber tyres. The instructions are easy to read and fulsome. Only quibble is the decals don’t come with a corresponding colour scheme or unit allocation.
And here are the sprue photos as everyone else seems to do it;
Check acetone free nail polish remover.
Most types/brands contain ethyl acetate, check the contents label, which is an excellent solvent for styrene plastics.
This stuff works best when used with capillary action so the process is “backwards” compared to glues.
Hold the parts together (take all the time you need to get everything aligned, arrange for clamping if needed, make sure the joint is tight and fit is good et.c.) and then apply a small amount of solvent/remover to the edge of the joint using a small (tiny) paint brush. Capillary action will suck the solvent/remover into the joint. The solvent softens the plastic and “welds” it together. The very small volume of solvent will evaporate quickly and the joint holds after less than a minute, full strength takes longer. Super glue hardens faster but it is often messy (glued fingers, glue mess outside the joint et.c.).
Eek!! Well it’s a very courageous choice mate, as a near-neighbour I’ll gladly make myself available if you end up requiring therapy to get you through. I attempted this kit seven years ago, by mid-way through the build this is how I felt about it…
Coincidentally I brush-painted mine, mainly because it wasn’t worth the cost of electricity for the airbrush. Somewhere buried in the old Armorama site is my accompanying build text, I dimly remember (I’d repressed the experience but now I’m regressing) that there’s a dearth of positive locating points like pins & tabs, and silly-fragility – indeed the Milli Vanilli of kits.
But hey ignore my opinion, brekinapez made a decent fist of it…
First step is the engine. I’ll probably have an open bonnet so will make the full engine.
Straight off I’ve noticed that there’s no numbers on the sprues. There is a reference page in the instructions to correlate parts to numbers but a part number on the sprue would be nice.
Starting photo is a classic scene. The first tentative steps of someone’s first time……I mean first build log in case you got the wrong impression!
In between some of the parts are little ‘blobs’ (see photo below) that need to be sanded off to get a smooth fit. Also test fitting is necessary as some of the locking pins have flash on them so need to be trimmed.
