Has anyone used a hairdryer to modify vinyl tracks as to represent the sag? To heat the tracks, and when they cool down, they remain sagged?
Thanks!
The danger with heating vinyl, styrene and other thermoplastics is that
tensions created by the moulding process can be released by the heat.
When the material gets hot enough to take on a new shape it is very
close to the temperature where all tensions are loosened and the
heated part turns into something painted by Salvador Dali …
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I have a replica of this painting in front of my apartment!
I also wondered if plastic (tank hull) might deform along with the tracks…
i just feel i would avoid this, or try it on a spare track
Yes, I think Robin’s right - best not to dabble. I’d either use Superglue to stick the part of the track to the roadwheels to effect a sag, or even the old, old method of inserting a strip of plastic: tuck it in to where you wish the sag to take effect, then try and disguise with dark paint. A bit primitive I know but better than the Dali effect(!)
It is ALWAYS a good idea to test new techniques on something unimportant first.
I tried heating the stiff tracks on Tamiyas M21 halftrack, …
it didn’t turn out the way I wanted, 20 years later someone produced resin tracks …
The track can be tied down with sewing thread if it is a tank where the track hangs on return rollers (Pz IV) or lies on top of the road wheels (Panther, Pz V).
Use a sewing needle to pull the thread through the track in some hidden or less visible part (mud and dirt can hide a LOT). Pull the thread through the track on both sides of the road wheel or the return roller. Tie the threads under the wheel axle. Pull the knot tighter until the track sags the way you want. Secure the knot with a small drop of CA when the sag is “right”.
It will take some experimenting to get the threads in the right position.
On the models where I have done this I pulled the threads through the tracks at the return rollers at approximately the 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock positions of the return roller.
The downward pull at two adjacent return rollers will create a nice sag between the rollers. Experimenting is risk free, the small holes created by the thread will close be themselves and they are barely visible, weathering/mud/dirt will hide them completely.
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I just tried it on academy vinyl track. Isolated from the tank.
The track remained slightly bent. I will give it a try!
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The other alternative is using pins. Offer up the tracks, mark where you want them to lie, then drill holes in the hull and push pins in to hold the track down (you can cut them short to help hide them and make sure they are a snug fit in the holes). Camouflage with mud or WHY after fitting. It’s another old school method. I’ve used it on a Tamiya Pz III L and you can’t see them after finishing.
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