And here I am, sharing my first project on this forum: a Land Rover Defender of His Majesty Coastguard. I recently came across some pictures and loved the livery. I’m planning a small vignette inspired by the picture below.
Given the limited number of Defender kits available, I will be using the 1/35 Hobby Boss kit, straight OOB. Obviously not the right version, but I care more about the livery, and the kit is the closest to the ones in use, from what I’ve seen online. The only element I’d like to add is the emergency lights at the top; if anybody has a suggestion for an aftermarket option, I’ll take it!
Some progress here! I’m done with the underbody. Putting together the transmission shafts was a bit finicky, so I changed the order of a couple steps to make sure the engine lined up well with the parts of the transmission.
I dabbed Tamiya Putty on the châssis to give it some texture, based on an idea by Nighshift on YouTube. I like the result, although it’s admittedly a bit messy.
I didn’t spend time detailing the engine since it will be hidden.
You can achieve similar results with just Tamiya glue/airbrush cleaner. Apply and stipple with an old brush just like the putty. I have had good success on 1/35 kits might be a “cleaner” method for you.
What’s more important is getting the engine and radiator to line up with the fenders. (wings)
I‘ve built several of these and usually leave the engine a little loose. As the radiator connects to the engine, and also the fenders, it is the most critical piece in mounting correctly, otherwise the rear of the fenders may not fit against the door frame well. There have been a few complaints online about the fit in that area, but if you’re carful, it’s not an issue. I have even built several with no engine just to save time.
For $5.00 you can get any number of 1/32 police cars, usually in some sort of Asian livery, with excellent light bars. I’ve used them for Iraqi police vehicles.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I did consider not putting the engine in, and I should have gone with my gut feeling! I’m considering buying a couple more boxes of this model since I have several ideas, and what I’m learning with this one will be beneficial! (I’ve also been out of the modeling business for a while, so a learning curve it is!)
All the sub-assemblies are done! There are many, for I’m a hand brush painter and the kit was engineered in such a way that I felt many parts would become inaccessible if I had assembled more elements together. Some small elements and tools will be painted on the sprue.
I only added a couple upgrades. The first is a panel line between the roof and the rest of the body, made out of 0.5 mm plastic rod from Evergreen. While the British Army Wolf didn’t have one, most other hard top variants did, making it a characteristic feature; the illustration on the box even shows one!
Oh, I see now, thank you very much for your explanations.
I think I should say that the reference photos from the website I shared are more for general guidance. I’m not trying to go for a replica, but more so for an “inspired by”. I don’t feel confident enough yet to get my hands dirty with what I feel is too advanced for me.
So, for the tread plates, while the car in the picture does have them, it’s not standard. I’ve been looking at many pictures of those LR used by the coastguard, and there are many variations around a central theme. I considered adding them, but didn’t want to scrape all the details on the front of the car, which I really like since it makes it visually more interesting.
As for the body, I see what you mean, and while I think it wouldn’t be too hard, I like the 110 version as it is, even though the 90 chassis seems more common in the Coastguard.
Again, thanks a lot for your suggestions. It’s really appreciated.
No, it’s not. I just didn’t know if you noticed it. It’s been used on other variants as well. I bought the Accurate - Armour tread plate to make a Snatch Rover from the same base vehicle you’re using. It has the tread plate on the hood as well.
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