HATAKA paints

Howdy friends and neighbors in this neck of the woods,

Recently I bought the HATAKA paint set U.S. Army MAASTER and dual-tex.

My philsophy is to use the appropriate thiner of the company!

Normally I use Tamiya paints and the spray job is always great! Being it very thin, or as used for wide areas 65% paint to 35% thinner! I never faced any problems with the IWATA HP-C Plus and the Custom Micron C with Tamiya paints!

But HATAKA paints are a pain in the a…!

I diluted the HATAKA paints in several mixes with their thinner. The result either spider webs or the needle got clogged! I added retarder, Gunze and Tamiya, okay the needle didn’t got after five seconds but after 25/30 seconds the needle was clogged again!

Advices and helpful hints are highly appreciated! Throwing the paints into the dustbin will be the final stage!



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Hataka has three types of paint: acrylic for brushing, acrylic for airbrushing and lacquer.
You may have probably read this before using them, but just in case:


If you have used the acrylic range with Gunze/Tamiya (lacquer) retarder, it may not work.

Hi varanusk,

thanks for your answer!

As I’m a acrylics addicted I had selected the so-called “Red Line” “optimised for airbrush”! And quite sure I always combine acrylic products exclusevely with acrylic products. So the Tamiya / Gunze retarders are for acrylics!

What’s the trick with HATAKA paints?

Tamiya/Gunze acrylic is not the same as Hataka acrylic.
Tamiya and Gunze are alcohol based while Hataka is water based hence you add Tamiya or Gunze thinner to Hataka you tend to end up with a mess and vis-versa. The thinners for one type will not work with the other. I’ve had no problem on the other hand using Lifecolor thinner with Vallejo and Hataka.

Hataka (acrylic), Lifecolor, Vallejo, Ammo, Gunze Aqueous are water based.

Tamiya, Gunze Mr Color are alcohol based
There are others in both camps but these are the ones that come straight to mind. I stick to the water based ones but you do need to add a drop of retarder when airbrushing.

Note; Gunze has two different acrylic lines.

Agree with Littorio above, although both are labelled as acrylics, they are different types.

Maybe adding Vallejo Flow Improver or a similar product will avoid the tip clogging.

Great guys!

Thanks for the answer! And thanks for the tip using Vallejo Flow Improver!

I’ll gonna try it and you’ll be informed of the outcome!




Boleslav v. Stranski
Oberst und IA
7. Panzerdivision!

I also tried Hataka red line paint for my Leopard 2A5 model (polish colors) but finally all paints and the Hataka thinner was wasted. No own or other thinners, flow improver, praise helped. I do not know what formula they have, it is not for this real world IMHO.
I used AK Real Colors instead but now decided to return to Gunze Mr Hobby or Tamiya airbrushing and Valleo/Mig/AK for brush painting.
Hataka simply does not work for me.

Hi Agriamodelingen,

what I hear from you is not preferable for having a good day!

Of my comrades in the Sparverein Biene modeler’s club, the famous “savings association bee”, all of them military modelers, must focused on WWII, themes mixed armies, and the Cold War, Modern fraction.

All had warned me to get the HATAKA set! As the HATAKA sets cover the interests of a great number of modelers, they appeared to me very promising!

Final verdict: A gravely wrong assessment of the situation!

I should had followed a different approach and should had bought alcohol for € 27.00.

The result would had been a great morale booster fo the members of Sparverein Biene!

Thanks for your advices!



Boleslav v. Stranski
Oberst und IA
7. Panzerdivision