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Do Wah Diddy Diddy…
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This is what we want: 1:35 Figures like these!!!
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Only if we can get the EM-50 to go with them!
http://inthedriversseatwithozzie.com/2015/05/em-50-urban-assault-vehicle-gmc/#.YT--jMCs_Ds
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Now that… with some figures is a must build for a Cold War vignette! … Be still, my imagination!
—mike
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Meanwhile, back to the F.O.R.D.A.S.S. (Found On Road Dead Ambulance Shelter Shiznit)…
I just couldn’t have an open hood without some ignition wires showing — unless, maybe someone pulled 'em? 
Nah, not convincing. So here’s my quick wiring-up session. 
Step 1: Drill holes in head-covers. Niiiice with the new carbide drill bits!
Step 2: Insert UTC Ultra Wire (MED, 28 gauge, 0.0126") using CA glue and swab connections with Zap, Zip Kicker (liquid w/pump variety).
Step 3: Bend wires into general direction of distributor location.
In this case, just shove ‘em down into the fan housing! Guaranteed to scare the piss outa’ any lounging cats! 
Cheers!
—mike
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Hi guys! Not a whole lot to show for today. However, I managed to check off a few leftover details. To avoid constructing a “ship in a bottle” so to speak, I popped-off the cab doors with a little help from a pry-bar (only painted in position). Then, I easily installed the seat-cushions, door panels, and steering column. … Reminder to self: 4 pieces of window glass need to be installed. 
Thought I’d start brainstorming a method of supporting the hood (bonnet) in the open position — just a Blu-Tak spring mechanism for now!
To be continued…
—mike
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Mike,
Here
you can see my solution, when I built the standard V3000S/SSM 3 years ago:
- a brass tube glued inside the hood,
- two cutouts in the sides of cabins front end- it is there where the tube rolls when hood is opened,
HTH
Cheers,
Angel
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A workable hood… nice! Thank’s for the suggestion. BTW: Nice fenders as well.
Earlier-on, I was able to do some more research and found some 1938–1939 Ford truck hood (bonnet) hinges. I might take a shot at scratch-building something like them. That way the hood (bonnet) should sit in an arced-upward position. I can recall these finger-slicers from the old beaters that we worked on. If I decide to go that route, static open with a hint of hinge should be fine. … Or, I might become unhinged and zip everything up and be done with it.
we’ll see.
In the meantime both my airbrushes are all cleaned-up and they’re giving me the stink-eye again. 
Cheers!
—mike
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Yesterday and today’s effort… or how to avoid masking red crosses on the big white box! 
Anyway, I checked off some more of the piddly to do items. 
Why does painting engine assemblies in situ remind me of figure painting? 
Factory fresh paint? That’ll never pass inspection by the “Weathering Police!”
Soiled by the mere thought of "inspection!"
Paint Callouts:
• Engine/Transmission: Vallejo Afrikacorps Tank Crew (70.336)
• Valve Covers: Vallejo Light Grey (71.050)
• Hoses: Vallejo Black (71.057)
• Exhaust: Vallejo Light Rust (70.301)
• Weathering Wash: Vallejo Black Shade Wash (73.201)
Not thrilled with the over-soiled air filter canister — gotta’ go back and redo that. 
Hope everyone is staying healthy!
—mike
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Do the hinges Mike - C’mon - you know you want to… ( insert Devil whispering in ear )
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Looking good Mike, open the window it’s a-chuggin’ already. Hmm the Meteorolocops will probably only be watching that the apparent age/experience of the engine matches the bodywork’s, if the hood will be up. And talking of that hinge (hey Richard started it!) I was wondering if there was usually a rod to hold up the front end when open…which might allow enough extra support for a super-small/in-scale pivot, maybe a single item centrally fixed to the top of the firewall? I doubt much of it would be visible (& you could cunningly disguise what is) if your hood’s going to be at around 45°. My only other thought (yeah I know two in one day’s really buzzin’) is that unless you’re OCD about opening & closing things, does it need to be a workable hinge at all? 
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Tim, Sure, blame Richard! I believe you guys have conspired to drive me over the edge… well, maybe just a tiny bit. I actually made that deal with the “Detail Devil” last night.
He already stole your “cunningly disguised” bent pin in the firewall idea. And no movable OCD stuff either — the hood (bonnet) should list to stern at approx. 30°. 
Thank’s for the comments!
—mike
ah yes the ol’ BPITF Ploy as I surmised. No worries, your secret’s absolutely safe with me 
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The easiest way to avoid them is to use decals… (Duck)
Seriously though, I have heard these are very good:
Or something more local:
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Looking really great Mike I can smell the oil from here.
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Quack! 
Well, that didn’t work. … Archer does have high quality products. However, the large “racing stripes” on the curvy hood and shelter roof will still need to be masked and painted. The good news: I think I’ve got a good color match for that: Vallejo Scarlet (70.817). Further testing needed. As far as the supplied ICM decal sheet, they actually look pretty good for the medium (side) crosses.
Just hope I didn’t smoke the rings! 
Cheers!
—mike
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For the life of me, I never understood why they did not use 'Sir Robin’s crest instead of the cross…
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